r33_racer

his new gtr shane? Old mates imkaos or whatever it was? What does it rev too? Im still in america, some people dont get my messages for some reason.

man ive been missing out here. Gone a few weeks and everything happens. Nice power rockabilly, but thats alot of boost! Old mate in NZ reckons he can rev out his twin cam 30's to 10k and reckons they will last.

im sending this message from a internet kesiok in fiji airport at nadi. ddont ever come here, its lame and scary and huumid. alwauys take a direct flight to wherever your going and dont detour tto fiji. If anyone reads this, send help straight away,, they are hutning uus!!!!!!!!!!!! lol hopefully illl mke it to amerrica. ccyaaaaaaaaaaa.....

awesome news brad! Kyle was talking about doing a stroker conversion kit for the rb30's to bring it up to 3.3 or 3.4 litres also. But that was a little while ago. If youve got it going already thats great.' I think we will be due to build a new race motor in the new year when we get back from the states. Depending on price, I could con my father into a stroked rb30 if its not too exxy.

always balance everything that goes up and down and round and round. Might as clean up the crank too while there, any dags and casting marks clean it up and get it slippery smooth.

1st-->2nd problem here too, cant ever get a smooth change, well not as smooth as the other gears.

They seem to be good enough for street cars and low/mild track cars....we used the lower control arms for our r33 and ran out of adjustment and also found the balljoint was at the wrong angle, as soon as we went past -3 degrees of camber the balljoint bound up and wouldnt turn....had to modify the suckers so we could get a descent amount of adjustment out of them. After using their lower control arms and finding how limited they were in adjustment, it makes me wonder just how 'good' their stuff really is, maybe im just more the type who would rather make their own stuff to suit the situation. Check to see how much adjustability they offer before you buy them. For a street/road car application im sure it would be good enough.

as far as i know acl dont make them...however they do make custom pistons i think...so unless that engine builder got them made to suit the conversion especially for that job? That is possible.

simon i believe he is referring to calaisturbo.com. all the vl bogans.

Congratulations on the effort fellas and the placing. You now know you can mix it with the best there and come out pretty damn good. Top effort

A short block assembly normally refers to the bottom end only. A long block is block and head assembly. As far as im aware, physically all the rb30 blocks are the same.

cost us about 1g for our transmission bloke to strip, inspect, replace and put back together the box, including the parts also. So I guess you could assume around that much or there abouts.

I keep spotting shanes r32gtr in my parents backyard....weird!

Wouldnt worry at all about it. Ive made, fitted and used homemade spacers before, fitted my own tyres and wheels with no dramas ever. With your new ones which look like they centre the wheel and locate it perfectly, with the nuts just holding the wheel to the spacer you should be fine. If your that worried, im not sure if they make such a thing, but get a set of nyloc wheel nuts which cant undo. If the wheels are alloy, which im assuming they are cause no one uses steel rims anymore, the alloy itself acts like a springwasher and the nuts really bite in hard when you do them up.

ie. fords and holdens! Geoff would know, cause there would be a set on his xr8 uterus

The box will shit it in for that kind of work. Our std rb25 box behind our 25/30 with a gt35r lasted a good year and abit of circuit racing before it destroyed 4th gear syncho. That was with about 400rwkws going through it. Our ppg box so far has lasted about 8-9 months this year with no dramas, only dog ring wear from inexperienced users. If it is an old std box, it might be worth your while to get it recoe'd with new synchros and bearings and a good check over. That will give it its best shot at lasting.

I remember paying about the same for new ones for my old 180sx when i had that. You can try the performance drifting places, that sell extended tie rods for more lock and all that crap. Maybe they have std replacement ones or something?

s13_skyline_inside: Normally out of the back of the waterpump you can T a line off there to direct it to the waterfeed for the turbo. Either that or drill a hole and weld a fitting on the outlet of the inlet manifold were the water goes to the radiator and direct it from there. Doesnt std rb26 have one feed that splits into two. one for each turbo, but from the block somewhere?

Overpriced in comparison to what exactly? The chinese shit like almost every manifold out there or even the japanese stuff which isnt that great either.

what about that mr2 with the jet turbines in it! That was insane. So much torque, it twisted the chassis!

penis!

teins to bilsteins here....with matched spring rates for both semi slicks and full slicks. A massive improvement was found in times straight off.

if the head is pitted, warped/not perfectly flat....You shave the head so it has a flat face for a new headgasket to seal. Generally when rebuilding a motor, you shave the head in which they only take off what they need inorder to get it flat, same with the block. Unless your building a wild motor with custom pistons/rods and you need to deck the block to achieve a desired CR and squish area. A smaller area for the same air/fuel to be squeezed into results in a bigger/powerful bang equals more power...however it can also make it more prone to preignition.

Shaneypoo...i measured with my stick roughly 3.2m for main hoop, 2.4m for each A pillar. So rounded out to 3.5m and 2.5m x 2 so thats 8.5m plus whatever you want in the 45mm for the back. I reckon 10m worth of the big shit...and the rest in the small shit and then we be jamming?

our dog box used to set off the knock sensors something fierce before we changed to sm4. Like said earlier on, its not always the engine sometimes outside noises can set them off even when there is no detonation.