r33_racer

you can use rb26 mains....as i said previously, you groove the block to suit and then you can take advantage of the extra oil feeds per bearing. we have used kings in two race motors so far...both with no problems. 1 racing mile = 1000 road miles. That should give a rough idea of how much extra wear and tear goes into a race motor as opposed to a street car. In one event during a day you would do equivalent to roughly 15,000miles of wear.

I have to admit having three pick ups from the sump and none from the back of the head is alot easier and tidier. But if you had the head return already from a wet sump setup and converting to dry sump, rather then removing it, it can be simplier just to connect that line to one of the scavenges. Either way works fine, it just depends on preference i guess. I believe peterson suggest two coolers as the ideal option, one before motor and one after. I would also filter the oil before it goes to the cooler, helps stop any crap from getting caught up in it, as they are pretty well impossible to get perfectly clean. Ive said it before...but make sure you use the inline filters on every scavenge point! Thats a must, if you dont want to do it, refer back to my ballbearing in peterson pump gear thread.

I would put the oil cooler inline after the filter before the oil enters the engine. Ideally you would have a cooler before engine, and then one before it goes to the tank.

use king rb26 bearings...and get your machine shop to groove the mains so you can use the gtr bearings, so you get that better oil feed.

yeh..thats alot of horsepower regardless. I think a to4z maybe a little laggy for track work...but then again i guess it depends on the track your racing on.

ally bushes ftw!

which rods had what centres? Ive built rb30dets with both argo and spool rods and never knew about there being two different heights available.

im up for it....however ive never dance battled before....im a virgin You can break me in eh?

ZING!

you wanna dance battle me???? is that right?

stay outta my suburb col! I rule everton park/ enoggera areas....

wow..an rb20 into an s13 chassis....that is so 5 years ago. Surely thats not original anymore?

the silver shit aint too good with high continuous heat...however the high temp black seems to handle it the best. Our dump pipe was originally done in the silver ceramic coating....two race meetings and it was gone. I would hate to see what happens to it on a manifold.

if only i could hear it...no speakers on comps at work...im going off everyone elses info haha.

9000rpm rules any motor if the idiot wants it to survive for any real length of time, especially if he is actually racing it on/off at track/drags. Doesnt matter how 'built' it is. A small capacity 4 would do it easier and have half a chance of surviving, something with a big bore and short stroke.

ill race it...regardless what motor it has in it. On the track ofcourse.

pretty sure mark and russells gtr which at the time had about 380kws ran a 10.2 @ something stupidly fast. To say a 350kw gtr struggles to do sub 11s is a joke, if its not then the driver is.

what if its what you want? regardless of anything else.

haha busy sat night....why is that? Blame my old man peoples!

I was sure you required a full cage to race at top gear....but then one weekend there was a bloudy pretty well stock gtr with no cage and he was out there running with the rest of us...so yeh im not sure what the go is now. Probably best to check with qr about that to get the latest news on it.

I would have to work out the speeds for our gearing with what wheels were on it...but i normally hold fourth through turn 1 and 2....hitting about 220-230 down the front straight(in 5th) and just float between brake and accel between 1 and 2 and then depending on track into third or keep going and into 5th for national. You guys must be going soon, or atleast the car being sent over. Good luck with it all mate, im sure you two are going to flog em!

good ole ARE....get dru to weld it up...will look fricken schmick.

cheers mate. thanks for that.

Im looking for someone or someplace in australia or overseas if needed, who have k type thermocouples that i can use to mount in my exhaust manifold to monitor each cylinder for tuning purposes. Ive rang around and cant find anyone yet, maybe someone on here has had more luck before? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

what turbo or turbos are you running bunta?