r33_racer

Like geoff said, but also have the main gallery end plugs removed and tapped for grubscrews also. You would be suprised as to how much gunk they pull out of the main oil gallery in the block. If your real serious get it done for the head too. Normally all this is only done on race engines, so when it blows and you rebuild again its easier to just remove all the plugs and clean it all out.

So noel if everything goes well today should we expect a full tune done? I sure hope so.

1st Rb30det blew from loss of oil on track due to sandwich plate fitting snapping off from vibrations. 2nd Rb30det blew from insufficient big end and main bearing clearances, which consequently blew the turbo from bearing metal clogging up the oil feed. All done on the race track. Learnt my lesson with what clearances to run for a race engine.

funny i know of some r33's that are pretty quick. But i do agree they arent the best looking skyline available. Weird how some people call them land barges when they can be made to not only go fast but handle well also. Fark they make family sedans handle well and go fast. I guess you just need to be in the know.

wait yeh...27mm sounds better haha. i know where i got 32mm from haha stupid speedflow fittings and not having proper 1 1/4" spanner.

depends on how good your rattle gun is and air supply... You should be able to do it with a normal breaker bar with 32mm socket i think from memory, if flywheel is on, use a screwdriver between teeth and the dowel on the block for the gbox. If no flywheel, put two bolts into the flywheel holes and put screwdriver between those two to hold the crank from turning while someone else undoes the crank bolt. Then a puller to get the balancer off the crank.

+1 with what Adriano said.

yeh...for sure. One day my avatar will be me in front of you haha(*dreams*)

yeh good ole john loves spiting me.

HA! i knew it, its the nissan throttle body thats making the toyota so fast!

if you use an n1 oil pump, change the relief spring to a std rb25 one or rb20 one. Something that runs a lower relief pressure, the n1 pump will provide way too much pressure and you will suffer like cubes said.

wow...im suprised your on here buddy. this is my territory...you cant come on here in nissan country. I dont hang out on supra forums and what not. but its true...id rather be beaten by a nissan then a toyota.

you have pm mate!

1000hp ATI damper here.

we run the hoosier semi's and dunlop full slicks. Depends what we can get at the time. Yeh johns car did a 54.3 on full slicks on the sprint track at the last top gear day. Reckons he still has more in it...i hope hes lieing.

you should get a new bosch z32 afm...they are way cheaper and with plug. get a 6boost manifold...gonna do it, do it right! I suppose depends if your build is budget or quality.

if your still free and in the country...come whoop all our asses in rd3 of the state championships! 29th and 30th september. I would rather be beaten by another nissan then a stupid toyota.

i think id rather the 750bhp 25/30...would be a step up from the 600bhp 25/30.... being different is nice if your a show pony and thats your thing. If your a racer...a true racer then practicality, power/torque is what matters. Its easier to make good reliable power out of a 26-25/30 then it is a 26, 25 20 and most certainly sr or ca. Thats probably the order in which they would go....however sr20 and rb20 are debateable. The four bangers seem to work well and are popular in drifting, however i always see shitloads of rbs out there. Funnily enough out of the few people i know that do drift either have rb25's or 30dets.

exactly the reason why i insist on the base...i would need a major stash of cans to get that one right and a butt load of time.

i didnt think having a slow sr powered skyline is cool. Unless slow cars with small engines are considered cool nowadays?

25/30..going to do it, do it right. You will love it. keep your head. Sell your bottom end for a few hundred. Pick up a rb30 for 100 bux. cheaper can be found easy enough. depending on power, forged spool rods for like 800-900bux should pull it up or can use standards, forged pistons for like 1350. new bearings maybe 120, thats mains and big ends. headgasket for like 200 or less. Just machining($1000) and assembly(fark knows, never paid anyone to assemble a motor before) required. Exhaust will need to be modified, and ic piping, if using std inlet you might need to drop the crossmember down a little with some spacers or raise the bonnet. There is a little bit of work involved, but if your not afraid to turn some spanners and get your hands dirty, not only can you save some money you might learn something.

a dyno day will be awesome.....i would come to that...race car and all.

probably a shitload of power. last motor was making 600bhp with a dayco belt. Id imagine that gates would make one of those super duper blue ones sometime to suit if there is a demand for it.

go geoff! go geoff! Glad im always on your side buddy haha.

i dont think that works mate...you can use a 25box behind the rb20...but the 25 box is slightly longer and you just need to make up a bracket to weld onto the std crossmember so it picks up the original holes. Two of the std one will line up and the bracket will let you reach the other two.