r33_racer

see told you i had heard it somewhere...probably in the million threads spoken of. Im sure if your engine was actually seeing 0 oil pressure, your bottom end would be ticking away rather insanely.

pump could be on its way out. Does the gauge consistently read like that everytime you drive or does it fluctuate or jump around. Sometimes a faulty sender unit can cause that misconception...however i havent really seen one yet, only heard.

yeh i would be aiming for 9:1 but 8.8 would be close enough i guess. Alot of time when you work it out it could be out by .2 either way especially if the chambers are not cc'd and just guessing based off std info. If you have your piston spec sheet, you should be able to work it out with the calculator. Just play with the values until you get what you want and then you will know whether you wanna change gasket or machine.

Johnson Transmissions 2/ 38 Terrence Rd Brendale (07) 3889 7757 He has done several gearboxs and diffs for us for both road and race cars. Old chap, been doing it all his life, knows his shit. But depends on where your located too. Someone close by is always good. Just a note he did a locked two way diff and a tomei 1.5 in our race car and hes rebuilt three rb25 boxes for us. 2 std and 1 dogbox.

Depends on application. Alot of people use the headgasket as a way of achieving their desired comp ratio, which i dont think is the best way to go because you stuff up your squish. Really you should be using the pistons and machining to achieve what you want and keeping a similiar sized gasket to achieve a good squish of 40-50 thou. Its all based on everyones own personal opinion. Need to be careful how much you deck too, alot of builders dont like the piston protruding out of the bore and into the chamber/gasket a great deal. Plus piston to valve clearance and blah blah blah. More then meets the eye. Find out roughly what your chamer cc's up to and put in your piston specs and whatnot into the calculator and work it out. But first what cr do you want to achieve?

i believe the willowbank website mentioned something about making a decision tomorrow morning whether its on or off. Can only pray now.

awesome...well for the cage im assuming that andra has a rule book like cams and in it they would have various designs that would comply to their specs and you can build one and then get it checked and approved. Thats how we did it for our cage, picked one design out of the cams book and built it and got it complied. I guess same goes for the design guidelines from tpt. Which should take any guess work out of it all. I know one of the blokes who is a customer at mercury who runs a 32gtr for drag racing has a half cage in his, so even still could copy his one which im sure is andra spec.

I think its the other way round ovabooster, neo heads have smaller chambers. So that would result in a higher cr. Unless im getting mixed up. cr calc http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

last radar loop i looked at didnt show much wet spots over ipswich. North side is taking a pounding, but southside not so bad. However tomorrow is another day and things could change dramatically.

gtr bearings mate....its a secret haha...not really but ill explain later or atleast to dan, see if his bloke chilton knows about it or can even do it. I know i dont have to help you, but if and when im free, instead of sitting at home doing jack i could be helping or doing something productive which will not only aid you in your gtr quest but help expand my skills, knowledge and maybe a little money on the side.

you will have to let me know how chilton is going to machine the bottom end. You will definetely need to do the trick with the gtr bearings at that power level. Maybe dan can fill me in on that one. If i had more time shane, i would help you out with alot of that stuff cause i wanna see your farking car going. Cage, tanks, seam welding and whatnot that i could make/do. Just depends on whether it works out cheaper to fab it up or to just buy it already done. Obviously time as well...if our car is done and my car is done and im free, im happy to make some money off your arse. That fuel cell, have you already purchased it? Side note. Have you considered a personal loan for what you need? I know it sounds extremely silly, but apparently alot of people do that

you going to jambo tomorrow? So long as the rain pisses off!

Can i ask why you didnt allow for pistons and rods? I thought you had all those things already? Crank isnt a big deal, if its just scoring its easy enough to go 10 or 20 thou over size. Who would be doing the machine work if your getting the bottom end done? Cause you would need to do it right, since your aiming for big power....and i dont know how many shops out there know the tricks you need to do inorder to do it properly.

is it going to be raining tomorrow?

im pretty sure the knock board let you monitor detonation and you can tune it so it can pull timing or add fuel if it detects it as a safety feature. Apparently it can do it for each cylinder, or so it seemed from the last time i read about it on the autronic website. The ignition expander i thought was basically a replacement so you dont need the CDI module.

we got sks package and then i pinched the tops off the teins and used them since they were spherical bearing, not rubber. Before we changed to SK's deal, we put softer springs on the teins, and i must admit that helped a little bit but it was still stiff...which led me to believe that the shocks were still crap in terms of their valving, from them to the SK's was a massive improvement all round. Had to play with spring rates abit, but nothing too major. However the aussie spec ones seem to be loads better over the jap ones. We are way off topic here, talking suspension in rb30 country.

f**k shane..........do something and get the ball moving. Your just going to pro long the whole thing a million years into the future. Tip for ya mate. Aim for a power figure that you can achieve more easily. Do what you need and get it done, less waiting around. Car gets back on the road and you can start having fun.

excellent geoff....best thing said in this thread so far lol.

chris i can assure you that for circuit racing they are by no means usable. Even with semi slicks or full slicks...hopeless. Wait a sec...our teins had the damper adjustment screw on top too...maybe they were HA??? But they were also height adjustable.

i see a plazmaman plenum there....looks good....

shit...i cant remember...they were your usual imported crappy shocks with super super super super stiff springs. For some reason 'HR' is sticking in the back of my mind, if that means something, possibly model or type. I think it even had street written on the sticker somewhere. Worst suspension ive ever seen. Al....wi is codename for people in the know around here...those who have used it or are planning on using it. haha its water injection Sorry i had just finished the bourne ultimatum before i came on..haha

whats this event your going to before the jambo fellas?

We found that descent suspension really helped...going from jap teins to Sks setup, some good shocks and matched springs really helped reduce wheelspin and got the power down. Suspension that actually lets the car squat can make all the difference even with poor rubber. Looks like your well on the way to power town mate.

another 100kws there to find joel...go for gold mate. A set of poncams or something similiar and some wi. wait and manifolds too.

I dont know how much extra throttle response your going to get. But in terms of power, what i have noticed is that you lost a noticeable bit of down low power and torque. Obviously the shorter runners are to blame, however it does open up the top end. But they do neaten up the whole engine bay and make more room for changing plugs and less piping running everywhere. Very good guide mate. Excellent bunch of photos showing all the bits that need to be done.