r33_racer

well im only going on whats going round at the moment, the latest trick is pre turbo and it helps shift the compressor back into its efficiency range whilst running higher then normal boost pressure(eg making a 800hp turbo flow 1000hp) which would normally send you outta the efficiency range and start blowing hot air and then losing power. Apparently people have been having more success with that then running post i/c like we had before. But they are just workshop ramblings of customers/friends. Ive only run it post i/c so far so i cant comment on how well it works the other way. The setup we use or have used is pretty good as it reads off the afm voltage and you set a min and max setting and it just adjusts as the voltage changes as the relevent airflow changes. So its all relative, which really helps with getting fine settings down pat so you cant have too much or too little. Same setup that mafia used, its an old way of det suppression but mixed with modern electronics its a very good setup to have these days if you really wanna push things or just as a safety margin.

no...greddy you lose some downlow....but achieve more midrange to topend. More so topend. But its neat and tidy and looks the part. Depends on how finicky you are with your setup. Other aftermarket plenums that maintain the std runners help keep the low to mid without sacraficing too much top end.

yeh you can do it...but it has to be t'd into with pressure source...ie boost line and its some special t's piece too which works to help atomise the water before it hits the blades....stops the compressor wear.

yes please explain that one in a little more detail....sure you dont mean the crank is nitrided from factory?

morgan park is good....have they fixed the last turn onto the main straight now...it was in pretty average condition last time i was there. Very close to the concrete barrier...seen a few cars smash into that thing...nasty stuff.

ive been pushing for that joel believe me. Ive been trying to find a rolling chassis from somewhere. But that means remaking everything again as not everything will be transferable. However it would allow for a complete strip and build a sweet new chromemoly cage that will tie in absolutely everything....haha that gets me going, our current cage is pretty basic

Here is a quick photo of our r33 race car. Pure circuit! Dont ask how much has been spent either.

geez gary, why do you have to keep coming up with negatives mate? Thats more weight, coolers and pumps for gearbox and diff. Wish we got that holinger gearbox now, it came with built in pump for cooler, atleast im pretty sure it did. The ppg set should handle 450rwkws shouldnt it? Im really hoping for 450rwkws. Will be good to get it. 700bhp woot!

Yeh were ditching the 044 and its getting replaced by a magnaflow 1000hp pump with pre and post filters. Water injection will only stay if its needed, if not then it will go as it will be unnecessary weight. if we did use it we would look at using it pre turbo instead of pre throttle body. But i dont think we would need it as the turbo has alot more top end then before. It worked well on the gt30 cause it was right on the limit and helped get the extra power out of it.

not a bad way to spend 10 grand.......overnight parts from japan!

Ok were about to start building the latest and greatest 25/30 to go in the race car. Specs are as follows. Head is rb25 with oversize s/s valves 1mm over in and 2mm over exhaust with quite abit of port n polishing. Valve springs to suit and the hydraulic lifters have been converted to solids. No more vct, its been blocked off and cams are 265 10.2mm inlet and 272 10.2 exhaust. The new block is running 9.0:1 CR. New 6boost mani to suit t04z and a plasmaman plenum instead of greddy item. New sm4 with cdi to go on to control it all. Old motor made 370rwkws. Im hoping to easily achieve 420rwkws with this new one. But 450rwkws would be nice. Will probably have to run a 50/50 mix with toluene inorder to achieve it safely. Old head was stock, just 256 poncams and stronger springs with greedy mani and 6boost mani and gt35r with 8.2:1CR. Am i dreaming with the new expected power output here? Or does it all sound feasable? This new rb30det will easily be the toughest one to date for us.

whats wrong with using the std manifold? Not that i wouldnt suggest going for a better exhaust manifold, but if the power isnt enormous and its not going to restrict your setup in anyway then why not use the std piece? Or maybe get the std one power ported and use that. Just another option if your not too certain on the a/m ones with turbo placement and whatnot.

did someone just read the first few pages and then post or what...cause im lost with that one.

yes you just run an external oil feed to the gallery from your OPS feed. T piece from either the ally heat exchanger or from the bunged hole in the block and run it to a newly tapped hole in the front inlet side of the head where you can see a tube like casting running up the head to the inlet camshaft area. Make the fitting thats in the head feeding the gallery to have about the same size hole as the std feed from the rb25 block which i think is something like 1.6mm....but im probably wrong. Though this is probably the biggest thread in the tech section, it would definetely have the most tech info available. Sometimes the chatter is techinical

setup.....as in make it work with the 25 head...alot of people have done that.

thats because generally everything outisde of qr is cams only...plus qr is the closest track around.

jesus...took that the wrong way...just jokes man, frick people need to lighten up bigtime. I spose you probably dont know what im like so i guess you could easily take what i say the wrong way. Apologies man, i seem to have this problem alot...probably should just say nothing from now on, might keep peoples knickers from getting in a knot.

nismoid i believe he said it was going to be N/A. no turbo, cams well who the hell makes a 26/30 na anyway? Thats the silliest thing ive heard.

or stainless if you want some bling!

I believe you can probably run it above the oil level so long as its on the exhaust side i think(could be inlet, have to check with someone who knows exactly) so the crank vacuum helps pull the oil out of the return. I would think exhaust side, as the factory scraper breaks the vacuum from the inlet side so it also being the low point of the sump would be coping all the oil and broken windage. Need gary to cross check my thinkings, he would know for shizzle.

if your in perth go see Glenn Campbell, he tunes and use autronics. He is very reputable and a good bloke.

go autronic mate. You wont regret it. SM4 all the way. Just a side note, does anyone know if the actual knock unit is available yet. Cause when i got my sm4 the anti knock unit wasnt actually out yet and that was about 3-4 months ago.

noel make a plate to bolt upto it and have a 3" pipe coming off it to clamp your filter to. Obviously the plate needs a 3" hole in the guys to suit the pipe. Easy town mate

i was under the impression that all the tensioners were the same. Besides you only need to use one above the water pump and leave an idler down the bottom. Makes it way easier if you need to change belts or adjust something which requires the belt to be removed.

if thats how your planning on doing it. Dont bother. Unless you got a timing light and your checking base timing as you go, its not worth it mate. Will probably cause more problems then its worth.