r33_racer

v power racing ftw! We use it solely in the race car. highest octane pump fuel available.

Running in is an old wives tale. Build motor, put it the best synthetic oil you got and go thrash the guts out of her! Thats what we do and no worries mate

When you assemble the motor dont use oil in the bore. Use a crc like inox to lube the bore up for the first start of the motor. Bore cant glaze up and it helps bed the rings in extremely well. We use motul also, 300v lemans.

didnt have time to do it this arvo sorry. Tomorrow after work ill be going to parents house to work on race car. so ill weigh it then and report back. Of snap, i think our machinest has it for balancing with the rest of the bottom end. Dammit, forgot about that. Might be a while before i get it back too. My bad peoples.

ill weigh them when i get home, but i dont think there is much weight difference as such between the ati and a std rb damper. I think its their internal construction with their rubber rings and whatnot that absorbs more vibration and over a larger spread of frequency and converts that to heat more efficiently then a std one. I think they can make them to suit your motor specifically if they had one to test. I believe they say they can tune them (harmonic/frequency wise) to suit your motor and rev range.

get rid of the internal oil pump all together Then we can say. Wanna Rev? Go Nissan!

next lot of racing is in september. Anyone who has intentions to race, or has a car they have raced at a topgear event should come join in in the state champ series. All jap cars are welcome. If not then come watch and see how it all goes. You may get enticed to start racing!

not to stray off topic but is that josh's (NismoBoy) old r32 he had? About the gearboxs lasting. I would be more inclined to think that circuit racing would put more stress, and temperature through a box then drag racing would, as its over an exteneded time. In a 20min race you do more high rpm gearchanges, more throttle application(on/off) and temps skyrocket cause your doing that for so long. Only thing you dont get is the initial force on everything from the launch as there isnt as much rubber layed down on the start/finish line like found at a dragstrip. 370rwkws killed our rb25gbox at the track after a 1.5 years of racing, 4th gear. Application will determine most things. I would stick to a conserative power if your keeping the rb20box.

supercheap or repco would probably have one for a vl commo.

400rwkws = plenty of moolah! Not just initial outlay, but ongoing fees also.

1000hp.....weakest part besides almost everything will be the block.

Nearly had it there security. If you have the appropriate clearances for bearings, piston to bore and ring end gaps, you dont need to bed the engine in, you can just go and thrash it without any issues. However if you run tight clearances for bearings, piston to bore and rings then you have to do the whole run in process for fricken 1000-1500 kms. Before anymore misconception goes on, people should have an understanding of how it all works. If you take a rebuilt motor with tight clearances, and try and thrash it, it will shit itself! 9 times out of 10 it will be a spun bearing. Tight specs means run in required, loose specs mean you can thrash it straight away. Road cars for instance are almost always rebuilt with tight clearances, while race engines or high horsepower engines will be built with looser clearances as they are expected to be thrashed and not run in as most race cars cant be driven on public roads. URAS, f1 engines are built for a short lifespan. There clearances would be spot on for instant full noise racing. Once a motor is built, their run in is as you say it, and after that its probably tune check and then go for gold. Once that race or two are over its a new motor again.

It was wasted on you too once.

hoosiers have a DOT number stamped on them and two small lines through them. 295 wide 40% profile 17"rim

i must admit you would be a funny father to have. haha. However i was never claiming you as my old man, old man. Plus i would think im a great son and you would be lucky to have me By the way..nice reply josh.

Have a good one mate! Dont get lost in all that...

Noel...i need your approval...your like the father i never had. Josh got some advice.....you just old me to calm down.....I wont cry papa...im a big boy dammit! Fight the power Josh...till your last breath!

Dont make me saw 3/4 of the way through your walking cane as a practical joke....ill do it and it will be funny!

Top Gear in sports cars, QR state champ in JDM class. Occassionally sprints if the car is going at the time.

It was in general reference to my own dislike for motorkhanas. I also have attended one and i thought it could have been alot better. They were getting up us for hanging the arse out too much....and i could go on and have a whinge but i couldnt be stuffed. Noel, ive learnt those tricks already from tear arsing around on wet roads like an idiot in the work utes. From what ive gathered, a more balanced car like a skyline is alot more predictable and gives a shit load more feedback then a stupid toyota hilux with 80% of its weight in the first third of its overall length. You learn a few things about car control from that. Not only that, but from my stupid fixation with Initial D in grade 12 i practied heel/toeing for a few years until i got it down-pat....and then we get a dog box...fate! Moral of the story, motorkhanas are stupid There i said it!

Funny stuff josh...He's the same bloke who tried to get up me because i said their motorkhana days werent much good in another thread in the motorsport section. It's weird though, I dont get motorkhanas...they are just so boring. There is no adrenalin rush, no real time competition, no real racing skill involved. Real racing involves more then one car (but pref about 20)on the track at a time and it must have a start finish line, where the first person to cross it wins after x amount of laps.

I machined up a bit of ally, 6mm long by about 6.1mm in diameter. By external oil feed, if you mean rear drain from the head then it goes to the sump somewhere normally on the LHS of the motor..ie exhaust side.

however it is entirely accurate!

Sounds like everyone is slowly getting up and running now, another team would be good to see. Next year were hoping to actually race in the event rather then watch it. We had a team together this year but everyone got scared and discouraged by how much fuel and tyres and brakes we would use, plus the entry fee. But based off the times everyone was doing, out of the porsches only about 5-6 of them were actually quick.

do you think you could honestly run 15degree of negative camber per side and 1. not notice how f**ked up it looks, 2. how much clearance there was between any suspension components, if any. My final question is, what did you use to measure your camber? Were you using some sort of anglemaster or a proper longacre camber gauge?