r33_racer

Yes you can just slap on a stock bottom end if you want...and there is plenty of work involved, too much you could say.

thats wasnt really helpful to the topic mate, thats more like a free plug for your business. Probably could have been justified if you contributed with some of your experience or knowledge on the matter and then hinted to topstage as a third party of which can supply such aerodynamic parts. Not being rude mate, just letting you know because you could get a warning about busting the rules, unless your a site sponsored business. If your interested in aero, there are quite a few books around on the technology used in F1 which is definetely the most advanced you can probably get for ground effects race cars.

Please ignore flyfink. Thats my old man being an old fool! only 100kg rev210. I would have thought a little more, but then again i spose with manifolds and all maybe 130-140kgs. I really should weigh it all myself...and then everyone else will know.

we made 370rwkw with WI on our old rb25/30 using .82 gt3040.

dear son of rajab that is cheap for brake pads. What type of pad are they exactly? Composite wise?

awesome. Thats a starting point. Thanks so far fellas.

As the topic states im curious about engine weight, full block and head weights with or without ancillaries attached. Just to give some idea of actual weight without me having to lift the stuff onto a set of scales. I know this probably isnt the right section for this either, but ill chuck it in anyway. R32 skylines gtst only, how light have people gotten them down to? Probably thinking more so of race car stuff rather then road cars. But either way it will all help. Cheers.

at winton? i thought it was from the shannons gt production car race at QR the weekend prior? Funnily enough millers 430 isnt that quick. He would be a little annoyed as a few weeks prior i was at their workshop at geebung and they were just fitting new radiators out front which im guessing got smashed in. sucks.

i would say gary has a bloudy good idea on whiteline stuff. Some what of an owner/expert on the stuff you could say

If you were doing it, i would do it like i did it in the race car...strip it all out, sound deadening and all, sand it back where its getting welded in like you normally do. Once the cage is all welded in and finished then go ahead and paint the whole interior. Believe me, its a pain in the arse painting everything and then having to sand it back where your welding and then touching it up. If its getting welded by mig, your going to get sparks everywhere and its going to ruin the paintjob just about everywhere inside. If its getting tig welded in then it should be ok, then its just the radiating heat from the weld area that will cook and bubble the paint outside of the sanded area as it travels through the parent metal. But each to their own!

can you tell me why your setup is better shane?

hahaha....i only say its better cause your copying a superior setup already Well it might not be superior, but i think it is and thats all that bloudy counts....screw everyone elses opinion, fricken arseholes! I really shouldnt have told anyone i had a dry sump setup, or let anyone see it. Im getting heaps of people asking for info and even bits and pieces now. I should start a business.

If needed Dan, i can provide the alloy piping for you. Also i can even tig the -16 ends on for you too!

Just talk to SK about anti-roll bars. He is the best person to see for many reasons

if you get an aftermarket exhaust manifold, chances are your turbo back exhaust now wont bolt up. What about the oil and water lines and piping, both i/c and intake?

Yeh i also made it out there...i was up in the tower next to the commentary team. Great view up top, you can see everything. Didnt those damn porches take up the whole front line? Damn they were quick. Was good to see atleast one skyline there representing. Excellent work guys. How did you guys go overall? When i was watching you were around 13-16th which was good considering the field.

haha...shit sorry mate...i think the sentence in which you said it doesnt happen...some words were jumbled up and i took it as it did happen. Either that or im on drugs. My apologies for the lies.

Duncan, we use Castrol SRF brake fluid. Sorry for being vague, i just assumed its what everyone used, or the motul equivalent(RBF600 i think). Are we talking about brake fluid or power steering fluid mate? Im referring to a post on the first page i think it was about brake fluids. He mentioned he got some dot 5.1 and djr81 already told him to get rid of it and sid already mentioned his brake fluid had boiled before. Power steering fluid, we just use your ordinary everyday road going crap from the caltex down the road(yes im a hypocrit)....and i can swear that it has never boiled or overflowed...ever. It once weeped from a fitting which i never did up properly, but no fault of the fluid just my stupidity. However, i did fab an ally p.s tank which is about 3 times the size of the std reservoir, and it got relocated to where the carbon canister normally sits. So not only does it hold significantly more fluid, but it also would dissipate the heat better then the std plastic one for sure, and it does get some descent airflow as we have no p.s headlight. Maybe im a genius in disguise, i fixed some typical problem without even knowing it existed. Could that explain our cars lack of p.s boiling and overflow...note we dont run a p.s cooler either!

fark...thats every racers nightmare. The only thing worse then that is totalling your car and dying. Good thing he didnt die, or atleast i hope he didnt. He must have been flying when he come off, especially to break through the barrier.

shit shane..answer my question...is AMC some sort of brand ive never heard of?

Is it Millers 430 or Tuelans? As a sidenote also..i live at Enoggera on South Pine Rd, probably not far from yourself. Also just for you information a lexan rear windshield saves 4.5kgs from standard.

please excuse my ignorance...im too lazy to google it as i obviously dont care much for it..but what is an AMC exactly?

ok i always thought that both were to do with the fuel mixture burning before it is intended to. ie. before the spark plug ignites the air/fuel mix. Whether it was to do with a hot spot or just the fuel burning unevenly was irrelevant. Thought it was the act of it occuring rather then what caused it. Suppose you learn something new everyday.

Really? mine doesnt have that problem. I got a nifty little oil pump that hangs off the side of my block, where the a/c would normally sit, infact the only oil in my engine is whats running through its veins doing its job, straight afters its done what it needs to it gets sucked out. My big ends are fine too. Sr's biggest fault is their stupid rockerarm/camshaft design, nearly as stupid as pushrods in v8's...and two valves per pot....and because i hate chrysler/dodge stupid hemispherical combustion chambers!

possibly because its a higher octane fuel, better then anything else offered on pump. Harder for it to preignite, or even ignite for that matter. Hence why the tuning is normally required. Vice versa if you were to stick a low octane crappier fuel in then what you were tuned on originally, it would preignite and ignite a great deal easier, generally when knock sets in the most.