r33_racer

Ok. That sounds good. Thanks brad, appreciate the help mate.

Does anyone know if its true that the maximum lift you can run in an rb25 head is 9.5mm as it exposes the oil gallery or something along those lines? Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated

race car runs on it no dramas...370rwkws on 20psi. Also runs like a rocket, also because its tuned on it. As big carl said, tuning.

hahaha yeh government funds the switch and it locals..lol.Give centrelink your sob story, your a full time uni student lives away from home, you have kids with no partner and your 1/8th aboriginal, while at the same time working a full time job, and then doing weekend work for cash. If i lived in the switch thats what i would do...youd be on like 2g a week easytown.

My economy is awesome....1 tank of fuel lasts me like 2-3 weeks easy. I found out that by driving a work ute instead of the skyline, my fuel economy has improved and my wallet is fatter!

ahh well that changes everything then. You should have mentioned it was a built sump for racing. Probably worth the effort then.

pull the rocker covers off and have a look. Could be something loose, perhaps a bridge cap bolt. Could be a worn camshaft lobe...regardless you need to have a look.

std 30 sump doesnt have a scraper around 4,5 and 6. Why would you want to use one? The 25 sump would be better then the 30 and obviously as R31Nismoid said the modified 26 sump is better again.

Brad...Spool imports has a neo head on his 25/30. It has and can be done.

want a lightweight motor that makes bugger all power...go sr...want a tough motor(tough as in heavier) that punches out the goods go an RB

very nice pump dan....looks very schmick! The orange sets it off. Your dry sump setup is going to be awesome....and only I know why! haha. Side note...mines better

if the brake fluid is boiling..chances are they are running inferior fluid....synthetic fluid whether it is motul or castrol....whatever brand....dont use road going crap ever on the track, waste of time. Weve been using castrol for the last 2 years, no problems ever.

unlucky scooby! There is always problems....its quite annoying. I need a little bit of info so i can work out the cr for this new motor.... Does anyone know what the std compression height is from gudgeon centre to deck...is it 1.300" or 33.02mm? I know the cp's all have a comp height of 1.280" and the 9:1 pistons have a 6cc dome. But i have a set of acl rb25 pistons and was going to see if i can use them to get a 9:1cr in this new motor.

brendale hpc has gone....dont know if they went bust or just moved location.

well after lots of arguing between the team we finally decided to that inorder to keep up with some of the faster cars out there since were having trouble getting the weight out of it we need more hp! So the next motor will definetly be 9.0 cr or close enjoy. usual cp pistons and maybe brads spool rods perhaps. Thinking 1mm oversize intake and 2mm oversize exhaust. Run some wild cams and have the hydraulics converted to solid and hopefully make another 50-80hp.

Yes that makes sense...if you call it chamfering.

kyles going around telling everyone the secret to bottom end life....haha. Only thing he left out was grooving the big end oil gallery so you can use gtr bearings on the mains with the multiple feeds. Unless thats what he meant by radiusing the oil galleries.

hmmm material...depends where you get it from.....some people get free scrap that could do the trick

i dont think anyone has one up here either.

funny ive never seen the power steering res boil and over flow before....is that a gtr thing?

if your good enough you dont get any real peno sticking through and dont need to grind it out For most piping on cars the strength isnt needed like it is in a structural job. If you can get it aligned spot on and dont get any peno it makes the job that little bit quicker and easier.

yeh no sway bars ftw. I know everytime id want to change suspension settings when i change tyres and tracks id rather run stupidly stiff springs and just change them everytime at the track rather then play with sway bar settings. Chances are if you run with no sway bars you will suffer from alot more body roll, which can help to some degree but will more then likely be a problem. If your pushing it too hard through the corners with minimal camber and castor the tyre is probably running on the outside edge of the tyre and thats why its understeering....but its probably a combo of things if the car isnt setup well.

awesome...........anxious. No sleep for you then hey?

no i havent chris. haha i know the theory and prac behind purging....but ive never bothered myself, not unless i was making something and it was specifically required. The closest thing ive done when doing exhaust and i/c piping is stuff rags in the ends of the sections im welding to stop air running through the inside and contaminating my weld area. I suppose thats a basic form of purging if the gas was filling the section through any root gap i left.

yes i know...i also have a kemppi...and i know you have one so thats why i suggested that. They are a great tig. The ones at tafe are big, bulky and old and all the torches and leads weigh a tonne....after doing a week of tafe for advanced tig using their torches and leads(which were miller)...then going home and welding a fuel tank up using the kemppi it felt like as light as a feather....i love them.