r33_racer

I got the battery from a place out at brendale called all star batteries. It's not bad for its size. Didn't get to do much tuning yesterday Bunch of small issues popped up. Boost leaks mainly, and also wastegate wasn't staying shut. Couldn't get much boost out of the turbo. Throttle body also leaks really badly. Need to get a decent quality unit that will bolt upto the greddy manifold. So could be another week or so before I fix everything and go back.

If you have blow-by then its a poor ring sealing issue mate. The more boost you run and the more power you end up making is only going to make it worse. More power will generate more blow-by, unless your rings can magically seal up better then what they are now. The root cause of all these issues is blow-by pure and simple and that starts and finishes at ring seal. All the breathers and crap is a band aid fix to help vent all the excess crankcase pressure. If you can keep the crankcase pressure under control you wont end up with oil spewing out everywhere, as I'm guessing you don't want to build the engine again with some proper sealing rings. But to help your cause for now. You want at least a -12 breather off the sump pan above oil level from the inlet side of the motor to your catch can, the two from the rocker covers to the catch can. If you can accommodate it then a drain back to the sump on the exhaust side from between cylinders 3 and 4 though this shouldn't be needed, but if you are doing it with engine out you may as well cover all your bases to be sure, also a drain from the catch can to the exhaust side sump too though once again this shouldn't be required either. With that setup even with a reasonably heavy breathing engine you shouldn't get any oil blowing out the filters and messing up your engine bay.

Sorry about the lack of updates peeps. But I've been working flat out to finish this all so I can get some dyno tuning done hopefully on the weekend! Tuner came around this afternoon and setup computer and we got it running! Sounds angry! A few little issues to sort out, but nothing major so far. Hopefully it stays that way. Just gotta setup thermofan tomorrow and fix the little issues and fingers crossed, we will have power figures by Saturday!

So extend the garage or build a dedicated car shed.....problem solved mate!

Geez those suspension bits look good!

You could just get some pistons made how you want. It's usually no more then normal in terms of price, just a bit of a wait.

If you have too many teeth won't some ecu's lose resolution? As in too many teeth spinning past the sensor and it can lose track of their position?

Did they even test all this when it was made?

120psi is fine. That is a rough guide of what it will be. But as said that can change depending on main, rod and rod side clearances used in conjunction with what viscosity oil is run. You might find hot you will only achieve 100psi. Stop worrying about the oil pressure and have the oil squirters put back in. Your engine builder should know that system pressure is controlled via bypass and by grub screwing the oil squirters he is only reducing a fraction of the pumps potential supply volume, not pressure. Your bypass may open sooner without the squirters now, assuming everything else being the same. Forget the head oil problem by running high pressure, if you have small 1.0mm-1.2mm restrictors and head drains opened up and adequate crankcase ventilation to a breather can you will be fine in that regard.

Very nice build mate! Will be an animal with the new stroker!

Since the last update, aside from family shit for Christmas, all I have been doing is electrical work or so it seems....my most hated part of automotive modifying. However, all grievances aside I have hooked up the new haltech pro plugin I got and the bigger 4 bar map sensor. I also had to hook up another boost gauge so I can read boost pressure pre-supercharger. That unit also has a map sensor and lots of wiring. While I was at it I figured I should run the loom for the NGK AFR sensor unit and its analogue output to the haltech and finish off the water methanol controller wiring. All that wiring and mucking around took a good few days. But in there somewhere I also machined up a bezel for the boost gauge and water/meth controller to mount in under the head unit and knocked up some brackets to hold the AFR display to the steering column. After that I realised I had only part finished the water/meth wiring in the boot to the pump! Got that knocked over and tried to tidy up the wiring abortion in the boot. So much crap in there! In one of the photos next to the map sensors mounted on the firewall there is a vacuum manifold that I got off eBay With all the extra crap I am running I didn't have anywhere near enough nipples on the greddy inlet manifold; problem solved now though! I'm hoping I have sorted out all the electrical side of things which then only leaves me with the fun stuff. Tomorrows plan is to finish adding a few bits to the inter cooler pipe work so I can coat them and hopefully sort out the oil line plumbing! Shit, if I am lucky and get enough time I might even be able to throw some oil in there and try to fire it on the base map Hopefully the next update will actually have something worthwhile to see!

Thanks mate! Not to worry, if I have any issues first thing I will do is call you! Bleed air. Check that. I will make sure I do that first. Yeh its supposed to be 120 or 130amps I think the sparky told me when he tested it.

Today was first day of holidays thank god! I got stuck into it straight away this morning and managed to get the power steering lines all plumbed up which takes alot longer then you first think. However the whole power steering side is now complete. Whether it works or not I don't know....will see what happens when I hook the battery up and give it some power! I also included a picture of how long you need the high pressure hose to be to run from the rack into the boot. I also re did the fuel hoses from the new cap on top of the fuel tank. That was also a prick to plumb up. Trying to run one 1/2" hose up and around the fuel tank seemed impossible solo. Had to enlist my little brothers help to get that job done, from there on it was cake. Just feeding it up to the new fuel rail and then from rail to reg and return to tank. One major problem that I have come across is that my supercharger belt is a fraction too short and wont work. Nobody locally has a 8M HTD belt the right length, which has proven to be a pain in the arse. So I have ordered a few from the states. Hopefully the holidays wont interfere too much with freight. Then the drive system will be sorted finally! I'll just throw in this picture of where I ran the circuit breaker under the dash that provides power to the fuel pump relay. I also fitted the patrol alternator but I forgot to take some pictures. The only modification to that for it to fit was to make an extension for the adjuster bracket as that lug is on the other side of the alternator. I just machined up a threaded bush with some rose joints and a few spacer bushes so it picks up the lug and connects it to the adjuster bracket. Its pretty basic. That's it for now.

Spend your money on a good set of pistons with good rings that will actually seal...The RB oiling problem is 90% excessive crankcase pressure (too much blow by) and 10% too much oil flow to the head. You need to fix the problem at the heart of it all! Putting on extra crankcase breathers is only another band aid fix. Which does work fine though. If your engine is already built or bought, then adding the appropriate breathers is your only real choice.

oddly enough I do not. however I will attempt to get some.

We did a similar thing on our race car. we run the 1000hp ati. We use the autronic cas disc for TDC reference. Except we attached the trigger wheel to the front side of the timing gear and the sensor bolts off the oil pump. It all ends up being hidden behind the damper.

I haven't received any messages buddy. I have a feeling you are still using my old number... I was going to ring you on Saturday for a chat but the day was not going well for me! With the power steering I have just gotten the earls fittings and power steering hose for the pressure line. I cant even recall what solution you gave me when I posed the issue to you ages ago lol. I think you said to just run the line from the pump to the rack right? No accumulator or anything funny..

A few pictures of what I spent the weekend working on. I will get some more this afternoon. I have pretty much built a twin in tank pump arrangement. Budget spec though lol. I just machined a new top cap to replace the plastic one so I could put the fittings how I wanted. Just used a gland nut with 5/16 fuel hose going through it with 7 wires tightly packed down its guts so the fuel pumps get full power supply via a relay and some new extensions for the fuel level sender. Turned out alright and looks like it will work good. I used twin DW300 pumps attached to the factory bracket and they both 'Y' piece via check valves into a 1/2" hose to feed the AN-8 fitting on the top which will go to the rail. I must apologise about the photo short, I don't think I took any of the whole setup before I installed it into the tank. It took way longer then I had planned and I had the shits. So I wired it up via a relay block with a 12v/40amp 5pin relay taking the signal wire from the factory fuel pump wiring as you do. I ran the power wiring into the cab and I mounted a re settable circuit breaker under the dash so I can cut the power to the relay when I'm not using the car. The wiring too a long time to do.... I'm not a big fan of electrical work at all. It gets frustrating! All in all a very non productive weekend. I was hoping to get the power steering pump hooked up and wiring done for it too!

A little update....I have finally started finishing this project off now there is adequate space in my old mans shed! I am hoping to finish it over the Xmas holidays starting from last weekend! I have pulled the whole fuel system out and I am redoing it all. Going to run twin in-tank pumps to get rid of the fuel smell I had from the external pumps, lines and surge tank arrangement. This should be a lot simpler and neater. I finished off fitting and setting up the rebuilt power steering rack, Worked out the crankcase evacuation setup and tig'd the tube and fittings into the exhaust system which turned out pretty good. I bought a brand new CAS. I ordered a new fuel rail and some Bosch 1600cc Indy blues. Also got a water/meth tank for the boot coming which holds the pump in it to simplify the installation. I am sure there is more but I cant recall it atm. However it is fricken exciting to be getting back into it finally! I hope to take a bunch of pictures next time I work on it so you can see where this build is at!

I'm keen to see the jerico 4 speed box conversion. I have been thinking about doing the same thing for a little while now. Except for circuit racing use! Good job mate!

And once more for good measure

Well he said he had gone first oversize 86.5mm. So it would have been a bore to get it close then hone to get it to size.

Ah good ole hot honing. That is the ultimate for block machining but not many people can afford the setup to do it, usually only reserved for high end motorsport applications where they are chasing every little bit of power through improved ring seal. I'm pretty sure it was Smokey Yunick who started the development of this procedure. The idea was to do the machine work on the bores when the block was stressed and heated as closely as possible to real running conditions. Torque plate on head with heated coolant running through the plate and block at the designated temperature and pressure. Quite a lot more involved in the setup and knowledge of sizing in relation to piston to bore clearance; you need to know a great deal more to do it properly. But all this stuff is going way off topic to what the OP had asked in relation to why his bore measurements were not making sense.

The torque plate will change the bore dimensions if you bolt it to a block that was honed in a relaxed state....just like the head will when you tension it down and the head fasteners start stressing on the four corners of each bore.

yep. I didn't think he still had the 95mm ones?