r33_racer

Yeh ive been checking it for updates often, however i paid on the day i posted about doing this and it says i still havent paid. Hence why i asked if everything is upto date. The internet transfer i did that night says it went through. I guess im just curious to know if it infact did or if somethings gone wrong. Just checked the post date and it was the night of the 16th. So i would assume a few days after that it went through.

you are talking about engine hp right? Not at the wheels? A large rear gt3040 should do it.

Since the oulet of the turbo is 3" anyway...you can go first 90" at 3" and then straight away taper out to 3.5" or 4" whatever way you want to go. That way you wont have to worry about the lack of room.

So they reckon bigger exhaust hey.. So i wonder if our knock will drop with a 4" system and power will increase? If it really is the hotside...that could explain something....

so any news on updates as to who has paid and what not?

perhaps a faulty bearing?

How did it last 1500km then?

The bearings werent in arse about were they?

Yeh i agree with you A...if i could build another 30det...would definetly go for the 26 head. Just a side note. I have had a/m manifolds both intake and exhaust on my r33 for the last year or more and never had any problems with tpt...infact ive never had a cop look under my bonnet yet in the whole time ive had the car.

Yeh i understand what your saying there. However if the 4 litre revs out to 7000rpm as well and makes 375kws with little power increase probably because of the restriction as its flowing more gas then the 3 litre at 7000rpm regardless of powermade either way. A 4" exhaust would be a basic upgrade for a turbo 250xflow while for us its a pretty high end upgrade as 3" or 3.5" normally does it for quite sometime. The way you look at it..your right and the way i look at it im right...so were both right at least i think. Hopefully i explained what i was thinking correctly.

why not attempt to do all the ins and outs by yourself and then just get a workshop to do the wiring?

anything before turbo will cause a performance loss. Anything after turbo is just an annoying choofing sound

but the xr6 guys run a 4 litre engine...not 3 litre...so they automatically have more exhaust gas flowing all throughout the rev range. So disco once ive deciphered all that...your basically saying that the head is too small in valve and flow size to suit the extra capacity. Thats where all the problems are coming from or at least originating from and possibly being exaccerbated by other restrictions in manifolding, exhausts and so on. I think SK said something about this at one stage last year...the exhaust side was a little undersize for the 3l...however it was only by something like 17% i think...maybe someone else remembers. I guess it is playing havoc at all power levels both high and low.

yeh yeh i know. Still i think final power figure was something like 370rwkws with it which isnt too bad for a little gt30r. Im hoping we will see 400rwkws with it. Only difference with this new motor is argo rods, dry sump system, and the gt35r. When time permits a 4" exhaust system for it too to replace the damaged 3"...got crushed when running off the track. However im not sure if the 3" was being a restriction at that power level or not.

well shit...uninstall it and do a power run...then reinstall it...god take one for the team ya slackers

Yeh cubes...so did we. When bought from gcg it was quoted as a gt35r .82...anyway after it blew with the last motor, discopotato03 got our dead turbo and checked it out...and found out its infact a gt30r not gt35r. So gcg ripped us off...but that was several years ago and i never checked the chra number or pulled it apart and checked wheel diameter...i assumed they provided us with the right turbo. Anyway new motor is in and ready to go with the gt35r weve just been abit slack finishing off the last few lines for the dry sump system. But i think its going to be a beauty:)

We have greddy plenum and tomei poncams...with a gt30 .82ar power kept climbing upto 8500rpm. Will find out when it gets tuned soon with the gt35 .82ar how it goes. With the gt30 we were seeing full boost by 3300rpm which was 1.5bar with a 6boost manifold. With the crappy chinese s/s manifold full boost was seen around 3600rpm and was 1bar. Id put money on what cubes is saying with the inlet manifold restricting it up high. I reckon they have wound the boost up, and the power increase has been very marginal and not worth it for the knock increase?

yeh..you can use either one.

you can only go as big as your throttle body size...any bigger will be pointless.

atleast you got it off. Its great when things work out swell.

we sport a 600X300X109 i think it is that Richard made for us for our track car. He is very switched on when it comes to intercoolers...if you can provide all the exact details on the car and setup he can work out the appropriate sized cooler to suit. Our goal at the moment is 650bhp...we are currently at 570bhp. He said the cooler would be a tad overkill for our target and setup...but the support is there for when we push the power level up further later on. We run a 25/30...that power figure was with a gt3040 .82ar the new motor is the same except with a gt3540 .82ar which should hopefully see us to the 650bhp target. Just an idea...perhaps you can look at water/meth injection to help with the charge cooling and knock levels, takes some of the strain off the cooler. Weve done this and it works a charm My vote is with Richard @ ARE... However ive only heard good things about Plazmaman also, i guess hes the southern equivalent of ARE.

yeh i thought we were talking about the timing belt cog that sits behind the harmonic damper, which is notorious for being a bitch to get off. Everyother person bascially suggested using a puller...which would have worked great if it was the damper he was trying to pull off...unless ofcourse he tried Spools idea. Not to be rude towards him, but those cogs are hardened steel and they are hard to drill and id imagine naturally hard to tap, but definetely possible with abit of elbow grease.

Normally thats the easy part...its putting the motor back in and aligning the shaft through the clutch and into the spigot bearing thats the hard part. Stick a big arse screw driver between block and bellhousing and start prying...nothing should break. You'll find that after a small amount of movement, a big amount will follow and she should pop right out...unless there is something still attached somewhere. You know maybe youve got too much pressure from the jack supporting the gearbox and its not level...making it hard for it to slide out as it should.

drill a few holes into it near the keyway and then hit it a few times with a chisel over the drilled section and let it crack through and then take it off. Buy a new one from nissan or holden for like 30bux and just use a new one...its alot less time consuming. Plus when you put a new one on you can put abit of nevercease on it so for next time it wont be frozen on so badly.

ok...so not many...ive seen atleast two in the 57's and heard of 1 in the 56's. ZENNON if you rip that 20 out and stick a rb30det in there...that will change. Plus some semi slick tyres if you arent already running any.