r33_racer

Ofcourse there are. Even in the 56's.

is that an actual needle roller spigot bearing?

the pumps and tanks were designed to be used with speedflow fittings or something similar. If you wanted to change all the fittings on the pump and tanks over to another form then yeh you could, but i dont know how much you would save there having not done it before. We looked at using ryco steel fittings instead of the speedflow...but they are just too big and bulky and wouldnt fit especially at a -16 size. The speedflow worked just nice. When weve fully finished and its all up and running ill start a thread outlining what we did, so there is some information available for others who are intending to do their own dry sump setup on an RB. Ours is on an rb30det fyi.

lol ok...so i guess in the future we need to be slightly more detailed with what were saying so things are understood properly.

hmm maybe...ive never noticed anything different about them...maybe their intake was an ally pipe, maybe a steel pipe, maybe plastic downpipe...maybe someones was a 2.5" pipe or a 4" pipe or something in between...all those things could affect the sound...probably even the type of pod filter you have and how long the inlet tract is. Anyway its upto you, atleast theres a little bit more info in here...might help to think it over with whats available. If you wanna know about brands and types...all you need to do is buy a few car mags....HPI, ZOOM, HOT 4's and the other usuals...there is always different bovs for sale there all with pics and descriptions and prices. Will definetely help with the pick.

interesting on the headgasket...i was under the impression that a 1.2mm gasket is 1.2 when compressed. And my 1.6mm headgasket is 1.6mm when compressed. Well that .2 difference makes a difference to the CR. My apologies, your right about the higher comp to volume increase. I had it back to front. I was working everything off rb25 pistons not rb30et ones.

youve basically answered it in your own words....plumb backs dont make noise cause the air is sent back to the turbos intake. Only the feint whoosh from the pod filter as you said already. Anyother plumb back or similar bov will only make the same noise. Only way to get any noise or anything louder then std bov is an atmo one...but it will probably be over the top for what your thinking of. I have a hks ssq at the moment...but its shitting me...so im going to machine up an adapter to suit so i can plumb it back into intake, like a std setup. When it comes to bovs there isnt exactly a great deal in it...theres atmo, plumb backs and then 50/50 atmo/plumbacks in one!

yes i know...things come across the wrong on the net...everytime. When your saying things in a loose context or in a slangish lazy manner people take it the wrong way. Hence why i said at the end i wasnt intending to be rude.....maybe i just like to use the word wank?

im fairly certain std rb25 headgasket is 1.2mm thick, and a 86.5mm bore first oversize (20 thou), 85mm stroke, 87mm headgasket bore size, 62cc combustion chamber head, 11.5cc dome and the rb25 piston will sit 1.2mm below deck height...not sure if i worked that out correctly though. I based it off CPs which i believe have a 0 deck height. Then i worked out 8.7:1. Yours is a little less cause your oversize again at 40 thou over. But then your CC size is 5cc smaller. So it bumps it back up again. I use to work it our manually until i was pointed to this site which helps alot....saves all the maths on the paper and in my head. http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html I just worked ours out with the cps and i get 8.2:1 CR which is exactly how they advertise them. So i know this calculator works good. That and it worked good when i rebuilt my rb25 with acl forgies. I just worked out an rb30det with acl 25 pistons with your 34 neo head and at 40 thou over with a 1mm hg i got bloudy 9.6:1CR.... thats gibson motorsport gtr territory there. Ok one more time...Spool did the rb25 pistons have any dome on them or were they flat as a tack? Cause im pulling the specs off the acl website for their pistons. If its wrong then it could explain the weird CRs im getting in comparison to what your getting.

1. dont be a wank...stick with plumb back...good for performance and doesnt mess with airflow...issues with idle and hunting and so forth. 2. atmo bovs arnt liked by tpt cops and you can and will get fined for it. 3. if your going to buy an a/m one get an ex stock gtr bov or a/m plumb back. Trust me when i say after 6 months to a year you wont want it anymore and will want to revert back to something less annoying and less wankish. 4. R31Nismoid will prob close the thread or another mod...with a comment similar to this. Learn to use the search button Wasnt intending to be rude either.

62cc roughly...well thats what one of our heads cc'd up at....and thats what i use for the formula.

unless i muffed it...i just worked it out with acl rb25 pistons you get a 8.7 cr and with rb30et acl forged pistons you get 7.5cr. Does that sound about right.

peterson ftw! If your mechanically minded...its relatively easy to do...its really just knowing or getting to know the little niggly bits to best suit an rb setup. I can tell you...speedflow fittings and hose adds up to the same as the pump, tank, filters and bracketry....fricken expensive. When you start talking -16 fittings and hose......FARK!

Im pretty sure all spigot bearings are the same. rb30, 25, 20 and 26 identical. Ask for an rb30 spigot bearing...chances of finding that are probably better as its from an australian car...some automotive stores dont know any better. Ask for a 26 and the list will only say rb30....and the pimple faced kid behind the counter will say 'sorry sir the computer only lists one for an rb30 out of a vl commondore, cant help you...' Idiots...annoying sometimes.

okedoke...our car will be done by that day...so put me down please If there is a spot available. The list says there is some spots free, so ive paid. Should be turning a little over 250 too.

rb30 block under that beautiful head....watch the lag drop and the power and on/offboost torque go up

hmm i wonder if he washed the bore down with shellite and sprayed inox or wd40 to quicken up ring bed in. I know thats a common practice these days for some workshops to help speed up the run in. Normally you just wash down the bore with hot soapy water after honing and then coat with oil until its fully assembled and started up. Would be interesting to know how many people/workshops actually use that method after boring and honing and if there has been any noticeable effects from it, good or bad.

Hey cubes....you ran 4thou piston to bore clearance in your motor, with wisecos and you said you get some piston slap when its cold. I ran acls in my personal road r33 when i rebuilt the rb25 not long ago, i ran 3 thou piston to bore clearance, which was 2 thou tighter then what acl specs stated. Even so i get absolutely no audible piston slap, not even straight up in the morning on cold start. Out of curiosity what was your ring end gap clearance?

I believe its because the tomei pumps are three gears, not two like the others. They are probably the best of the best when it come to internal oil pumps. If we hadnt gone dry sump....i would have gone for a tomei pump.

may i ask what acl forged pistons you are going to use? I wasnt aware that they made non turbo rb30 pistons in the forged acl variety. I know they make rb30et ones, however the cr with those would be upto buggery.

Ive never used it before...but it would be your oil mate as thats what bleeds in and out of the lifters. Sometimes sticky followers can clear themselves out after a while and they come good again.

ATI know what they are on about...tried and proven. They have world recognised credibility. We got one on our 25/30.

maybe too much bouncing off the rev limiter with a faulty injector? Alot of people do mods without anysort of tuning afterwards and drive around thinking it will be ok...only to find out later somethings gone or going. 1000 for acl forged pistons with gudgeons/rings 300 for metal headgasket 150 for bore/hone 150 for new bearings big and small 100 deck block and head Do it yourself labourspec...all up about 1700...there could be more things that you might do while at it....eg welsh plugs, maybe some hoses or lines that need replacing...could add up to 2k.

10 litres....Are you sure? We only had 9litres with our high energy circuit sump. That was with cooler, filter and lines and being slightly over filled.

ok. Im with you. Must be different to the rb25 then. As it has a push over fitting which the exchanger slips over with an oring seal and then you bolt it up with the four bolts.