r33_racer

you must do alright

Im pretty sure i posted a pic of our 25/30 showing what we did with the oil filter and sandwich plate on the block somewhere in the rb30 thread but anyway...sorry R31Nismoid. We removed the heat exchanger from ours on the new motor and left the std thread fitting on the block and screwed our sandwich plate straight onto that for our cooler and filter. You then use the OPS feed just NW of the filter section for your oil pres sender and mechanical gauge or whatever else your running off it, in our case also the feed for the vct. Or... You can use the heat exchanger. You will need to remove the push over fitting from the 26 block(im assuming they are the same as the 25's) and the exchanger, remove the threaded fittings from the 30 block and then put your push over one in and then you can use the exchanger for his ops feed and filter. Im guessing it would look something like this. Hope that explains it better and the pics might clarify it abit.

yeh...cause loads of power helps get you around corners and stop quicker too. lol you know whats faster then a heavy car with lots of power....yep you guessed it a lightweight car with lots of power!

yes as Col said already...if i was doing it again i would have gotten nismos also. A true straight bolt up set.

ive fitted several sard injectors to rb25's. 550cc and 850cc types. I used the orings they provided and had no dramas at all with leaking fuel. No dramas with fitting the collars. The only thing that wasnt bolt on was the plugs. Every set i did had to have the plug cut off the injector loom and rewired to suit their plug. However ive been told that this has changed recently and their plugs are now straight plug n play with the std loom. But i dont know how old your injectors are. Fark it was hard work....im just a dumbarse fabricator...what would i know about mechanics??? P.S You dont goto workshops...cause they are just as bigger dumbarses as anyone else...haha even mechanics and mechanical engineers. It's really quite sad.

8-10kg = 1/10th of a second off your laptime...assuming you can drive consistently. So roughly every 80-100kgs removed is equal to 1 second off your consistent laptimes. So if lowdnes was racing my skyline weighing 1300kg and i pulled 80-100kgs out of it his times should automatically drop about 1 second. I dont know about other states...but in qld thats about the average known scale. But weight has always been speeds worst enemy.

if its not 1/8 npt...it will be 1/8 bsp. The two will look exactly the same until you put a thread pitch gauge on it and see or something else that you know has a certain pitch. Either way its tapering.

yes...welded the oil feed and welded up part of the water port to match the headgasket so it has more surface area to seal on as its abit thin in that section.

yes indeed...i havent picked my jaw up off the floor yet either lol

shane..if your valve guides/seals are shot...oil leaks down from the head and in to the combustion chamber everytime a valve goes up and down. It gives the impression that your rings are gone...but if his motor was built properly...bored block to suit new pistons and new rings with good tolerances then he shouldnt have blowby as a result of that. However he should have had all the valves/seats cut and leak tested before putting the head on also.

.9 thick headgasket....std is 1.2. What pistons are you running in your rb30det? What cr did you achieve? i wonder if the oil return is getting backed up cause your front head oil return is t'd into the turbos oil return. Turbo oil return needs to be big and by itself as it has lots of frothy airated oil coming through it and then you start putting more oil through it, it could be possible. We drilled and tapped a fitting into the block for the oil return from the head on our first motor. But if you pull the head off you can change a few things...do ya guides, get stronger springs, just generally freshen up the head.

with that much power....what else could it be?

yeh scooby thats actually a modified front head oil return that would normally goto a fitting on a rb25 block...it worked out nicely as the oil feed and yes it is supported. You can see abit of flat sticking out about 30mm up from the fitting, well that goes behind and is held by that bolt you see on the right of the flat. Great minds think alike yeh? Yes we are getting rid of it neill as we physcially cannot run it now as it fouls on the dry sump pulley/belt. We are going to bolt up the other thermo we had there and run the two.

Finally got around to getting some pictures of the dry sump setup in the race car....its still not finished yet...but its making progress. We gotta mount the ally pipes under the car after i tig on the -16 ends and then mount the tank and finish off that end of the hoses...check out the mass of speedflow crap! Last one is just a new power steering reservoir i fabbed up. Shiny!

what tha? you said 300 more rwkws over what it had before the cams? Am i understanding this correctly? If so...goddamn!

got mine from autobarn....same stuff trust hoses and what not, packaging with tune up bolt set inside along with the red sticker which goes in the casted out rectangle ontop of the plenum.

shouldnt be a problem...would be first time to get to work on a gtr...plus i live in everton park..so only down the road.

haha anyone into making billet girdles with tapped holes for crank scrappers to bolt to...plus the billet aspect would be stronger then the factory cast piece...maybe whilst at that make some billet cranks for the rb30 as well. Surely that would increase the bottom end rigidity quite abit. Not sure if anyone remembers, but im sure there was a bloke on here a while back who was from the states and was looking at producing new billet cranks for rb25, 26, and 30...does anyone know if anything has emerged from this? Or know of anyone else?

yeh thats the only part that was worrying me...weakening the girdle that little bit more by drilling and tapping a few holes. but 26 girdles have them from factory...the tapped holes that is. Probably wouldnt work cause of crank throw...but could a 26 girdle be used in a 30 block?

Scooby if i had those crank scrapers to bolt onto the rb30 girdle i would drill and tap the m6 holes required to adapt them. Ive seen a few rb30det build ups by a few workshops who fab up ally crank scrapers and do that...drill and tap holes in girdle so they can bolt them straight on. Plus it was a recomendation by SK too, so its worth while if you have them.

rb25 head BOOOOOO!

goddamit! what if they extrude honed it TWICE! Obviously you can only go so far with it. Yeh i wonder what a 6boost manifold would flow...and then extrude honed?

drill slow and with lots of grease to catch the filings...and same with tapping the hole. or if the head isnt on yet...get a vacuum cleaner sucking from the water gallery that your going to drill into and hopefully pick up all the filings.

i dont know about their reputation....and they dont exactly get spoken about on here alot. How long exactly have they been around for?

i know where your coming from neill but the 26 head is born and bred for racing...its better straight off...and as disco said we can sell off the parts were not going to be using anymore. Im in love with the std 26 inlet side...always have been. I cant see why the coilpacks cant be used and cas if its all bolt up....then its just injection which can either be ovecome with using new top feeds and getting the resistor pack for the high to low impedence conversion...or if we get the autronic in time that may not be a problem. new exhaust manifold and bingo. unless im forgetting something.