r33_racer

and by 10mm bolts do you guys mean the m6(10mm head) bolts of which there are 3 not 4. two at the back and 1 at the front i believe. Youve just undone the headstuds and removed everything in sight, and the bitch still wont come off...then your 13 yr old brother handing you spanners says...it wouldnt be those m6 bolts holding the head down would it? haha...ohh funny but frustrating times.....

i thought she said it was in darwin??? are we all talking about the samething here? or am i lost?

Im with Azzurra on this one.

because clearly good quarters says alot. Anyone can go fast at drags...just need lots of money. About the whole principal...you want someone who now owns the car to pay you some obscene amount of money so they can get it retuned to a more then likely better state. Especially if they have modified the car further? What makes you so good? Or what makes you think your so good?

its not a front grill copy one from old mate down the road....umm ARE. But then again arc probably dont even know he exists. Except that looks dead straight, Richards are curved to suit that front section.

the rear camshaft seals is what he means. Half moon that slips in the back half moon cutout...but by the sounds of it the new rocker cover seals have them built in now. Good idea nissan!

as said just goto your local bearing shop for all that stuff. Gates belts are like 90 bux, idler and tensioner is around 80-120(depends where you go), most seals around a few buxs each normally...as stated cam seals and front oil pump seal are the same.

satanic you would be the first that ive heard of with no mucking around with sard injectors as they have never been a bolt in plug n play type. Ive fitted three sets to rb25's and each time we needed the collars and had to rewire the plugs to suit their own...two sets of 550cc and one set of 850cc. So unless they have changed it recently, they are still a stuff around in comparison to a nismo injector. I thought i read somehow a while back that the sards are a direct replacement for some toyota engines, thats why we needed the collars and plugs to suit.

Those camshaft cap bolts are only m6 bolts probably grade 8. My old man snapped a few and just replace them with some grade 12 allen head cap socket bolts..way way overkill but he just cut them down to the same size as std...no problems.

ok sorry...my bad on their location...dont know why i thought melbourne. Really you think $15-20 difference is large?? Last time i checked nengun, 180 bux delivered...isnt proengines $160 plus postage? or is that included.

yep...time for rb30det then....for the power fix anyway.

for starters you dont need the instructions, so whether english or ninja it doesnt really matter...as SK said any descent machine shop should know what to do straight off. The prices these days are almost exactly the same...about 15 bux in it...but delivery from melbourne would be quicker then from japan obviously.

better to overkill it then be borderline Especially if you can afford it easily enough.

not that i have sorry. Our tuner used one on one of their customers drift cars.

and by overseas do you mean chinese?

you can put the oil restrictors in with no worries....we had 1 x 1.5 and the other blocked off.

I believe that the plastic bung with the hose tail on it on the side of the rocker cover has a one way ball bearing valve in it, so when on boost or any positive pressure it stays closed and only opens during vacuum. Either way its a bad thing having the engine ingest oil vapours, and its also possible if the valve shits itself and gets stuck open you can get serious blow by and lots of wasted power....even though its not really blow by.

I know some people use rb25 11mm headstuds, and if the locking nut position is going to be a problem then i suppose some form of self centring washer would work, we could machine something up for that...thats not really a major hurdle that i would be worried about...more like the injection/ignition side. A new exhaust manifold isnt an issue either as kyle would make us up one for that. Also i know apexi make a cast manifold that has both rb25 and rb26 holes in the flanges...multipurpose. Is the injector spacings in the plenum the same as a rb25? So if i could adapt the sidefeed rail to the top feed rail mountings on a 26 would they line up correctly? So disco you are saying the coilpack placement in the head is different to the rb25 placement? Could you use a rb25 coilpack two piece bracket to get around it if so? Or did they fark it completely so i cant do what i want with this?

yeh right... well just incase your not joking, rb20,25,26 all came with factory fitted recirculatory bovs.

Hi Octane maybe? But nengun and greenline if they have them would be your best and cheapest bet.

ahh i see. University hey. Should be nearly done by now? For the year i mean. Not intentional...geez i thought you were being, just to piss in my pants.

Your right into stating the obvious nowadays hey Cubes?

Ok, here is the predicament. If we are to goto a rb26 head on our new 30 further on down the track. What absolutely has to change in order for it to work. Obviously we are looking at changing the bare minimum, so we can retain the powerfc and loom till we get an autronic later on. Can we use rb25 ignition setup as we sport s2 coil packs. Are the bolt up patterns the same? My experience with nissan tells me they might. Obviously we want the std cold side of the head, so is it possible to use our side feed injectors if we can adapt the rail to the 26 plenum? Or is this a big task or not possible incase someone has already done this. The other things im not sure about are the sensors that are in the plenum? Can they be switched for rb25 ones so we dont have to go rewiring stuff or messing with the loom. Does the throttle cable need to be altered or should it be fine? CAS? are they the same or will something need to happen there? I cant think of anything else other then we will need a new exhaust manifold. Any and all help is appreciated. Cheers.

surely is. I have one down in the shed its a laser cut t3 tigged onto a laser cut t4 with studs screwed in to each side.

Even cast manifolds crack.