r33_racer

methanol at 15bux a litre...man yours is expensive...ours is $1 a litre. We run the water/meth injection to keep knock down, cool the inlet charge and stabilise the fuel so it doesnt try to preignite. That with Shell 100 ron and its a damn good combo.

well up here in qld there have been a few people blowing seals out at the track...gt30s and 35s alike. Alot of people are now starting to run an inline restrictor that sits right before the cartridge one. I think its about 40psi of oil pressure is the max required for the turbo. Does that sound right disco?

yes rub it in cubes... You know how everyones always flow testing inlet manifolds...I would like to see one of kyles manifolds flow tested to see in comparison with the chinese ones and std, along with the extrude honed ones like UAS did. Does anyone have an answer to my rb26 inlet manifold question please?

Yes i think we're about to find that out the hard way now. Scrap rb25 heads and go for the 26 ones...solid followers, better inlet system, sodium filled valves. Much better platform to build on.

i have no idea whats wrong with your rb30's but at 8000-8500 our rb30 was still making power...no signs of tapering off at all. But we have a greddy plenum which ive heard does that....same poncams as everyone else too. But i wouldnt think its just the plenum allowing our rb30 to make power past 6500 would it? So does the rb26 plenum not have any such problems as its more like a holding tank as the throttle butterflies are right infront of the ports.

Yeh i recall that movie...alien series is pretty good. Has anyone actually seen bloodsport apart from me and my mates? It was a mad 80's movie, 88 i think it came out in with jean claude van damme as Frank Dux, a ninja gone to fight in a underground ancient martial arts tournament pitting the worlds best fighters against eachother. I think i need to add that i also love Beverly Hills Cop trilogy. And onto the rods cant you get a set of spool rods for like 1g or thereabouts. Thats a good price. And bolt up straight away, no machining, maybe just the small end bush for the gudgeon pin.

less rotating mass, means revs drop off faster then usual...when you back off for a second (std flywheel) the moving mass takes longer to slow down then a lightened one, so your at a benefit of being at a higher rpm when your back on the gas. Thats the way i understood it anyway.

disco....i have no idea what that means! Are you drunk???

actually our new engine isnt finished yet...still sorting out dry sump system.

yes yes...everyone knows about their achievements...and how the aftermarket block and head designs used in drag racing are based of theirs...blah blah blah...i just dont like them...so i say silly things like that. I like to be ignorant sometimes.

jun ones arent 300 bux...theyve come way down since then... about $185.00 delivered from nengun now. We got ours from Hi Octane about 6-8 months ago for about $250.

hey sorry i cant make it tonight....went to the coast and got stuck in crappy traffic on the way back...just got home now. By the time i get there if i left now it would be about 8ish. My apologies.

MOPAR=Mostly Old Parts And Rust! Dodge, Chrysler, whatever can go cram their crappy american cars up you know where. Americans cant make cars, and the same can almost be said about poms.

got a pic of the oil pump mods done so far for the dry sump setup. We used a slightly modified rb25 front head return as our main feed with -10 fittings, coincidently the std return has the same id as -10 so it worked out well. We cut the top off the oil pump and i tigged up the hole. Quite abit of stuffing around checking belt clearance, damper clearance, swaybar and the rest...but it looks like it will work. The cut down aircon bracket to hold the pump. I will post better pics when it is fully finished. It just needs some tags to pick up the adjusting bolt for the slide tensioning if you get what i mean.

and you said your going with two 1.5mm restrictors for the 26 head when std they have one 2mm restrictor. Your actually encouraging more oil to goto the head then std. Stick with the one 1.5 hey and leave the back one blocked off....or is it the front one?

std bearings perhaps if nothing has been machined as said above.

yeh while on that...does anyone know of anybody else in australia that does extrude honing? Or are we stuck with only UAS, no offence to them.

thats where i stand as well Scooby. Hopefully SLY33 will be able to share his experience with this when his is all setup.

gudgeon pin maybe??? I have no idea but im guessing the small end bush is wrong size perhaps?

500 bux hey...seems good enough to me...might hold off until you find out what sort of increase it achieves if any.

yeh extrude honing maybe the go. Anyone have any idea what it costs to get an rb25 manifold done?

my ideas better...get the 26 idea originally and get it extrude honed too!!! Thats gotta top the greddy idea fo shizzle.

on those gts-r manifolds...how thick is the stainless used in those? Also what grade and what type of s/s? Being a good quality one id assume either 316 grade austenitic.

ability to rev...pffft. I just wanted two camshafts

Heres my idea, make an exact replica or if possible improve on the factory rb26 manifold with mutliple throttle bodies and make that for rb20 and 25's. Better yet, make a kit so you can use the std rb26 manifold but retain 25 sensors and injectors and its all bolt up with some adapter plate and the rest of it.....ill buy one if you do.