r33_racer

I know kylies manifolds arent tuned length...they are close but not spot on. He made one tuned length and one normal and did back to back testing and found no difference in power, lag, temperatures or back pressure, just abit more added weight to get some of the runners the same length. From what i gather so long as the merge point is seamlessly smooth and doesnt induce turbulence so you get one lot of gas running directly into another lot of gas like in my crappy s/s xsforce manifold then there shouldnt be any problems with it. My crappy one that ive had for a good year or more stupidly has no.3 running straight up into the collector towards the flange which is great however no.2 comes straight in from the side of the collector runs directly into no.3's exhaust stream. As a result stainless being stainless with its shithouse ability to dissipate heat, that section of the collector and the affected runners localise all that turbulent heat and go white and build up and im getting bad back pressure and its causing my wastegate to fluctuate and when it all gets hot enough its recking my motors power making ability Quick question. Has anyone had their std manifold extrude ported or honed? Whatever you call it. You know that place in Sydney that was doing it to the rb26 factory manifolds, and showing the flow differences between s/s a/m ones and their honed factory ones.

You know fellas everyone is entitled to an opinion. You dont have to come out with the harsh comments and cracks...to me thats getting rather immature and unneccesary, even for you josh. Im not having a go at you, or anyone else just stating its gone from a civil argument to stupidly slanderous remarks.

these days they can be tuned to around 300rwkws or a tad over. If you cant get higher its either faulty or your tuner is lacking skills

Ok so further inspection has revealed that tomei have started making them again apparently and will be readily available soon. In case anyone is curious.

man isnt this turning into a mission and a half. While were on this subject does anyone know the rough power rating of a gt30r with .63 rear. What hp worth of airflow can it produce? Is it 500hp worth? or 450? Cause isnt the big 1.02/1.06 whichever it is capable of 600hp.

Real life Initial D kinda stuff like all the cool kids in sports cars in Japan do that you see on those dvds. Dangerous but fun. Would give a really good adrenalin rush, I know i got one last time i did a hardcore attempt at Mt Nebo.

actually isnt std bore size 86mm i believe 86.5mm is first oversize(20 thou over). Im pretty sure i veryneared (verniered )measure the rb30 bore before we got it opened up for the new CPs and it was spot on 86mm. As 87mm is final oversize i think.

ohh yeh...thats the way to do it. I would like to build a spaceframe r34 or r32 gtr but in gtst form. rb30det in it with holinger 6 speed. take the whole front end off after undoing like 6 zues clips and have free accesss to everything in the engine bay with shitloads of room for your big hands and big arms to swing spanners and do stuff. man i gotta stop dreaming.

haha yeh...well we had blown a turbo and then were rushing to fit the new one, plus oil dramas. That was one mad insane and expensive day, plus hot it was really warm. It had to have been the worst weekend ever that year.

just in round numbers what was the price of your pistons and rods?

now you just need to pull it out and put a rb30det in there.....out of curiousity what does it weigh in std trim?

hey at the last sprints was that you and some mates all hanging around a r32 with the bonnet up in the carpark behind the pits??? Cause we were loading up the race car after we spun the bearings and there was a 32 that looks suspiciously like yours in the sig.

i dont fully grasp how they have the right to lock your ecu and 'own' the code so to speak. Regardless of what they think, its your ecu, car and everything else. Cant you take em to court or something, perhaps threaten them....maybe eliminate another shitty tuning mob from the scene cause god damn we know there are too many out there already.

haha in qld if you do the baffled sump and oil control mods...you still spin bearings. DSS now for us up here. (Dry Sump Syndrome) not even gtrs either, just gtsts.

God i love that 10,000rpm....ohh man that is sweet. Just read some of the comments on youtube...what a bunch of wankers on there. They have no idea what they are on about. Its like a bunch of 17 year old kids who watch Initial D and think they know everything about cars. What a joke.

got the plug for the igniter plugged into the loom at the back of the head properly, same with the injector loom and injector plugs...have you checked the line for fuel coming out while cranking, if not perhaps pump, maybe fuse gone?

you know if you could get some freebies somehow...you could make a fortune selling "2nd hand, but brand new like genuine parts" on here haha. Still expensive though to replace them whole set. So far from nengun a set of solids is about 530 delivered, springs are like 440 delivered and then just shims.

we're in brisbane mate. Yeh we would like to stick with hydraulics if possible to simplify it, but at a last resort goto solids if we cant get away with it.

well we had 365rwkws before we spun a few bearings. But with full slicks same size as supercars use 280X680X17" we could spin them in 1st, 2nd and 3rd that was with a gt35r with .82 rear running 1.5bar. Thats when the tyres were upto operating temps too...the power was really savage in that it was coming on really really hard, also had the water inj too. We run shell 100 octane, stage 1 tomei cams, greddy plenum and 6boost hotside. And you want to run a .63 rear gt35r. I think the best variation for a track car would be the 1.02 rear for the gt35r, unless there is something slightly bigger from hks above the .82 but below the 1.02 cause its still abit snappy when you have descent power. Plus some form of throttle controlled boost as stated a while back would be great.

if the pistons give a std cr...then with that gasket you would be around 8.6:1 roughly. A 1.6mm hg gives a 8.5:1CR.

I know there was a thread around a little while ago about noisey lifters or the sort. We have a few busted lifters out of the rb25/30. Weve bled them all out and some already bled themsevles out and are just plain loose in that they push in and out just with a light jiggle up and down. So all in all we have something like 6-7 stuffed lifters, and we figured lets try nissan. Bottom line is they want $102.00 each. Lets check our maths out, say for 7 lifters thats $714! The thought originally had crossed our minds about replacing all of them while were at it, since its a race motor, no good having something old or secondhanish in there, all new would be the way to go right? Well $2448 for a full set of 24 lifters is just down right rude. You can damn near build a budget rb30det for that much, buy a new awesome turbo, a rb25 gearbox with change, a full set of slicks with change, a dry sump setup nearly...god knows what else and probably with change. What other options are available? Obviously solid conversion. But how much does that cost and who makes the kit as i dont think tomei do it anymore. Would it then be fine to run with our tomei stage 1 poncams? Perhaps someone knows of an engineering company that makes replacement lifters for a normal price. I know there is some american company who makes them for $18 each, but it takes months to get a set. Have heard that ca18's use the same lifters, but id bet they cost they same as rb ones. Has anyone gone through this exercise before and could possibly help? Muchly appreciated in advance.

or if you have handy welding skills you can tack a bit of rod or something to the end of the stud and use that to undo it. Abit hard and tricky but can be done.

or buy yourself an easyout set so if you do break some off just drill into the stud and easyout it out...sometimes if your lucky the stud will break but not actually be stuck in the head and you can unscrew it by pushing the other half back onto it and letting it grip it as you unscrew it and enough can come out so that you can grip it by hand or tool to finish it off.

pfft...you dont need awd to be fast.

im not josh...but im pretty sure it was a twin turbo rb25 right?