r33_racer

a single plate clutch will do the trick as you probably wont be going over 300rwkws. But if you are or do then yeh a twin plate maybe in the equation. You may not need a manifold either as you can use the std one but grab one of AM-PERFORMANCEs external wastegate adapters. A bigger fuel pump is a must. Grab nismo injectors as they are direct bolt in...no bullshit like with sards.

Yeh thanks for that neill...definetely will look into that issue before we get it all going. Dont want to take the risk with the new stuff on the new engine.

dont know the torque nor do i have a dyno sheet but it made 360rwhp on 18psi. Id love to know how he made 410rwhp on 15psi.

yeh it did seem to stretch out abit more then the skyline....but the power delivery is like nothing ive felt before......we were like 3rd gear 1500rpm and he goes like half throttle and then bam its like a jet turned on and were doing 80 from about 30km/h....fricken awesome so much more power down low and only from 9psi. Lots of wheelspin, but it was raining this morning so it was hard to get a real appreciation of the power and acceleration. Will definetely hit him up for a ride one day in the dry hehe Also just a side note the car is the biggest sleeper....looks like your average commo all stockish looking just lowered. The only give away is the fmic and piping. I spose the massive whine from the blower might be a tad suspect...then the screamer well hell once that goes off then you know it aint some stocko commo.

I got a ride in Macgyers(StockyMcStock) car today.....woot for me and him and his twin charged car....it is the shit i tell you. The rain was lame though. Jealous Cubes???

with our old rb25 with 256 poncams and usual mods full boost was around 4300-4500 that was about 1.3 bar.

Running in, no we didnt bother with it as we cant drive it on the street and you cant go easy in a race. We did several hours of running it through the rev range and they did abit of running in on the dyno before tuning for a few hours for us. The maintenance plan is a strip down every 12 months and replace worn or suspect parts...bearings, rings or seals and such. So its not as crucial as a road engine that you dont want to touch for at least another 5-10 years.

Acl race series bearings all throughout the engine. haha and we got about 1000-1500kms out of it.

I dont know the clearances mate. The bloke who did all the machining checked all the clearances and inspected everything after he did everything and he reckoned everything was spot on. I think my old man checked em also...but im not positive on that one. But we didnt just slap it all together and go hard with it. After some thought we think the overall failure was due to a minor oil loss we had a few races ago when the alloy threaded part where your filter screws onto on the water/oil cooler broke off and we lost about 2 litres, however the oil pressure light never came on and there was no knocking or any sign of bearing damage. But it was still possible that during that time if any damage was gonna happen it would have been then. Since that time i guess its just gotten worse and then suddenly the pressure dropped enough to kill the turbo and eventually spin a bunch of bearings. We had noticed the pressure drop, but our oil pressure was always too high 120psi after 3000-3500 and since that time it came back to about 90psi 3000-3500 which is supposed to be about normal for an N1.

yes we are using a high energy circuit sump it has one day trap doors that only let oil in but not out, i dont see how it could starve it of oil. Oil capacity in the sump is about 8 odd litres also, so there is a fair bit more in there then std. But it is possible. Yes they were acl race series mains and conrod bearings. The mains were farked, but ok farked...the conrods were just non existent.

Alright. We got the motor out tonight and pulled the sump and pump off. First thing we noticed is the massive amount of bearing strips all throughout the sump and block. The pickup was clogged entirely with them and there was patches stuck to parts of the block. I havent had a chance to pull the pump apart to inspect the gears inside, but the backing plate is still on tight and the drive part of the gear is still fully intact with no cracking. The outer ring may be stuffed though. I will fully pull it apart on the weekend to see for sure if it is the pump. So if it isnt the pump then our only other guess is bearings. Weve heard numerous reports of acl bearings failing out at the track, apparently alot of the historic racers have been spinning acl bearings. If anyone has anything to comment on my idea so far then please do. As it stands the crank is pretty severely scored as are the conrods. Infact some of the conrods have no bearings in them at all They can slop around about 3-4mm each way. I took a few quick pictures, they are abit crappy as the battery was dying so i rushed them. I will take better ones on the weekend when i have more time and post them. The blurry pic of the bearing in my hand is not the thrust bearing...its a normal bearing thats deformed and shaped itself in a thrust looking one, the same goes for pretty much the rest of them too.

9 times out of 10 that is normally the case. We just got some yokohama slicks 250 wide and they are almost the same size as our 265 dunlops. There was a few mm in the difference. What they advertise and what they actually are tend to be two different things.

we never saw limiter. done everything we could have to minimise the possibility of an oil pump failure. From talking to a few people and what ive read on here, the n1 pump gear is too hard and therefore brittle as stated before, they shatter too easily. Not only that the backing plates can and do rattle off easily as well if not locitited on. So apparently the n1 pumps do have inherent problems in their design. The aftermarket pumps(tomei jun) have gears constructed of a different material to make them more malleable so they dont crack but rather bend. I will know tonight what caused ours to fail.

didnt want to wait the few weeks from japan....Sards are normally always in the country a day away on overnight freight. But anyother time would definetly go nismo items for thats true bolt on awesomeness.

is there a vacuum line on the fuel reg on a 26? if so is it split by any chance? Im a 25 man, just taking a stab in the dark haha...ya never know

haha there you go...Alf has all the answers

i dont think there is actually anything wrong with the turbo itself...its big and heavy and oldschool design. Mine didnt actually stuff up permenantly, my mate pulled it apart and cleaned the carbon build up out of it and put it back together and its now on his turbocharged xe falcon, 250xflow with a t70 and it is actually half quick now. Big sleeper haha.

yep same with our sards...side feed on rb25 had to rewire the plugs. Then the bottom of the silly plugs were fouling on the manifold and we had to shave the arse off abit so they would clip on properly. Note thats on a greddy manifold incase anyone else goes to put them on using the std fuel rail. Shane you sure yours are 800cc, cause i check our sard boxes for the injectors we put into the 25/30 and it clearly states 850cc unless im blind or the boxes are wrong? Maybe top feed and side feed are different?

wouldnt some loctite sealer be the way to go.

not all timing belts will have marks on them. Besides, having the timing belt marks line up isnt that important, thats only for help. The important thing is that both and intake and exhaust wheels are lined up with their respective marking on the back cover and your crank belt gear is lined up with the notch in the oil pump when no1 is at TDC. Im pretty sure the belts are all the same for rb20, 25 and 26 all 141T belts. Someone might want to check me on that too. You havent got your camshafts in arse about have you?

yeh i think motecs and autronics have that feature built in, if something goes over a preset warning value it shuts off the engine completely to save it from harm. I know alot of sprint car racers and even circuit racers have a kill switch hooked inline to the oil pressure switch which craved is talking about so it kills the engine if pressure drops to nothing. I think we wish we had that now haha Well my motor is nearly ready to go back in my car so hopefully thursday/friday the rb30det will be out and getting stripped down....we found a strip of steel/tin in the oil, looks like its from a bearing... Oh also cubes...things we would do differently... Well our tuner wants us to run a flat 8:1CR. Id like to run 9:1, but they like it lower to help keep the knock down, so can run more timing and boost. Will definetely do all the oil control mods that SK listed properly, instead of letting my old man half arse them cause he thinks he knows better haha, umm defintealy run conrods with oil squirters and thats about it so far that i can think of. Will probably come up with more as we put it back together.

yeh were considering all these options. But first thing is to strip it down and find out exactly what it was thats done it. Could be end of week by that time cause my rb25 is still on the engine stand taking up space.

as in completely stop and cant turn it anymore at all as if its actually hit something or as in its become alot harder to turn as its building compression and resisting the rest of the stroke? If you reckon you got it setup at tdc and the timing gears are on the money with the backcover marks then it should be good. maybe go back and double or triple check everything. You are referring to number 1 piston at tdc right?

I had one also on my rb25 and didnt see full boost till about 4800-5000rpm...was a mass lag monster. On 17psi i made 350rwhp with supporting mods and all, no cams though. then it ceased up cause the shitty oil line i used got blocked up and starved the turbo of oil. Now have a gt3040 with .63 rear, much much better

i guess you could say an external pump is the same or similar to running dry sump. hmm $1101.89 for JUN oil pump delivered from nengun.