Tim_zenki

Tell me about it

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of rail are you running ?

SO, after seeing all that, where i'm at right now is getting the head and block machined and cleaned etc, bore to 86.5 most likely after seeing those cly walls just to be safe..anyone have any specific things i should have done to the block/head as far as machining and cleaning etc that has to be done at a machine shop? much appreciated

Well, if anyones wondering why i haven't posted in a while , its cause i took my engine apart...you know just to double check on some things and was not happy with what i found ..whoever had it before, wasnt taking good care of it. Feast your eyes lol

Okay Ive got a couple of questions for you guys that know your stuff. 1. I have no idea where this goes to, i think its for one of the lines that goes to the carbon canister but ive got rid of all of the hardlines on the rb as well as the two that was for the carbon canister. Can this just be capped off? or left open? and what are the effects..its only on this one itb and it doesnt look as if it goes to the valves... 2.Has anyone seen this setup before? looks like it goes to the balance tube. but...theres three plugs? and if it does or doesnt go to the balance tube. what do people who get an fittings for their valve cover do with the port on the balance tube that has a restrictor that came from one of the ports of the valve cover..looks like it was for blowby maybe? idk.

Got my Tomei Gaskets in the mail

thanks man!, and hey , how are those ID1000 treating you? im thinking about getting those as well as a twin feed fuel rail.

So small update, got the plenum and cam covers powder coated, I've ordered the Tomei gaskets for the intake side because of the factory ones history of blowing and im not trying to deal with any of that ! but yeah, i threw on the engine for photos and to keep them from getting scratched but they will be coming off once i get the parts to build the head and block. Here are some photos, hope you guys like. oh and I have the Greddy Oil filter sandwhich plate with the ports for and oil cooler and 2 sensors and i was just wondering if anyone here has the same setup, because i wanted to know if i have the two an lines pointing towards front of engine, do they clear the oem mounts? thanks alot guys!

....well atleast it only took like 10 mins lol .time to put back together haha. thanks for clearing that up man

the vanes are just the little shims inside the gear?

I think its pretty hard to get hands on a r33 gtr pump in states, but ill look into finding one. thanks alot

i checked out the link. I get what your saying about the Y pipe being the inlet from the reservior, and the two at the top are outlets for the rack. now when you started talking about the rear outlets report to the Hicas solenoid on drivers chassis rail, i dont think i have one of those since car doesnt have hicas from factory (240sx s14). I can go snap a picture of my steering rack if that helps?

I took the pump apart and removed what i thought was the gears..heres some pictures http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y446/Tim_Zenki/rb26%20ps%20pump/photo3_zpsb8ef748a.jpg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y446/Tim_Zenki/rb26%20ps%20pump/image_zps6e06cff7.jpeg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y446/Tim_Zenki/rb26%20ps%20pump/image1_zps5cc67529.jpeg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y446/Tim_Zenki/rb26%20ps%20pump/image2_zps951bebf3.jpeg http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y446/Tim_Zenki/rb26%20ps%20pump/photo11_zpsa712572a.jpg i figured these were the hicas gears ? http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y446/Tim_Zenki/rb26%20ps%20pump/photo21_zps911e4ca7.jpg so i basically gutted the pump and then put it all back together without the gears. is that what everyone does?

so you removed the vains and capped off the hicas port?

car doesnt have hicas from factory.

ill post a picture of my pump so i can have a better understanding of what your saying but basically theres the two bolts on top of the pump that i would use regardless, and then theres the y pipe outlet that is used for the hicas from my understanding? and your saying to take off the y pipe and loop them together with no outlet?

Hey guys, Ive been doing some reading and I've heard all sorts of things people have done to get rid of the hicas system on rb26's when swapped into a car that doesnt have hicas. A couple of ideas floating around are replacing crank and p/s pump with a rb25 crank n pump, something about turning the hicas part into a power steering cooler?, and last, taking apart the pump and removing all the hicas internals and then closing and sealing it up, but i heard this can cause your pump to grenade..so dont want to go down that route. I would rather keep using the 26 pump and mod it to where the hicas part is for a power steering cooler, but if no one knows what im talking about with that then i guess i could get a 25 crank n pump. Any ideas or past experiences would be greatly appreicated ! thanks alot guys!

but that probably wont happen cause 2 car trailers are ridiculous expensive haha, but hey, there are people out there that win races all the time with setups that arent as good as other you know. so ill take my chances with 26+s14 chassis

Yeah , I understand how much of a difference it makes when your actually moving etc, but Im a die hard rb fan, love sr too but die hard rb fan. and also in the states rb swaps arent everywhere so the want for it is more so then caring for the cons of the swap. I dont intend on running this motor + car setup for long. just to set a good base for me. Im planning on doing another 240 build but with an sr for when i get serious.

idk if this is a noob question but umm whats TAF mean? lol hope its good!? and thanks, Not about that Ls life. however i will be using Ls2 truck coils. and yes. I will be addressing those issues for sure! If this is something I feel like you guys enjoy reading up on, im going to try my best to keep it updated 24/7 for sure mate.

and then theres the added fact that im more for the motor then the car. I have future plans to pull the motor out of my 14 and put it in a r32 when they can be brought over without no problem you know?

XKLABA, Logically your right. Sr20det would be a better balanced engine for my chassis but its such a common swap in the states its just like why even do the swap now. I dont want to fit in , I wanted to be unique. Yes the Rb will make my car nose heavy. but that can be fixed. let alone the difference is barely different honestly.. just about the same as having a full tank of gas and having an empty tank you know? Plus i love Rb motors. No intentions on doing awd. not alot of people here do the srvet swap. we have a couple that will use the vet head but thats about it as far as ive seen.

wish you guys were in states, could use a s chassis cage at the moment

absolutely love this!