Hermit_

Get better friends As R33_Nick mentioned before, getting a pod filter or even a high flowing filter for your stock airbox (such as the popular K&N filter) will give you a more efficient power source. If your exhaust is a cat-back only then getting a turbo back exhaust system with a high flowing catalytic converter will improve things even more. Most engines works better when they can breath better, on both the intake and exhaust sides. Some engines need restrictions but a RB25DET will be better with less restricting "breathing". Since you already have a Front Mount Intercooler then you may as well spend the money that you were going to spend on the BOV on upgrading theinduction and exhaust side of things first. After that, then you can start shovelling in money as your quest for more power, traction and handling etc etc grows. Keep asking in here " There are no stupid questions, only those that are not asked". Your friend was right though, the more noise from the exhaust the more power there is, just see those loud Hyundai Excel exhausts. Those cars are beasts, especially with the frangipani stickers on them! Hermit...

Bugger.

The simple answer is: if your Blow Off Valve has any adjustment mechanism on it then yes you can adjust the valve to suit whatever amount of pressure that you would like to release. The amount is dependant on what you want to do, so no-one else can answer that except you. A mechanic and/or tuner will help you in this respect after you have worked out what you want to do and why you are doing it. Why are you thinking of putting a atmospheric Blow off valve? They are illegal and generally make a standard vehicle run erratically but they do sound fooly sik maaaayte. On a highly modified vehicle they have their place but add little to a basically stock engine. If thats what you're after then go for it, remembering that the change will have consequences. The type of intercooler won't make a difference unless you're also changing the position of the BOV. If you're just mounting it on the stock RB25 position then just make sure that it clears the bonnet and that you also remember to block off the return pipe from the stock BOV. The type of exhaust that you have fitted will not make a difference to the type of BOV fitted. Does that clear things up a little for you? Hermit...

If you're going to replace fanbelts etc then you may as well replace the tensioner bearing also. If you're going to replace the timing belt then you may as well replace the water pump as it's cheaper in the long run with the labour costs and it's a part that if it fails, it can cause a lot of damage. Check thermostat housing for corrosion and if there is corrosion on it then also check under the intake manifold for all the various cooling and heater hose aluminium connections/nipples (hmmmmm nipples ). If there's corrosion on some aluminium parts then there's a good chance that there will be others corroding away. Try and use original nissan coolant as it's not as corrosive as other coolants. Reverse flush the whole cooling system: cleans out the heater core. Pressure test also. Engine flush: Cleans out oil deposits and other gunk. Brake fluid flush and replace: brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water. Not good for brake systems. This is important especially if you live near water or in high humidity areas. You can also get your fluid tested at regular service intervals. Check brake lines and vaccuum hoses to brake booster. Actually check all vacuum lines and intake hoses from turbo to intake manifold. Same goes for clutch fluid, and power steering. Check hoses for cracking and brittleness. Replace as necessary or if you want to be safe, replace them all anyway. Go on eBay and buy a whole silicon hose kit and put pretty blue or red hoses throughout the engine bay Change oxgen sensor, water temp sensor and oil pressure sensor if you want to be really really sure, just like the irishman who puts on two condoms, to be shure, to be shure! Check fuel lines, change fuel filter, check fuel pressure regulator (replace if you think like an irish gigolo). Check battery acid level and age. There are testers for this. Decent workshops should have a multitude of testers some may even have a scan tool to plug into the ECU to test for any fault codes. Put it on your list of things for them to do. Check other electrical bits for fraying, wearing, discolouration of covers/wires etc etc. Change oil in transmission, and diff. Flush it if you can. Check/change universal bearings, pivot bearings, wheel bearings. Check suspension and steering bearings, bushings, pivots, arms etc etc etc. Basically anything that moves, make sure it moves correctly, anything that isn't supposed to move, check to make sure it doesn't move. If you're talking a _MAJOR_ service then thats what I'd be doing at least. Getting a workshop to do it may put the cost up over the $1K mark ( especially with replacing most things) but if you make a list and check a lot of the easier bits yourself then it's a lot cheaper. It's not as hard if you just go through it logically and use common sense. If you check things yourself, make a list and tell the workshop what you did and what you found. They won't take responsibility for anything that goes wrong if they didn't check it themselves. There's plenty of sites and tutorials around online. They'll save you money and you'll feel good about doing it yourself. (maybe, this isn't guarenteed and some people just shouldn't touch mechanical things. If you are one of these people, work hard for money and pay someone who likes to touch mechanical things). Hope that helps, Hermit_

There's a few ways to get around this. One way is to find some nuts with a 17mm head (in standard 11x1.25 wheel nut size. this fits most nissans) . This means that a 17mm socket will fit into the gap. Get a cheap bar and 17mm socket and you can then change your wheel on the side of the road if you have to. Another way is to get a set of lock nuts. These nuts require a "special" key to remove them and they fit into the middle of the nut which means lots of clearance. The key usually takes a 19mm socket and so you'll have to get a socket and bar or find a wheel brace with a 19mm head. The problem that I found with buying the lock nut set is that they come in sets of 16 and you need 20 nuts (for a R33 GTS-T - 5 wheel nuts per wheel are required). You can either buy 2 sets or buy 4 17mm head wheel nuts as well. The set of 16 lock nuts cost me $29.95 from Malz. Supercheap, coventries and repco all didn't have anything to suit. Most tyre places can get them for you but the cost may be a little bit more, depends on the retailer. I had some 17mm nuts so I just put one lock nut with 4 17mm nuts on the left rear wheel. One plus is that it then means that your wheels are harder to steal, just make sure that you don't lose the key and also hide it in the car so that any thieves don't find it. Hope that helps, Hermit...

/delurk Nothing's too girly if you're a girl!! Otherwise, IMO, if you have to have undercar neons, do it properly and fill the whole underside of the vehicle with light, not just two tubes that you bought on special from Kmart. Neons (and other non-essential vehicle lighting), can look good if they're done properly , safely and legally. /lurk Hermit_

and there's the starting line to Skyln's erotic book....

To make the flare holder useful please follow these steps : Step 1: Purchase flare. Step 2: Install flare in flare holder. Step 3: Enjoy. Other ways to make the plastic circular clips useful are : Step 1: Purchase your choice of phallic shaped internal massager. Step 2: Install your choice of phallic shaped internal massager into the plastic clips. Note : Clips may need to be altered to suit the shape and size of your choice of massager. Step 3: Enjoy. Step 1: Aquire a Police Baton. Step 2: Install Police Baton into plastic circular clips. Step 3: Enjoy. I hope that helps. For more information or other ideas please feel free to reply. Hermit_

If you're going to change the engine then you "have" to go over the pits anyway, (if you want to be legal). Changing the enging number means an inspection and if you;re also changing from a manual to auto you'll need to have that inspected and noted on your registration papers. It probably won't make a difference to the average cop who pulls you over and looks under the bonnet but if you ever have an accident then you're in a world of trouble with the insurance companies. They won't pay out on any claim as you car would be deemed to be unroadworthy and also to have illegal modifications. A hawk eyed cop could also give you an infringement for not having the correct information on your registration papers and then could put either a yellow or red sticker on your car. To avoid a lot of hassle you may find it better to get an engineers report on the conversion also. The many compliance workshops could do this and would cost around $300.00 or so, about the same amount of money that you'd save by de-registering the car Hermit...

My 2 yen/cents (at current exchange rates) : You should have no troubles with the licencing of an import that has a compliance plate fitted and has previously been registered in WA. It's the same as licencing a Toyota Corolla made in Japan (or maybe some other country). It is an imported vehicle that has to be modified to Australian Standards and have a compliance plate fitted before being allowed to be registered, basically the same process that your stagea went through. The important things that the inspectors would look at is if the vehicle has been repaired correctly and is roadworthy and legal. If you think that it will take 6 months or more (and it's usually always more if you do it yourself) then I'd take off the plates and save the money. If/when it is able to be driven on the road for either inspection or to get work done to it then just pay $14.50 for a vehicle movement permit from the Department of Planning and Infrastructure which will last for 48 hours. Just keep a copy of your registration papers to give to the inspectors (if they want it( just to make things easier. They can find out all the information on your vehicle from the VIN, or engine number or old registration number anyway. HTH's Hermit_ (finally posting after 2 years;) )