FST513

That's because i know Well Elinchrom - 17" or 27". Alien Bee - 22" - Speedotron - 22" - Kacey Enterprises - 22" - Profoto - 20.5" - Barely anyone you meet will be using profoto unless you meet pro's (way to exxy!) Thats about all i can remember off the top of my head.

22" is hung mmkkayy Most BD's are 22".

Thanks mate! You do?! Wow, you must have money Saw you at superlap also. I got a few photos of you there in the 32GTR. P.S. Your car will be in Hot4s next issue (196) from the SAU shoot AGES ago to palm beach. Just a reminder!

Project 365 for Week 26. Happy Sunday!

Long exposure as well as the angle of the lens to the light sources.

Nice photo sidd. I think a black and white would suit this better, but only about 50% opacity. I'm liking the cross process look except for her right arm. Its so much darker than her left arm, so it makes me wonder if the skin is off, white balance is off etc etc... Also the pose seems a bit weird.. Like a "meh" look or something. But i still like it for some reason.. Good work

Sweet shots bnr! I like the shot where you zoomed. Gives a different perspective. I've only tried it once, but it didn't turn out how i expected it too. Always good to try new things man, it gives you a creative edge. So good work! My image from WTAC on the Advan Wheels website.

You can buy Alien Bee's from AB's australian distributor. Alien Bees Website All of his stuff cost about $2K. Mine cost $1700, the only things different Sidd bought was a Beauty Dish and Light stand. It's good stuff! About damn time he bought them! Been waiting almost a year for it!

This weeks Project 365 photos.

Bangaz Boy - Sweet photos mate! If i were you, i would tone down on the HDR processing on your car. Everything else is fine, but especially with your car being black, reflections are killing it. Possibly use a layer mask and the original image and merge them together, with the HDR being the background and everything and the properly exposed car in the photo instead of the HDR composite. Do you know what i mean?

Haha yeah, i got more shots of the pelicans. Biggest farken ones i've ever seen! Will post up tonight. I think my SS was about 1/1600th, you can see the rain lol. Didn't even notice that before.

Two shots from the weekend and project 365.

If your looking to buy a 50D it doesn't do HD video. Only the 5DmkII or the 1DmkIV do HD video for the semi-pro and above range and they are way out of your budget and totally not what you need. So you'll be looking at the 500D or 550D. I don't see what Rocklee means by "Most people that can't be arsed to do post processing buy a Canon". How is this true? Anyone that is serious about photography will process ALL photos, no matter what. By this statement it sounds like you are saying Canon is better just because you don't have to process. For E.g. Auto white balance is wrong 99% of the time and requires adjustment in PP software e.g. Photoshop/LR. Your thought of an eyedropper on something that "looks grey" could be right 20% of the time, but the other 80% will be wrong. So thats 1 step of processing thats universal. Anyway, getting off topic, i shoot Canon and i like how it feels in my hands and the ease of use. I found Nikon menu's to confuse me too much and too hard to navigate. Thats why i chose Canon (when i was a n00b) and i've stuck with them. They are cheaper than Nikon once you start heading into the pro level range of lenses by a mile and they are more widely available in Australia as Funkeymonkey stated. Also a lot more places RENT canon lenses than Nikon lenses. If you want to shoot off camera strobes or flashes, you'd be crazy to be triggering them through the camera using a flash. Especially because its so inconsistent in sunlight/glare/bright conditions. You would want to be buying wireless triggers for this (cactus V4's, Alien Bee cybersyncs, pocket wizards etc..). Seeing as its for your girlfriend and no matter what you will eventually upgrade it, use what is suited to her and her needs and what you'll be using it for and in the long run upgrade is my advice, but thats just my personal opinion.

Yeah lol.. Because most motorsport photographers use a WA, Mid zoom or prime (24-70 or 50mm) and a 70-200 + then a bigger lens like 300,400,500,600 lol. Yeah good choice then if your a landscape photographer, mostly shooting off a tripod, you won't need IS then but its good to have for those portrait shots/typical shots. Well, i think its a big improvement from what i've seen. They've given it another stop of IS, Apparently got rid of the focusing issues which can't be calibrated through microadjustment (spot on focus at 70, but not at 200), its sharper, not soft wide open anymore and more controlled CA. But for an extra $1200? No thanks lol. I'll wait until the price drops! Soon 70-200 2.8IS's will be selling second hand for $1600'ish i think!

Yeah its a great lens! Might be a bit heavy for some people but i find it fine! You looking at the mark I 2.8IS or the mark II 2.8IS? the F/4 is the sharpest version of them all if your after pure sharpness and don't need the extra stop. Although the mkII 2.8IS is super sharp also, comparisons reveal similar results were previous results, the 2.8 was soft wide open.

Thanks for the comments guys Sorry Rocklee it seems my iphone skipped over your post. I used a 70-200 2.8IS for these photos. Cheers! Matboy, i sent you what you requested at 3000x2000 which should be sufficient for poster size prints. Let me know if its not

Reeeeplied. Oooo alright. Get your panning gloves on too Feel free to come and bash info out of me all day. Hahaha i was just jesting. I'm no where near financially stable enough yet to get a home loan. Oh, and i'm too young(22) to think about that just yet, few more years!

haha please don't I'll get dizzy if your heading to the SAU trackday in July feel free to question me there but not upside down! Thanks for the compliments again! Yeah sure, for an SAU member what the heck . As long as it's not used for commercial work, no probs. PM me or email me what size your after/print size you want and I'll resize them for you. Do I get a free home loan for it

Thanks guys, appreciate the compliments!

I went to Wakefield on Saturday for the NSWSSC Round #5. Was a great Day had by all! Some super fast lap times by all competitors, especially two 35GTR's! I believe they are members here also. I hope you enjoy the pics 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. All of them are here: NSWSSC Round 5 Gallery Blog entry is here: Blog

Ohh so that's why you weren't racing yesterday at WP Was excited to see your car out after superlap, but i didn't know it had issues (i got there late). Hope everythings alright!

Nice photos man! Were you rocking a 70-200 and were these shot on day 2? I think i saw a few guys shooting from the media carpark part into turn one Shoulda said hello!

Don't get me wrong, i use Manual 24/7. It's a habit that i have got into. My dial will never move off Manual unless the light is ALWAYS constantly changing e.g. clouds/sun/clouds/sun even then i will already have exposures for both sorted out, but if i have to, i will use different modes for different situations. As long as you get the shot, that's all that matters When your starting out, manual can be very confusing though. As i said in my previous post, trouble shooting will be too hard if you don't understand what histograms read or why its under/over exposed/no DoF/too much DoF etc etc... I was just simply advising, if you want to start panning, use TV to get used to the settings the camera sets and then when you feel comfortable switch it to Manual for more control. It's always good to expose to the right as well Depends on what lens you are using... E.g. Panning with a 400 2.8 or bigger, is not really logical to not use a monopod. I mean, you might get some good shots but damn your arms are going to be sore! I don't use a tripod/monopod unless i'm using a 300 2.8+ simple for the fact of not getting sore arms at the end of the day. As mentioned above, you can pick up a SLIK tripod which isn't heavy (for a good tripod) and it does everything you need with unlockable legs for wider spread (<-- that sounds really dirty haha) and adjustable centre column you can raise up and down. Otherwise i think the Manfrotto 055XBPRO its called or something like that, is around $200-$250. Before buying one, go to your local camera store and check them out for weight, ease of use and adjustability.

Good advice! Although.. I wouldn't suggest going from Auto to M purely for the fact you won't be able to troubleshoot why your photos are so over-exposed/blurry/under-exposed etc etc... For motorsports or any type of photography where you are panning and you are just starting out, i recommend using TV (a.k.a Shutter speed priority) mode. This will allow you to change the shutter speed to a speed you can comfortably pan with but still show motion (anywhere from 1/160th & slower). The camera will control the aperture for you, therefore all you have to focus on is shutter speed and controlling your ISO. Of course, the faster/closer you are to a car that is moving fast, you can bring your shutter speeds up and still get enough motion blur because of the speed you are panning. Try out your cameras FPS burst as well. When using burst mode, try not to max the buffer out, but a simple burst of 3-5 shots. I suggest not using the "Auto" focusing modes either. Choose a single point (the middle being the most accurate) and focus on composition and getting spot on focus this way. Also, do not use single shot for the AF. Change this to AI Servo (for canon) i can't remember what it is for Nikon but i think its continuous servo. Practicing with a kit lens e.g. 55-200, 75-300 etc.. is great before spending big bucks on lenses and wondering why they aren't miraculously making spectacular images. It's all about practice and your technique. Also when using super tele's e.g. 400mm+ atmospheric haze also comes into consideration to do with sharpness e.g. heat waves in the roads. It's also much HARDER to keep the lens steady, which is why if your using lenses this long, i suggest getting a monopod until you've had practice with panning. The main technique with panning is to have your feet pointing towards where you want to take a shot and twist your body so you can follow/track the car until it reaches your point where you want to take photo. I have found this produces more consistent results for myself and tonnes of other people, but each to there own. Remember not to get frustrated also! Panning is super frustrating! Practice practice practice and results will come over time. Good luck and post up some more photos!

Have seen this going around the beaches, looks super clean! Good luck with the sale mate, shouldn't be a problem at all! P.S. Totem carpark out the back where the photos were taken?!