Nismo99

Heya PM me ur details, mob number etc... i may come down tonight if i can get a reply quick enough ciao Jono

Hey mate! interested in these Nitto's, was really looking for the 16's, but these will do what i want them to do LOL. If i can get 1.6 sec 60ft out of my 33, i'll be looking at a low 11, high 10 cheers, Jono

hey! a friend of mine is interested in these injectors. what colour are they? do u know their flow rating? are they in perfect working order? he's only after 6 of them, but will settle for the 8 of them if u'd rather not split em up see ya, Jono

Hey! im currently running a similar turbo with same comp wheel/turbine/comp housing specs, but i have a 1.00 A/R exhaust housing. its on an RB25DET, and the lag is absolutely huuuge! just to give u an idea, it will hardly spool in first gear, wont even break traction. 2nd gear the wastegate wont open till about 6000RPM! makes about 10psi in 3rd gear by about 5000RPM. on the other hand, once you're in 3rd gear, hang on!!! its a very scary ride if ur not used to it... i have had quite a few people ride in it who have R33's with 220-230rwkw, and they get quite a shock once it comes on boost. unreal for a 3L motor revving to 8000+ for drags. My size exhaust housing A/R on the street is useless, because basically it will start powering hard after about 100km/h, and by that stage, u've lost ur license... so i could only imagine what a 1.32 would be like. Honestly, it wouldn't even spool up, not withing a normal rev range anyway. Im now sourcing a 0.70 turbine housing which is rare, but they're still about.... it should make my current setup very driveable. on a sidenote, just for comparison, the response of my turbo is in between a trust T78-33D and a T88-34D. so a 1.32 housing would definitely be worse than a T88, which is no good feel free to msg me if u have any questions regards, Jono

Hey! I PM'ed you last nite, so check it out! hehe ciao, Jono

Hey all, sorry to anybody that may get a bit offended, but if we're talking about simplicity/cost in intercooler piping, why even consider ceramic & hi temp coatings? this makes the use of stainless and mild steel pointless to the average user. Aluminium has the downside of being expensive in the performance world, THATS ALL. Stainless looks good.... for a long time, with minimal maintenance. Mild steel is cheap, thats it... may suit many budget builds 99% of us want to drive our cars on the street, in traffic of one form or another. Every time the car comes to a standstill, air temperature rises, no matter what. The important part is how quickly it can cool again, and by far aluminium is the best way to achieve this (without other complicated methods). After testing the disippation times taken for intake charge temperatures to reduce from very heatsoaked to stabilization, nothing even comes close to the effectieness of aluminium. If you're wondering "whats the big deal for a few degrees higher inlet temps, there will be no power gains".... you're probably right, there's not much in it! But its hotter air entering the engine every time it heatsoaks, and for the most of us, thats pretty much all the time!! the hotter the air is, the more u limit the life of the motor.... much like revving the nuts off a motor on a hot day I use aluminium in all my work, regardless of the cost, because its what i feel is best. For those interested, i could have easily bought a Stainless/Mild Steel DC TIG welder as opposed to an Aluminium AC/DC TIG welder, the price difference is HUGE!! try $1000 compared to $5000. this was my choice I guess its up to the individual!! we're all engineers!!! hehehehe ciao, Jono

Hey! i have a stock R33 Series 1 turbo which has been driven under very regular oil changes, using Mobil 1 synthetic oil, every 5000km. always let the car run for 1-2mins after driving. the turbo has done 100k, but is in great condition.... im open to offers! ciao Jono PS: if ur interested, either pm me, or call me on 0413 463 079

Hey all! the Microtech's DO NOT yet have closed loop control, hence their slightly higher fuel consumption... the Oxygen sensor input is just a real time A/F ratio meter, used for data logging etc. Spoke to Microtech here in Sydney, and they are currently developing a closed loop control for the ECU, so he's gonna let me know when its all ready to go. Im sorry all, but i own an LT12 Microtech, and after having set it up about 3 weeks ago now myself, i went for a road tune the other nite with a friend in the passenger seat with the laptop. We were doing power runs ALL NIGHT, and data logging every run, pulling over & tuning, then flat stick again.... about 100km worth! with AF ratios sitting at 12.3:1 @ approx 8psi, exactly half a tank got us 150km. i know this coz we filled up b4 we went, then filled up on the way back. bottom line... its not the computer, its the tuning/tuner. in my case, idle is perfect, and i can GUARANTEE than if anyone jumps in the car, they wont know its not a std ecu, smooth as. The initial rough setup IS exactly that... ROUGH!! mine didnt even like to idle, so remember, everything is on the very conservative side of the tuning. You may wonder "why does my car only do 200-250km off a tank?" You pay dyno tuners by the hour, and if u dont, and they sell u the ecu in "installed and tuned" form, they wont finetune things like cold start, perfectly smooth off boost control etc yes, u do get what u pay for... i have set up a Motec M800, and its a fine piece of gear... so i know what true quality is. I much prefer the Microtech's options over a Power FC, especially datalogging which is invaluable. Something to think about: my car with the std ecu was at about 10.8:1 A/F ratio at 8psi, so how can it possibly burn less fuel than a much leaner Microtech @ same boost and 12.3:1?? its the off boost thats more often than not to blame for the poor economy only my experience, ciao Jono

Hey! I have a Greddy Profec A boost controller almost brand new that im selling if ur interested.... im in sydney $600 negotiable call me on 0413 463 079, or msg me, or PM ciao! Jono

Hey all!! i have a Greddy Profec A electronic boost controller which i am selling. It is immaculate, almost brand new. It holds boost perfectly, like nothing else i've tested/used.... only selling to to my new ECU having its own boost controller. BTW its of an R33 GTS25t, with all the lines/hoses ready to go... asking $650 ono + shipping.......preferably sydney area, but will send anywhere (between $1100-$1300 new) ciao! Jono