Chris Wilson

I am thinking of buying carbon fibre moulded doors for my R33 GTS-t, they are very expensive, and I'd probably only do this if I KNEW they would also fit an R33 GTR as well. If someone is handy with the FAST Parts CD could they check to see if the 2 models share the same door shell part numbers please? Thanks

Thanks for that, I have adjusted for 1.5 way, a clever design! Cheers.

I am doing the feed from the swirl pot and dual pumps in -8, and the return in -6 or -8 as i have a load of hose and fittings doing nothing, and the swirl poy I made has screw on unions, so i thought I might as well buy a reg with screw on return fitting as push on, but I take your point of course, thanks for the replies.

Application, RB26 DETT engine, to go on a single turbo HKS cast iron, T4 flanged, remote wastegate manifold. I am adamant about a cast iron manifold, reliabilty is paramount, i can't afford a proper Inconel manifold and ALL the mass market stainless ones seem to crack with long term, hard, serious track usage. Engine spec: Steel crank (Farndon, who made them for HKS), at stock stroke. Tomei rods, Tomei 280 degree cams with 10.8 mm lift, both inlet and exhaust. New stock head with mild porting and decent valve job, stock sized valves. New N1 block, Tomei oil pump, N1 water pump, on stock size RB26 throttle bodies, and stock plenum, also considering single throttle body plenum, jury still out. Pistons are Tomei forged with cooling channels and titanium coated rings. Management is Motec M800 with 700 cc injectors (Denso). Car is RWD R33 GTS-t, proper brakes, weld in cage, LSD, dog box (T5 motorsport box, on custome bellhousing), proper suspension, LSD in auto ratio CWP, blah blah. To be used as fun track day car, if the engine is too much it will go in a 4WD chassis for similar usage. Want a T4 flanged turbo, not using an adaptor on a T3, good spool, a genuine 600 plus BHP with good torque. Will be mapped on an engine dyno, tweaked on a chassis dyno and the road. I need a turbo with a rebuildable spec, and one where I can play with housing sizes to trim boost characteristics, so nothing weird Would a Garrett GT42 be too big? Thanks for any advice.

Does anyone do an off the shelf FPR that bolts to the stock steel RB26DETT rail and has a -8 or a -6 JIC fiiting on it for the return? Thanks.

Agreed, it NEEDS a proper thermal blanket on the turbine houing AND aditional heat shiledling for the manifold, wastegate and downpipe. On track days that set up WILL melt all sorts of stuff, guaranteed, and probably in hard toad usage, too. Be glad it's not a rotary turbo, they are a nightmare to heat shiled...

Can anyone give me the caliper piston diameters, front and rear, on an R33 GTr with Brembo stock brakes, please, and the disc diameters? Thansk.

Lovely, just to say good luck with the mapping and the run in period. my only concern is heat, I'd definitely get a turbo blanket on it, I have had a LOT of heat issues even WITH a blanket and wrapped downpipe on my single Apexi turbo RB25 in a track car, to the extent I really need a new engine loom. The heat, on track, is simply immense, as is the heat retention when stopped. It beggars belief how much radiation there is off the manifold and exhaust housing, wastegate and plumbing.

Looking for a quiet cat back system that is pretty free flowing, but noise is an issue at track days, so I need something pretty well silenced. I have an unknown make system on my R33 GTS-t that has 2 pipes into the back box, it's perfect EXCEPT the twin pipe layout is stopping me using the GTR subframe reinforcement cradle that i want to bolt on to the car. The cradle catches on one of the 2 pipes, so a GTR system is needed. It doesn't have to be stainless, have a massive tail pipe or look trick, just be efficient and quiet. Thanks.

On an R33 GTS-t, where the outer end of the front top wishbone bolts to the top of the upright, with a longish through bolt, there is fore and aft play. What is inside the top of the upright, ordinary bushes, taper bearings, or what? In this assembly what takes the fore and aft thrust loadings, and is there a better set up than stock available commercially? I don't need to have camber adjustement here, I have modded the bottom front arms to take rod ends on their inboard ends, to give camber adjustment there, see below, if interested ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/R33GTST_Modded_F...Lower_Wishbones Thanks for any pointers. Cheers.

Chrylser make a rear diff oil additive for they call their Jeep Cherokee range, here in the UK (4wd 4x4). The plate type rear diff is poor in these, and tends to clunk and chatter (as well as the CWP wears out for fun...). Some people get really up tight about it and Chryler, like GM did in the 70's with the Corvette, came out with a friction additive for the diff oil. If you bung 2 bottles of it in a plate type diff it will often stop chattering and ratcheting, but a lot depends on the preload it's set to, and the style of the friction plates. Worth a go, it's not expensive over here, at least.

What a superb engine. If you have any other info, maybe on a web site or whatever you can share I'd love to know all about it! You say you have moved the engine back? What happened to the front driveshafts? Do they run forward at an angle, are they custom, or have I misunderstood and this is a rear wheel drive car? Cheers. Must rate as the most sophiticated RB26 install I have yet seen. Tremendous effort, quite supeb.

I think i may just have to copy that coil set up, very elegant. Neatly wired, too. Lovely job all told.

I have made and fitted a HICAS rack removal bar to my R33 GTS-t. (ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/hicas) I also removed the HICAS ecu. I now have the low PAS effort that would normally be the case at over 30 MPH or whatever, all the time. Is this speed monitoring controlled by the HICAS ecu which then energises the solenoid that controls the hydrauilic bypass in the rack? What I am getting at is, i can live with the increased low speed effort, but if it were simply a matter of linking a few wires and still doing without the HICAs ecu I'd put it back to stock. For this to be possible I would expect the engine ECU to have control, and i don't THINK that's the case? Cheers.

1996 R33 GTS-t, big fuel pump fitted in tank. Has been OK for 2 years, but today, on a track day, the engine just stopped. No power to pump. Hot wired 12 volts direct to the pump and got home OK. I believe there is a dual voltage set up on these, and they idle on low volts to the pump, and get 12 volts under load? Where is the control stuff for this situated, is it a relay or a solid state device, and are they troublesome running a pump with a bit more current draw than a stock one? Many thanks for any replies, cheers.

Please tell more about the dry sump system, and if you don't mind sharing plase post pics! Also interested in the cam oil breather return system, I have done something that looks similar, returning oil from a catch tank to the sump via a -8 line with a one way flapper valve. The cooling system looks quite modified, i take it the 3 hoses into the head water gallery take away any steam pockets to the swirl pot? All looks magnificent. How did you find JUN to deal with? Cheers.

I suspect, short of someone fitting this EXACT same turbo, that you will have to offer it up and see. i am becoming resigned to doing the same myself, and maybe having to make a new engine mount that clears it.

Someone please reply with first hand experience, I want to do a similar job witha TO4e on an R33 GTS-t, using the same manifold. What turbo did HKS intend this cast manifold to be used for when it was new, anyone know? I also have an RB26 version of this same manifold, anyone have this and know *FOR A FACT* what turbo clears OK on an R33 GTR? Cheers.

The springs put the preload on the plates, governing the torqu at which the plates start to slip.

The main reason for warping of the manifolds, expecially high mounts in stainless is because people dont support the weight of exhaust system, and poor manifold design without re-inforcement I wonder if google will tell you that <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If you copy the way the F1 lads did it in the turbo era, with a proper, rose jointed support to take the weight of the turbo off the manifold, and still allow movement from expansion and contraction, it should help

I pulled the diff out this afternoon and took the LSd out of the casing. i believe it IS a Cusco RS, although there was no makers logo on it. The centre section has two possible ramps, an equal angle ramp set that gives the same preload increase under acceleration and decelleration, which is how it was set up, and a "1.5" way ramp set up, that gives more preload gain on acceleration than on decelleration. I have rebuilt it like tat, hopefully slow corener understeer (push) will have been helped or eliminated, and it should be more of a circuit race diff now, tahn the aggressive drift type it was before. At least it was a cost free excercise, if it helps i will know in what direction to proceed. I fancy an OS Giken LSD, I believe these are fully user adjustable with variable preload and other trickery. has anyone any direct experience with them? Thanks.

I see now, it's a huge thread, and a great one, I missed about the turbo set up not being a whole HKS package. Thanks for the reply, please find time to further document your eforts, it's great reading, few people here in the UK document such projects, they are more usually dealer built jobs, or the builder doesn't have the time or inclination to post on the subject. Good luck, sounds like completion is near

The cast iron manifold has a divided turbine housing flange, I'd like to match a similar turbo to it. Are there any flow figures for this turbo? How similar is it to a Garrett GT40? Thanks for the reply.

Doesn't the 2JZ-GTE run small shims UNDER the buckets? All the 2JZ-GTE heads I have worked on are shim under bucket, the cam lobes working directly on the bucket tops, NOT the shims.

I thought the HKS TO4Z kits vented the wastegate back into the downpipe? Are you changing this? Cheers. If you have time and inclination do you have any pics of the HKS turbo kit, in particular the manifold and downpiping / wastgate piping OFF the car? Thanks and good luck, it looks a well executed project!