adikt

mate of mine had this happen in his stagea too. melted the electrodes right off 2 or 3 of the plugs. not sure why, but once he replaced them & did a few other mods to his car (which were on the list anyway - fmic/adjustable cam gears/ebc/etc) he hasnt had any issues since. i wouldnt be overly worried about it, unless it keeps happening, then you may have to go to a hotter(colder?) plug to make sure they can handle the power the engine is producing. also to answer whoever it was that asked if the '11' was the heat range - its not, its the gap they are set too. if you buy -11 plugs, they need to be regapped to at least .8mm, if not .7mm.

i was wondering about this a bit as well. 33 gtst, one wheel spins a bit when it lifts mostly off the ground going into my driveway. altho the other still pulls me along fine, and more gas will still send me forward fine. it seems to be a pretty common problem.

what are your plugs gapped to? i had a similar problem & once i regapped the plugs to, i think, about .7mm (recommend .9-.6) it went away. apparently if the gap is too big, the boost blows the spark out.

EBC wont make any difference, ive got one & same problem. i guess a new actuator would be the cheapest option at this stage. just gotta find a decent one at a decent price

no it shouldnt, since it has a restrictive exhaust. as said several times earlier in this thread, and a couple of other threads, it only occurs once you get a free flowing exhaust on the car.

i think the point with the boost creep is that when you are trying to run lower amounts of boost (say 10psi or less) then the gate cant control the boost to those levels as it is maxed out trying to dump the required amount of gases. when you are running higher amounts of boost, say 12-14psi, then the gate is not maxed out controlling the boost, so no creep occurs. this is why, for example, when you are running an external wastegate - you need a BIGGER gate for LOWER boost levels, as you need to dump MORE gas - higher boost levels can use a smaller gate as not as much gas needs to be dumped to keep the boost steady.

they're pretty common over here (NZ) and are fairly decent. from what i hear, the only thing better in that price range is a powerFC (which they have stopped making for R33 gtst now ) to get better you have to be willing to pay a LOT more. they're reasonably easy to install/tune too

that sucks. wonder what it would cost to get it rebuilt with steel wheels. this is getting expensive real quick lol. modifying cars is NEVER easy or straightforward! or cheap lol

ive been ringing around today trying to find somewhere that will port my internal gate. they all say they wont do a rb25 turbo, but do lots of others - evos/wrx/mazda/etc. have to keep ringing around, unless anyone happens to know anywhere in NZ that will do it?

no. its not my boost controller, ive been over that in my other thread. and the rb25 actuator is actually about 7psi, as thats what it goes to without the boost controller in the loop. and it boosts quickly & cleanly to about 7psi, then creeps up to about 12-15. and according to nearly every performance shop/tuner ive talked too - it is definitely possible to have too free flowing an exhaust - it causes the turbo to spool too quickly, and the wastegate cant dump enough gas to control the boost. im starting to think it might be the seperate pipe for the wastegate being too much of a restriction, so i might have to have a go at it with the die grinder and see what happens

does anyone have any instructions or pics of porting out the standard wastegate? ive got the same problem, and dont wanna have to fork out for an external gate. when you port out the gate, do you need to replace the flapper valve as well? or is it big enough that it can cover a slightly larger hole just as well?

cos my car is overboosting atm, to close to 1bar, the standard gate cant control it properly - exhaust is too free flowing. ive got another thread about it somewhere, apparently its a fairly common problem.

hrmm, ok, that makes sense. my car went crazy on the dyno after about 10psi, so i guess thats why. i guess ill be buying a pfc for xmas (if i can find one) and an external wastegate after that if i cant sort it out with the pfc.

Im trying to get a decent straight answer here, everyone i ask has something slightly different to say. Im wondering if R33 GTS25t's have a boost cut? If so, where? I have been told that yes they do, but ive also been told that the ECU does NOT detect the boost at all?! (by the same people, at different times). This kinda confuses me, as I dont understand how there can be a boost cut if the ECU cant actually tell what the boost is. If someone can help clear this up for me it would be good. Im getting a headache trying to work this all out. Cheers

i was thinking id just fork out $600 & get an external wastegate & a new dump pipe. that would definitely solve the problem im sure, plus that will set me up for a new turbo in the future too. altho i may have to spend an extra few hundred & get a new manifold too, which ive been trying to avoid so far. would be good to see how you get on tho, as that might be the easier/cheaper way to go for now