gtst25

you shouldn't need to run this to take away knocking, unless you only have access to local penis fuel where you live (like the mafia). if you are getting yellow flashing engine light in normal conditions you need your tune fix, using meth/alky is only hiding the problem. with this u can in theory dial in more ign timing and boost but once the water/meth is out or disabled you need to basically undo those temp changes otherwide it could detonate itself to death Unfortunately all our fuels are down on octane compared to the japanese cocktails available from their bowsers. We'll definatley be dialling in more timing - being careful and keeping an eye on things. It'll be interesting to see how it goes with 98 octane fuel + water meth. Interestingly the knock levels come and go depending on the petrol station and I only use one brand of fuel. I guess it just depends on how long it's been sitting in the petrol station's tanks and what the owner wants to call it - I'm sure I've bought dodgy 98 octane fuel before.

No highflow cat and a rich tune will make it nose off after 6k.

Very cool rb20 build up. Don't want to sound like a critic here but what about a heat shield over that exhaust manifold. It will get stinking hot! Keep us posted on the dyno/et results - love to see them. Cheers

If it's a screaching sound when it comes onto boost I'll put my money on an exhaust leak. It's pretty common on the rb20's to leak between the exhaust manifold to turbo gasket. If one of those bungs you mentioned falls out all the time I'll bet that's what it is. Some guys have pulled all the heat shields off etc and have found the turbo loose and with only one nut holding it on. I had a high pitched screeching noise on my rb20 when it came onto boost and that's what it ended up being. Cheers

Boost leak

Hi Geoff, What's the status of the '33 now? I'd love to see the results if you got it back together - I've never minded a bit of hard yakka for a good result - hell working on my r33 is one of my hobbies. If the job was done right it'd probably look neater than a lot of single turbo kits around. Do you have any under bonnet photos? Cheers

Yes that's how I would have done it. A pair of gtss turbos are similar in price to kits like the pro s etc like I bought and I've seen adapter kits somewhere... If you use your brain and can swing a spanner I can't see why it would be more expensive. How's the rb20 going at the moment? Cheers

I take it that you've all read that zoom article a few years back where that installed a rb20 into a commodore. They had an aftermarket (greddy I think) inlet manifold and couldn't make the required power. After lots of head scratcing etc they finally decided to put the stocko one back on and found the 20rwkw they were looking for with more torque/responce than before. If I was going past the 400rwkw mark though I would look into an aftermarket plenum - have you guys seen the greddy copies in the group buys?? They're looking like getting cheap enough to take the gamble. Cheers

I don't know why people want to get rid of the ac. I mean with it switched off you're losing the amount of power it takes to spin a fan belt and idler. Bugger all. Then the weight loss? Probably 20 kilos. All this and then summer comes along and you'll have regrets. If you want more power look into engine upgrades I say.

Hi there Disco, I've had drone problems since day one of owning my '33. I bought it with a dump, hiflow cat and stupidly big rear muffler. Since then I've replaced the cat with a 4'' magic cat, and put the longest 3'' muffler I could get between the cat and rear muffler. It was fine for a few days, then when I installed my hks 2835 kit the drone came back! So beware when changing turbos fellas. Now I'm looking for a good quality big muffler for the rear as there's no other options. R33's really don't have much room under there. I hate the drone @ 100 k's - it's really bad with a car full of people. Goto 120 and it goes away. Cheers

Cheers fellas, Reminds me of my silvia days - I pulled all the heater hoses off, went to repco and managed to find that some vn and holden camira ones fitted fine once trimmed. What a bastard of a job - have to do it sometime though as I'd hate one to blow. When I do it I'll post up which hoses fit from which car. Cheers

Hi all, We all have to realise that we're (most of us) are driving 10+ year old lines now and are getting to that magic mark where you'll be driving along on a hot summer's day and blow one of those pesky heater hoses around the back. Not realy good as if you lose your coolant that quickly you probably won't know about it as your temp sender won't tell you that your engine's cooking - it can't if it has no coolant to measure! Just wondering if anyone here has changes the whole lot - not just the easy radiator hoses - the whole lot and where they purchased them all and how much???? I haven't looked for awhile and my r33 series 1 is due for the whole lot. Cheers

That's just carbon build up on the pistons - pretty normal.

For those that are interested in water/meth - these guys seem to be going in leaps and bounds! I'm a bit disappointed that I didn't wait for this new handcontroller. For more info: http://www.coolingmist.com/commanderpics/commanderpics.html Some people have said that water/meth isn't reliable and it's impossible to get the same mixtures from tank to tank? but I can't see why as if you mix your water meth 50/50 or whatever ratio you want everytime you fill your tank the ratio will be the same... Install a good system properly with safety devices ie low water level, clog nozzle sensor, 45psi crack off valve etc and you shouldn't have any probs. Can't wait to install mine! Cheers

Gidday PNG Godzilla, Not too sure which injector I got as I'm travelling overseas atm. That's why I haven't fitted it. Will definately be doing a write-up when I tune again with water/meth - atm it's running 254rwkw and pretty rich. What I really want is that cold night feeling you just don't get in the Queensland summer. Injector size isn't supposed to be a problem with the cooling mist controller (I hope!) Good to see a few people using Water meth - I noticed a few guys were getting good results on ns.com a few months ago when I purchased the kit from US. What size tank have you got and how long does it last? I also see you've set it to start pretty late (13psi) - have you tried it earlier? Cheers

Hi Png Godzilla, I too have purchased a cooling mist system - mine being the one with computer controlled cooling mist controller, clog nozzle detector, bronze check valve etc. The cooling mist controller is pretty cool as you can adjust your maps via laptop if you want. I'll be fitting it around december time and I was just wondering if you've installed your nozzle before the intercooler or after like Mafia? Cheers

I don't like Motul turbo light oil. I use shell fully synthetic. Enough on the oil discussions though - it just goes on and on. As for warming up - I think the best way is to get oil pressure, then take it easy and short shift until it's hot. Cheers

Got to agree about the diff ratio saga. I'm a bit lazy at times and get sick of changing from 1st to second so quickly in my 250rwkw r33 gtst. Also when getting really under it it feels like it shoots through the torque band too quickly - you really don't feel the shove until second gear (just wheelspin) Vl turbos seem so happy chugging away at just over 2000 rpm @ 100km/hr. I also don't think this is the ultimate ratio though - 3.7's or 3.9's in a vl seem perfect. I wouldn't change the ratio until doing a rb 30 conversion though. Also changing into second @ 3000 or 4000 rpm every time you want to keep up with those torquey commodores gets a bit painfull for the syncros - I've never driven a nissan with a really ''nice'' second gear. I use to go home and swap my r33 for my bog stock na vl 5 speed and it was a much more happier car to drive - got to love that rb30 torque. Cheers

Yeah got to agree there. In my commo days I went from 14's to 17's and the overall diameter once low profile tyres were on was just about the same.

Wheel size directly affects your engine rpm so it has the same affect as changing diff ratios. The larger the wheel diameter the less rpm you will use for the same speed.

Got your tune done yet Michael?

I've got he 2835 pro s and 255 rwkw. I'm with Grepin as well - I say more boost - I've had mine to 22 psi and it's normally around 19-20 no problems. Also I'm fitting a water methanol kit at the end of the year - will be interesting to see how it all goes. Cheers

I've bought a few bits from nengun in the last few years and initially had a lot of problems with my pfc. It ended up taking 3 months and ended up being for a gtr not gtst which was partially my fault and partially the website which has since been improved. In saying all this I am yet to find a cheaper source for parts and have bought over 6 grand worth of bits from Brent. You have to be patient and expect hiccups if buying from the other side of the planet. If you fly off the handle don't expect the greatest treatment. Cheers

I downloaded the 92 one last night and just found the 91 one. Must say I was really disappointed about all the idiots at the end of the 92 race. So short sighted - they really didn't see how crappy Bathurst was going to become with the holden versus ford taking over again. Actually they are probably too stupid to see that it's crap now. I know of guys that blindly follow fords etc - nissans are for gays apparently - some people are thick. Bathurst is so boring now I can't even be bothered watching it - just imagine what it would be like to see a variety of cars like the old days - xu1 toranas, mustangs, chargers, even minis and vw's once upon a time! Even in the 92 race there were corollas, bmw's, skylines, fords, holdens, and cosworth sierra! Now you can't even tell the fords apart from the holdens and about the only original parts used are the windscreens and engine blocks. Just disgraceful. Cheers

Are you still gettng a decompression gasket? I wouldn't bother. Grepin's getting well over 300rwkw with standard compression and pistons.