gtst25

Yes they do come with the sleeve etc. I started a thread in the maintenance section yonks ago when I did the idler/tensioner over a year ago. The thread was titled fiddly stuff and if you do a search you will find the right part numbers in the thread. They are cheaper than the genuine ones and I can't see any reason why they wouldn't last as long. One guy got them cheaper than I could but he was in sydney. From memory it was about 60 for the idler and 105 for the tensioner. I've used NSK in all my vehicles and never had any troubles - they are good bearings. Cheers

Just make sure you get the more expensive black coating. Not too sure about increased boost response - I just got the coating to stop the housing going rusty and hopefully reduce engine bay temps a bit.

Yes it's done in silver. We made up the steel cover plates so they wouldn't coat the inside of the housing BUT they pulled the covers off and did the housing inside and out...? Had the cat off the other day and noticed some tiny specs of the coating in it (smaller than a grain of sand) - the outside of the housing is fine though. Just were a bit worried of what affect the bits of coating would have on the exhaust wheel but I guess we'll find out eh? Really hope it just gets blown out. The coating cost about 70 dollars but if they are going to do the inside make sure they are going to do it in the more expensive black coating. This stuff comes apart at 750 degrees and you will most likely see 800. We've been told it's basically impossible to get the stuff off once applied - even when sandblasting it just bounces off. Cheers

Just been away for a few days. Here's the data print out from the dyno. Cheers

Just had a look back and there you go - Bigcarl is the guy with the GT30. Sorry haven't read right through this thread. I also see he had to rebuild his engine.

I wouldn't worry too much - it's not so much the boost that kills engines it's pinging. It'd be interesting to back off the timing a bit, make sure the AFR's are right and do a few power runs with more boost. You'll definately have to run more boost if you want to make some decent power - there's a bloke on these forums with a gt30 internal wastegate on a rb25 - I think the one with the small rb exhaust housing who was making over 250rwkw with the stock bottom end. (horsepower in a box kit) Now he's installed cams and is making more - all depends on whether you want to take the risk - if mine goes bang I'll go a rb30 bottom end. My adjustable nismo FPR is set at 45 psi at idle. How does the car drive? Does it feel faster than when it had the stock turbo? Maybe the dyno wasn't reading right? Cheers

No I'm not saying that I'm running less fuel than you - just the fuel map hasn't been altered as much as yours. Injector duty cycle on peak hold reaches 58%. I'm running 18 psi, spikes to 19 as it comes onto boost. Mods are 2835pro s pfc, fc boost control blitz lm cooler k&n flat panel air filter stock airbox stock blow off valve Z32 AFM 3''exh, 4'' cat hks dump 550cc nismos Big clutch That's all, everything else stock If I wanted more power I'd look into nitrous. Cheers

Hi Mafia, Just had a look at your fuel map - I'll post up mine in a few days - interestingly my tuner didn't play with the fuel map much at all. Just in the areas where it comes onto boost and high load areas. In the original 210rwkw tune it wasn't touched at all. I see you reach load point 16 - exactly the same as me with over 250rwkw. At load point 16 you're running 1 degree less timing than me. Bugger about the fuel. It'll be interesting to see how you go if you go ahead with the water methanol injection setup. In the injection setting under setting we are running all six 550 cc nismos at 68%. Cheers!

I don't think the unit is too big for a rb20. Physically it's not much bigger than the stock rb25 unit - probably similar to a gcg hi flow. You should see full boost by 4000. I can get 18 psi at 3000 - when I have access to a scanner in a few days I'll post up the data sheet from the dyno dynamics dyno - the power run was from 2500 rpm to 7000 and at 2500 it had about 16 psi. The print out shows intake temp, boost, speed and AFR's from memory. I haven't been in any other rb25's with turbo upgrades but I can say the car goes seriously fast now - you can overtake in fifth no worries, 4th is quick and 3rd you have to be thinking quick and hang on! Cheers

Got the car dynoed on a different dyno yesterday afternoon - no changes just a modern dyno dynamics dyno in shootout mode. The 341.9 horsepower - in kw is 255rwkw - sounds much better than the 275 rwhp figure from the other dyno. Interestingly the AFR's were reading differently between the units - the original tune was done with a motec and the tuner was tuning to afr's around 12.8 - 13.1 which I thought was lean - yesterday with the autronic lambda unit it was reading rich at 10.9 - 11.3 at full load. We tried pulling a bit of fuel out but it lost power, then tried putting 1 degree of timing in - too much knock, then tried pulling out a degree of timing out and lost 20 hp. The motec unit must read lean as at cruise with the o2 sensor switched on it was reading about 15.8, whereas the Autronic was reading 14.7 which is about right. We didn't muck around with it - I just wanted to do a few power runs to get a dyno readout from a different dyno. 10 kw less thasn you sly 33 - I don't have a catch can though and have the stock airbox with k&n flat panel filter. Cheers!

I can't see why a rb 30 with 300 rwkw wouldn't get 10 litres / 100 km as long as you stay off boost. Definately something not right with your 200klms/tank economy Mafia. My untuned pfc easily cleared 500 k's at cruise. Might be a silly question but is your O2 sensor turned on in the ETC menu? Unless you drive with your foot flat to the floor something's wrong - last dyno tune we did 160k's on the rollers and my '33 had just under half a tank left.

I haven't seen it go over load point 16. Normally it'll spike to 16 then run across the rev range on load point 15. I'll post up the injection table too when I have a chance. Pressure tested the pipework today to 2 bar and no leaks at all apart from the factory blow off valve which leaks all the time even with the vacuum hose connected through with positive pressure. I tried dad's rb20det blow off valve and it was exactly the same - they don't leak much but do leak a bit all the time. Also tested the wastegate and it begins to open at .9 bar. We thought there must be a leak somewhere as before the tune we had the pfc boost control set at 40 duty cycle, 1.2 bar, but during road testing the boost fell away to 13 psi - we had to increase the duty cycle to 70 to get the 1.2 bar again. Cheers Cheers

If you print this off and goto your ignition map - maybe just write down the differences? Also had trouble uploading straight from excell so had to print off and scan onto a photo program. I think I've got a boost leak so am going to make up a couple of bits of pipe - one with a blanked off end and the other with a valve fitting so we can do a pressure test - it really feels like I've got a boost leak.

Just had a good look at the muffler - it's got a silly 7 inch tip on it which made the 3 inch pipe look small - so it's 3'' after all. Glad that you get the drop off in boost too - hopefully there's no problems with my setup then. Took it for a big drive today - stinking hot - I put back quite a bit of timing in the 10 - 14 load points at 2800 - 3200 rpm (ignition map) and have no knock - seems to get through that region a bit faster now. I think I'll put it on the rollers this week for a quick power run or two to get a more accurate reading. That dyno must read low - hell you can get 275 rwhp with a stock turbo. I'd be interested in seeing your pfc ignition and injection maps - I've put mine on microsoft excell spreadsheets and can post them up if you're interested. Had a bit of a bad run in they last week! Got those tyres fitted and the guy at the tyre shop gouged one of my rims badly on the tyre remover - then on saturday at the dyno the dill who owns the place decided to do some spray painting at the back of the workshop - the dyno fan sucked the overspray in and all over the front of the car. You really deal with some dead heads at workshops. If they can't do the job without damaging your property they shouldn't be in the industry - hell when I was 13 I knew how far overspray can travel. Cheers!

Just got the car dynoed on saturday - the readout was a bit out I think compared with the dynos everyone else uses on this forum - peak power is 275rwhp!! The car has been on two different dynos since I've had it and the first gave a readout in shootout mode (dyno dynamics) of 225 rwhp at only 10 psi at 5000 rpm - we couldn't take it any further as the fuel pump was buggered. Then I installed a pfc, new fuel pump and on the same dyno we used on saturday I got a peak power reading of 210rwhp at 7000rpm - the dyno definately reads a lot lower than others as the car was going a lot faster. On saturday we used 18 psi and interestingly the boost falls off after 6000rpm - we think it's my rear muffler which has a 2.5 inch pipe going through it so I'm looking for a bigger one now. Driving the car has been a bit disappointing - you have to rev it to get going as a lot of timing has been pulled out where it comes onto boost - before the tune it had around 7 degrees extra timing in the midrange and it easily spun the wheels as it ramped up - no knock either so I'm wondering how it would go with a few degrees put back into the midrange. I'm definately not frying the tyres like you slyr33 - last week I purchased some new 275 hankook 104's and they grip pretty well - it does have some wheelspin but not as much as prior to the tune. Anyway all in all it was a bit of a disappointing day - next week I'm thinking about putting the car on the dyno we used the first time a year ago if I can get a bigger muffler on it. Cheers

The dump is well made but: I didn't like the dump for that reason - the lip where it joins the main dump must be a restriction and also my locally fabricated dump had a pipe extension from the dump turbo flange right to the turbine outlet - ensuring the wastegate/turbine gasses are totally seperated. Another interesting point is the wastegate can only open about 10mm before it hits the dump - I don't know how it'd go it trying to control boost on a larger capacity engine. ie rb30. I'm sure it works fine but I think it could have been done better - I wouldn't be sourcing it from the other side of the planet. Cheers

The wastegate actuator arm on my kit is adjustable - I didn't play with it though. As for putting a T-piece in - we just blocked off the boost outlet for the wastegate and used the factory after intercooler boost outlet as we were worried about the Apexi boost control solonoid getting hot air directly from the turbo (probably would be fine). I'm running 1 bar boost so not sure how you would go trying to run less but probably would be no worries. Also I wouldn't get the dump pipe from Japan - it wasn't as well made as my original one - you're probably better off getting one made locally. Cheers

I think you'd get more satisfaction spending your hard earned on a RB30 combination - gtr head, intake manifold and twin turbos - it would be a weapon in a r32. Having done conversions myself they are probably more hassle than they are worth.

Lambda sensor is one of those sniffer things the dyno guys put up the exhaust so they can check what the air/fuel ratios are. Id say you'll get better economy with an intercooler and dump. If it was running heaps rich then maybe your O2 sensor is buggered.

We hooked the 2E0 up to my laptop today. We didn't do it straight away as I had to get a serial port to USB adapter as my laptop is fairly new and only came with USB's. We're just interested in what inputs you guys use on your kits? Ie Rpm or load (AFM Voltage?) Trying to catch it when you're driving is pretty hard - I haven't taken it for a drive with the laptop yet but it would be nice to be able to see what load point and rpm that certain AFR was! I'm not really interested in making a mess splicing into anything - just was wondering it there's an easy way to hook up these outputs?? Cheers!

Hi there, No don't think the exhaust has anything to do with it. More than likely that your tune isn't the best - I doubt it would be the oxygen sensor (please correct me if I'm wrong!) as with mine turned off at light to moderate loads the AFR's are pretty much the same as with it on. It would be interesting if you could go for a drive with a lambda sensor to see what's going on - getting that done at a shop would probably end up paying for itself with the fuel you may save. Something I did notice about the other guys I went on the cruise with is that they are always in a low gear giving it a rev. No good for economy. Strange that you get such bad economy with a 10 psi tune though - who ever tuned it wouldn't have had to change the maps too much and mine got excellent fuel economy with the factory apexi maps! Cheers

Just came back from a 425 k cruise with a lot of spirited driving and a few big squirts - still had just under a quarter of a tank.

All depends on your right foot. I have gone past 400 kays with my new 2835 and economy is normal - that being around the 500k mark / tank no problems. Driving with my lambda sensor has also made me aware that even out of closed loop I still am getting 14.7 - 15:1 AFR's at these light load load points.From what I've seen the PFC maps seem to deliver great fuel economy If you boost it up and make it go into higher load points your economy will allways suck.

Yep - Stewart's the man!

Sorry, I was talking more about fit up to engine. The kit comes with its own dump. The only thing that you will have to get is a new pipe made up from the dump outlet to cat. I got it made at my local exhaust shop for $150.