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Everything posted by gtst25
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What ignition advance do you run?
gtst25 replied to 180bfj20det's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Great to get some ignition maps up to compare. So does your car go right up to load point 20 Cubes? Mine only gets to 15 or 16 under full load - from looking at your graph it looks like your tuner has done a lot of work in the points marked in red 17 to 20, and a few changes earlier. -
What ignition advance do you run?
gtst25 replied to 180bfj20det's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Took a photo of the graph we made from the timing map on my PFC. It doesn't take very long to write down and then transfer onto the computer. I'd be interested to see anyone else's - good to compare. I'm thinking about getting a lambia sensor to do some light load tuning. The dyno tuner who did my tune seemed to just try to get power - which he did but I would've liked to see him take it for a drive with the lambia. Cheers -
Hi there, If you do the job properly you should have no low fuel problems - the 044 pictured we installed in my r33 and I get well over 500k's to a tank. Have a look, there's plenty of threads about this and a 044 install guide in the diy section. Bugger of a job though. Why not just put it inline? You won't need a surge tank unless you go racing.
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What ignition advance do you run?
gtst25 replied to 180bfj20det's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Sorry about that - couldn't get the spreadsheat to upload - it's only about 11kb but we did it in microsoft excell. Bit of a hard one to say really without showing the graph - depends on the revs but at full boost at the moment it's about 18 - 20 degrees. -
Could also be the connection between the exhaust manifold and turbo - quite common and makes a squealing noise. If no go with the air leaks check your bolts.
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What ignition advance do you run?
gtst25 replied to 180bfj20det's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Gidday, This is the graph dad and I made from my apexi power fc hand controller. It's just a stocko rb25, stock compression ratio. Full boost of 14 psi is about from load points 11 to 15/16. Cheers -
VL water pump a direct replacement for R33?
gtst25 replied to benl1981's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I too like Steve am talking from experience as I do all the work on my cars myself. The pump fitted BUT as everyone else here has confirmed there is one bolt hole thats different. I didn't put it on because of this. I'd hate it to start leaking. Something else of interest - the rb30 one fits on a rb20 (did it on dad's) - just am unsure of how it would handle the revs - doesn't matter with dad as he rarely revs it over 4 grand. -
VL water pump a direct replacement for R33?
gtst25 replied to benl1981's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I doubt that if you've got a turbo series 1 rb25 the rb30 pump will fit. I tried this on mine but I found like 4 door sleeper said one hole is different. I'd go genuine if I were you. You can save money on the idler + tensioner pulleys though - I went to a local bearing shop that deals with NSK bearings with the part numbers and got the right ones much cheaper than nissan. Part numbers Tensioner: NSK 60TB0683 EA7L 806 Idler: NSK 56TB2801B01 ENSL 309 -
Dad made up a special puller for harmonic balancers on skylines - don't get a normal claw puller just as 3litfors3 has said - you may wreck your harmonic balancer - I can get dad to take a photo of it if you like.
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Same goes for you Deane. By putting your negative stereo wire onto the illumination wire you have a DEAD SHORT when you turn on the headlights. Hey it's not too hard to pull the dash apart and fix. :Oops: Have fun!
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GIDDAY, I did the same with my s13 silvia - and then 4 years later with my r33. I bet I know what it is. When you check for power wires for your new stereo with a multimeter there will be a negative and a positive. Great. But when you turn on the headlights the negative will turn into a positive. Bang. There goes your fuse. I'm pretty silly as I have fallen for this twice. Earth your negative instead - I earthed mine onto the Cover for the g/box near the shifter. As for putting bigger fuses in DO NOT DO THIS unless you want a fire. Nissan did a bloody great job with their wiring so please don't wreck it.
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No there's no reason why I think you will have to baby it. It will probably be quite bitey for awhile. Make sure the flywheel gets machined and replace the spigot bush while you're there. The spigot bushes are the same as VL commo ones - $10.50 from the local holden dealer - double at nissan. Repco seem to do a good flywheel machining job too - at first I took mine to a machine shop but they only had a lathe not a facing machine. $50 well spent. The flywheel is very important - if the clutch has been slipping the flywheel will be scored. You don't want a shuddering clutch. Make sure if you're taking it to a mechanic that they do the job properly. Cheers
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internal or external fuel pumpt for GTR
gtst25 replied to itbmils's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Don't know anything about hoses sweating - I only use EFI grade fuel hoses - same stuff they use from the factory. I don't like the idea of hoses which 'sweat' petrol. -
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internal or external fuel pumpt for GTR
gtst25 replied to itbmils's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Personally I'd got the external bosch 044. Bought mine from Drift King for 366 dollars including COD. I think they are cheaper now. I did the 044 internal into my r33 gtst - a total pain in the arse job - but external would be very easy. If going internal make sure you include the 1 way valve. I have a friend who's a tuner - he's done heaps of external bosch's - just use the standard pump as a lift pump and the bosch for the booster. I don't understand the fuel smell thing when going external. IF YOU HAVE A FUEL SMELL YOU HAVE A FUEL LEAK. I can't see how a sealed fuel pump will have a fuel smell. Very strange. Just my 20 cents worth Cheers! -
If going only to 200rwkw I wouldn't go too heavy duty. My stock clutch started slipping at 209 rwkw only because it'd done 90000 klms - the clutch plate was just totally worn out. I'd say that's the same with 90% of the r33's around with stock slipping clutches. The stock one should handle 200 at the tyres no worries unless you go silly. The exedy one I put in is great, although quite heavy (must be a woose) and I'll say unless looking for around the 250rwkw mark it's not an issue. It was pretty pricey too at 580 dollars. Cheers
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Gidday cubes, Just wondering how the rb20 g/box is handling things? Reason I ask is when in AUS last I helped dad put a new clutch into his r31 with rb running gear. Decided while it was apart to pull the rear of the box apart and check out the nuts which hold the shaft assembly together. Sure enough they were loose - all we did was tighten and it's feels like a new box - took all the end float out of second - amasing difference. Not too big a job either - would do it in a day easy. Cheers
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Gidday, Just A Couplea Photos Wrxhoon Enailed Me - I Just Reduced Them. Cheers
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Just went in the trading post. Bump!
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Ha HA HA HA
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Hi Tim, I don't see any r33's with Apexi computers, boost controllers here at the same price. You have to look at the condition of the vehicles before making any critisims on prices. Like I said above - it took me a month to find a good one - I looked at over ten cars and most of them were dogs. If you were serious about buying a car why would consider asking about the best price without looking at it?