gtst25

Saw a r34 rim in the for sale section for 200 bucks awhile ago. V nice cars fellas!

You should be able to get the number of your knock reading in any monitor zone - 1, 2 ,4 ,or 8. Just push the right arrow and the will show you the highest number of all the readings. ie peak hold. I leave mine on the 8 zone readout - peak hold allways to make sure nothing's going wrong.

Gidday, Just wondering if anyone here has got any photos of r33's with r34 gtr rims? I've got a couple of r32s here with what look like r34 gtr wheels or close copies. Just have never seen a r33 with 34 rims on and I reckon it'd look pretty good. Cheers

I saw this one recently in the for sale section - I think it looks neat although I'm no expert. Cheers!

Bump

That is not how a gearbox works. Have you ever pulled one apart? Synchos don't slip when the box is in gear - the synchros job in each gear is to stop the spinning gears when you change gears allowing the gears to mesh in together without crunching. They are a brake for each gear and don't do anything once the gear is engaged. This is why a gearbox is called a gearbox, not a synchro box! Gears transfer the power, not synchros. Changing the gearbox oil won't make an ounce of difference to the slipping you describe. So my answer to GTR94's problem is the clutch is slipping. The car will need at least a new clutch plate - but if going to the trouble of doing this I'd be putting a whole new clutch kit in, machining the flywheel etc. I just had the same problem with my r33gtst - the exceddy clutch kit I got works nicely. The reason it slips in 5th and not other gears is the driveline will be under the greatest load in 5th because of aerodynamic drag. Hope this helps

I hope she doesn't want to put a splash down the side and soft toys on the dash like mine does.MMMMMMMMM.... NO idea!

He He! Great thread. Must agree though - my missus hates me spending time on the '33 and THEN goes for a drive and has a ball with all the fellas looking at her. Little do they know that she doesn't know how to put 'the pressures in the tyres'????!!!!!

I took me a month of hard searching to find a r33 this clean - please pm if interested. Cheers

Hi Cubes Just downloaded the updated version. Must say it's excellent - your engine looks great - what turbo set-up do you reckon you will end up running? Cheers

If you're game it's not really hard to pull the g/box down to the stage in the photos. It would allow you to check for chunks of broken bits and also check those nuts for tightness. If anything it's really worth doing those two nuts ups as it made a lot of difference to dad's 32 g/box - just make sure you replace any bearings if they get damaged while using a puller or press. To do this job you will have to access the box form the back - splitting the back of the box off. If you want to go further it'll be worth looking into shimming / new bearings. There has been a bit of information going around on these forums about doing this - if you want more info just tell me. Basically you have to : At the rear of the box there's the bit where the gearstick goes in. The gearstick slots into a moving rod in here which selects the gears - you can see it from the top. The rod has got a fitting (the gearstick fits into this) which has got a pin holding it in - the fitting has to come out before you can split the box. Get a punch and carefully tap the pin out making sure you don't lose it in the box. The fitting can come out now and you can undo the back section of the box. Once all the bolts are out you can slide the rear outer section off the box. It will most likely take a bit of a gentle knock with a hammer to do this/gentle wedgeing with screwdrivers. Once the outer casing is off you will see the gear selectors and rear of the shafts - just like in the photos. Straight away you'll be able to feel the nuts to see if they're loose. In dad's box we made up a puller to pull the bearing off the 4th gear shaft - this is the long shaft which runs all the way to the rear of the box. The holding nut has a piece of metal which has been peened over - you'll have to bend it back if you want to tighten the nut up. To tighten the nuts up we used a great big ring spanner ( you have to pull the bearing off to fit it on ) with a length of pipe over it, while I held the gearbox with a crowbar to stop it from turning. To stop the shafts from turning you'll have to lock the box into 2 gears at once - you do this by mucking around with the selectors. That's about it - a bit of a rough outline - I'd say that just about every older skyline has loose nuts on the shafts - if I ever buy a 32 I'll check this if I've got the gearbox out. We just used castrol mineral oil in the 32 - I just put synthetic in my r33 and reckon it has made no difference - not really worth 90 bucks for 4 litres. the stuff is so thin I can't see how it can do its job - it's nearly like water. Cheers

Bump - open to offers!!??

If you've got the box on the floor I'd suggest taking a look at it / getting someone to check it out before sticking it in the car. In these photos you can see the nuts which hold 2 of the shafts assemblys together - just to give you an idea of what they look like. They have a soft metal edge which is peened over to stop it undoing - the photos aren't the best but might give you a bit of an idea.

Plastic on the exhaust side?? I thought they have ceramic exhaust, plastic compressor due to heat???

Not sure if the sr20's are a similar design to the rb20's. Might be worth finding out. Cheers

How do you think this would go on a rb25/30 with standard rb25 manifold? The add in horsepowerinabox.com says it can fit the stock exhaust manifold with an adapter.

No there isn't oil in the clutch. If there is you will have a problem as oil in the clutch means leaky rear main oil seal or leaky gearbox input shaft seal. Oily clutches slip. Instead of a old style cable actuated clutch most modern (all that I have seen) manual cars have a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push the clutch pedal in the linkage connected to the pedal push a hydraulic cylinder (which is the clutch master cylinder). The master cylinder then pushes oil (fluid) through a oil line (you can see this exiting the master cylinder if you have a look) which goes to the slave cylinder which is mounted on the gearbox. The slave cylinder has a piston in it which moves as you move your foot to dis-engage the clutch. So if there's a leak this symple hydraulic system then the clutch won't disengage properly/not at all making gearchanges hard. By the sound of what you just said though it must be a gearbox problem. When take your foot off the clutch pedal the gearbox shafts will spin - when you push it in they slow down and stop allowing you to put the car into gear. So that grinding noise you describe sounds like gearbox bearings. If you buy a second hand g/box you won't know the condition of it - if it were me I'd pull the one I have apart first and inspect before getting another - it probably just needs bearings/seals etc. If they are buggered and the shafts have too much end float the syncros won't work properly making gearchanges feel strange / very hard. The r32 gearboxes have big nuts holding the shaft assembly together which get loose over time - not sure what g/box you have but dad and I pulled his r32 g/box apart the other day when replacing the clutch - we found the nuts loose so we tightened them up - now it feels like a new one - hardly any end float and second doesn't crunch. Good luck

I'd say the problems with the cars not starting would be the check valve wasn't installed on the pump when installed. If you don't do this the pump has to re-prime the system once the car has been left for awhile. Below is a photo of the 044 we installed in my r33 four weeks ago - I didn't install the check valve so will have to fix this when I get round to it. The 044 only just fits into the tank and was a pain in the arse job so if I did it again I'd keep the factory pump intank as a lift pump then use the aftermarket one externally. Good luck.

Some more photos here - I'm not much of a photographer but everywhere you look the car is clean. Regards

Safcossie, Thanks for that-just bought my first laptop the other day and have been doing a lot of learning - up until a year ago I have been computer illiterate Cheers

Hi, Have you checked the oil level / for oil leaks in the clutch master / slave cylinder? If you're having problems getting it into / out of gears it sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging properly. Just because you can't change gears it doesn't necessarily mean the g/box is stuffed. As you have found out the hard way owning a midifyed car requires the owner to have good fault diagnosis skills or know a good well recommended workshop. Good luck

yes please! [email protected] cheers!

I find skylines a bit disappointing at times when you want to go for a lazy drive. Especially when there's hills about. Makes you wonder what it would have been like if say instead of 2-2.5 litre engines with the 32 & 33's they sold a gtst30! Go for a easy drive in a '33 manual and take off from the lights next to a v6 commodore. If you want to keep up you're forever revving to 4 grand through the gears. Low down torque is so good.

Gidday, Fit a 044 in tank into my '33 a month ago - just took the pump to the local hydraulic man and he had the right fittings. Make sure you keep the check valve on the pump if it will be the sole pump otherwise you'll have to turn the ignition on twice before you start the engine so it primes. If I did it again I'd do it externally as it was a pain in the arse kind of job - it's just too easy to put it in line. Good luck.

AS I'M BACK OVERSEAS FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD I'VE DECIDED TO SELL MY R33 IT IS AN: -1994 turbo white manual ENGINE/DRIVELINE -Blitz Lm intercooler -4 month old apexi pfc + handcontroller -4 month old pfc boost controller -K&n air filter -Blended dump pipe - ceramic coated - 3'' manderal bent exhaust, ceramic coating to 3'' cat, 7'' stainless muffler - work done at exotic exhausts in Brisbane -Bosch 044 fuel pump in tank -Nismo adjustable fuel pressure reg -New clutch 3000k's ago - exeddy hi pressure plate - organic clutch - done by myself, flywheel machined, throwout bearing, spigot bearing - job done properly -New brake pads / discs machined -Dynoed / tuned one month ago - originally was 175rwkw now 209rwkw -2.5 Inches lowered king springs -Upon purchase 2 years ago(15000klms ago) timing belt and idler pulleys done by myself -Oil changed every 4000klms - shell fully synthetic -Filter changed every 2000klms -NGK inridiums heat range 7 gapped to .85mm -95000klms -Perfect for someone who wants to go next step - big turbo / injectors / rb30 bottom end??? Wheels -17x9 alloys - 255 rear tyres 225 front Exterior -Immaculate original body apart from front bumper respray. Was checked before purchase by long term friend who has been in Automotive body business for 7 years. No dents/scratches/absolutely no rust. Windows tinted maximum legal 1 year ago Nismo front bonnet lip Interior Immaculate original black/grey velour. Original nissan floor mats Autometer boost guage Kenwood cd player All mods done by myself apart from exhaust and tuning - car has not been thrashed/drifted etc. 12 months rego just paid Allways kept in a dry garage. Rarely driven as I am allways away Upon inspection will not be dissapointed Fast and smooth. Boost comes on really early Apexi boost control kit Price $21000 ONO / or nearest offer Ph: 07 54816229 Gympie