gtst25

Good stuff fellas, Good to see some people are interested in this - I think it'd help everyone out heaps! Still not many replies though - must be because it's in a section that not many people look at. Might be worth posting in forced induction or somewhere - I'd say it'd get a lot more views there. Anyway - is there anyone else that'd like this idea? What's the next step to take if people want this new section? Cheers!

Looks good SK Would be good on my '33 - hmmm... materials - there's so many options - aluminium, carbon fibre, plastic..... I'd like to see the end result!

Hi all Just have a bit of an idea - awhile ago I posted some part numbers for NSK camshaft idler/tensioner pulleys for r33's on the General maintenance section - quite a few people ended-up benefitting from these as they got parts a lot cheaper and easier than normal. I think it'd be a good idea to have a section just for tried and tested part numbers - ie anything from waterpump part numbers to wheel bearings. One of my pet hates is ringing up a parts dealer and having to wait ages for the person to find the right number - they're allways happier if you know the number/s before you ring - it saves both of you heaps of time. My dad and I have quite a few numbers on our home computers now as we've done a fair bit of work on our nissan rb's. Anyway - please tell us what you think - there's a wealth of information on this website - just like to be able to find part of it easier/cheaper!! Cheers

Good stuff mate, Looks like I'll just go the AFM to turbo upgrade. I'll be eagerly awaiting the Stagea photos - don't want to change much on my pipework/stock airbox - it looks too nice, neat and standard under the bonnet. From what I've heard of cars and power outputs I doubt I'll ever go over 300rwkw max - it's only rear wheel drive after all! Cheers

Hi SK, Just wondering what induction set-up you run on that 265rwkw r34? I've allready (r33 gtst) got a K&N flat panel in the standard air box (came with the car) - I'm just considering getting one of those aluminium pipes which run from afm to turbo inlet. Mods not too far on the horizon should include rb30 bottom end, turbo upgrade, supporting hardware. Do you think the stock airbox will suffice for this? Cheers

One of my mates hydrauliced his engine (pod in front) in a typical sudden summer Queensland downpour - just drove through a deep puddle....

Gidday all, Just reading through this thread and am happy some other people are benifetting from the cheap idlers etc. Just a suggestion, although it's probably not in the right section - I reckon it'd be a great idea to have a section just for part numbers, from timing belts, waterpumps etc to t4 compressor wheels. No BS in it - maybe this could be edited out - just say r33 gtst series 1 timing belt........ R33 input shaft bearings for g/box...... I'll be doing my g/box bearings soon! I can't count how many times I've been to mr nissan and had to wait for 40 minutes for someone behind the counter who doesn't know a wheel form a tyre to find the part number of something. If you know the part number they can tell you the prices and availability immediatly. Anyway, post away if you think this is a good idea. Cheers

R33 gtst Series 1 Stock turbo Custom Dump pipe (Seperate wastegate pipe blended in), Hi flow cat manderal 3'' Stock ecu Blitz LM cooler 8psi boost K&N panel Shootout mode dyno dynamics 175RWKW Leaning out so couldn't rev out AFR's went to 13.1 so backed off at 4900rpm Will dyno in jan with pfc, pfc boost controller, upgraded fuel pump/nismo press reg. This thread is great!

Good stuff fellas. Still interested in how button clutches are - I've never driven with one - just wondering if driving smoothly is possible? Will be doing upgrade in jan - Cheers!

Cheers mate - will do it next time I have the front bar off. Just was a bit annoying when I had to get the car going straight away - everyone makes mistakes.

The autobarn I went to is in Stones Corner Brisbane, just around the corner from Brisbane Street Machines. Can't see the upsidedown logo at the moment as I have stock front bar but might change this soon - going to be a prick to get off as it's 2 pack.... Don't want to do any damage to the fins....

Try elsewhere - nengun???? I got one form autobahn - the f@@k dill behind the counter thought it'd look better on the display with BLITZ painted on it. Great I thought - should've looked harder though 'cause he'd painted it on upside down!! Looking back I should've taken it back but the car was in bits - had to get it going again. Heaps cheaper form nengun by the sounds - worth the wait! I paid $1700 - too much....

Stock Rb20 det computers are tuneable - most reputable shops in Sydney should be able to retune your computer to make better power. If you ever come to QLD I know a bloke who knows rb20's inside out - has tuned literally hundreds of them. Can't recommend him enough.

I wouldn't muck around with anything that you have to muck around with making pipework. Too much hassle - I've done it both ways - my advise is get a kit ie. blitz LM. So easy to install - took me an afternoon. Just use something better than a hacksaw etc for trimming the front bar! I would've got it done in half the time with an airsaw.

How do you find the button clutch? I've read from a lot of people that they are on/off - I don't really want that. Can you drive them smoothly with practice? This might seem obvious but why did you goto the second upgrade? Was the first clutch slipping? Dad and I'll do the install ourselves - do the input shaft bearings as well. Will be heading for 250+rwkw not too far away - but want to avoid expensive twin plates if possible. Thanks

HI I'll have to do my clutch soon (when I get back) - what sort of power does your car make? The furtherest I'll probably go will be 260 rwkw. Rb30 bottom end, low mount, injectors etc. - TOURQUE What car was the pressure plate from? Just interested as some people have been talking about using patrol ones. Is it hard to push in? My other half's gotta drive it too. Cheers

Don't worry about it - just use a timing light when you start it back up!

11 4 me!

I've got a few at home which I'll cut up when I get there ( couple of months away) Excellent thread - how do the genuine nissan ones hold up? Good to know the valvoline's aren't the best - Joel I am seriously considering doing the rb30 bottom end in janurary. Best to use the best with fresh gear. My clutch is on the way out, the (I reckon) g/box input shaft bearings are making a bit of noise when you can hear them in the garage, I have a noisy lifter and soon will probably have to do the exhaust manifold studs. :headbang: Just as easy to pull the g/box/engine out, go a vl rb30 series 2 na rebuild and fix the other stuff while it's all out. Allways wanted to do a 30 bottom end/25 head. Also interested in seeing how it all'll go with the stock turbo. Just sold a na vl and loved the torque - getting into the 33 was disappointing - you allways seem to be changing gears where the vl'd just pull away from 1500 etc. Might even consider a taller diff ratio - starting off in second in the 33 ( on a flat surface or down a hill) doesn't worry it at all. Good stuff fellas. :alien:

There was a good article about japanese aftermarket computers in zoom awhile ago. They got a red r33 with f/mount , mines , exhaust etc and dynoed - ended up with 210rwkw @ 14 or 15 psi? Stock turbo/dump pipe. Something MD said though was the mines are generally programmed to run fairly lean - when they did the dyno runs they were running hi octane fuel - c16 I think. Be worth checking afr's on the dyno if you are running more boost/stock intercooler as it might be getting lean. Cheers!

Most rb20's seem to run around 10psi standard - the two I've used have anyway.

Thought the gtrs was a bigger turbo - people seem to be getting more power from these than 2835??!!

Yeah you'll have to remove the camshafts. I'd wait until you can get your hands on a engine manual. Pretty big job.

I hate ryco's after losing the rubber seal once - and they don't usually have a plastic cover over threaded end. Go the nissan or valvoline. I allways use the valvoline

Someone had a very similar problem with a ca18det. Ended up being where the cas joins the camshaft - someone didn't install the cas properly and stripped the lobe off. Result - timing all over the place and an engine which didn't like running.