gtst25

Gary, I just ordered an apexipfc + handcontroller for my r33 - cost 1140 AUD from www.nengun.com Worth a look although I don't know if they sell them for a Stagea but can't see why not.

It's easy to remove sticker gunk with eucalyptus oil too!

Sorry guys for using 'round' figures. I only read the article once - that was over a year ago now - a lot has happened in my life so I couldn't remember the exact figures. Just was wondering if anyone uses cryogenics - my question has been answered! Thanks!!!

I have a friend who made over 200rwhp out of an rb30na but he stuffed around for years... The headwork was a piece of artwork - I drove the car once - and was more impressed with my ca18det silvia! All I did to it was get a friend to write a chip, 14 psi boost, dump pipe and exhaust. Trust me, I hotted up a red metor once, then dad and I installed a rb20 det after disappointment. I know a rb25 is streets afead of a red moter 202 - but then again a turbo in my opinion is a good step up again.... 200rwkw isn't so impressive after a few weeks - you just get use to it

Might be the seal in the fuel cap which allows access to the fuel pump. I purchased a new one at nissen for about 20 dollars. When you undo the fuel cap after a trip it should go whoosh - if it doesn't you've got a leak

Any of you people tryed cryogenically treating engine parts whe building an engine? If you don't know what it is - nasa discovered it with the space shuttle in space - for some reason metals were coming back 300% stronger after a voyage. Apparently freezing metal to over -300degrees celcius does this! I read about it in a zoom article ages ago and just wondered is any angine builders use the treatment, as it is quite cheap - about 150 dollars to do a set of pistons.... I'd try it if using standard in say a rb30 with rb25 head

Gidday I'm an aussie in the UK too! I miss my R33 - at least there's a few over here to look at. The importer down the road from me has a R33 gtst for sale for 4999 pounds. I don't like the look of the amount of rust the cars in the UK have though - most cars over 5 years old have rusted - out 'guards etc. Have been on the highway with a few friends - I wish the police the police in aussie were as leniant as they are over here! It's normal to do 90 - 100 mph on the highways here - that's in a sixty or seventy zone. You'd get carsturated doing that is Aus! Also went on a few autobarns in Germany - I'm very jealous!

Yeah thanks! I'm going on nengun to order one now. Doubt if I'll ever go over 300RWKW anyway so I'll just get the 'normal' apexi. But then again it's so easy to get use to power! I'm in the UK at the moment studying yacht engineering and won't be home until x-mas, but just purchasing parts for my car in the meantime. Will dyno the car the month I'm home - can't wait! Obviously I'm quite a distance away from any tuners for advise! I didn't realise there was different types of Apexis until I seriously started looking for one. Anyway, thanks again for the help and advise!

Ducting might help too! Zoom mucked around with a sil80 with a rb20 installed a few years ago - have you tried flushing the rad out?

I wouldn't own a good car if I didn't have a good place to keep it after previous experiences (dent in door 2 weeks after 7 grand paint) I like kill switches and lots of them. Never had one stolen though.

I agree - unless you're after big hp I doubt you'need over 75 mm. Then again bigger is better - 'spose budgeting is the big thing

Yeah I purchased a blitz 'cooler (600 / 300 / 75 for 1700AUD a few months ago - it was easy to fit and throttle response increased quite a bit. Dynoed 175rwkw @ 5800 on dyno dynamics but couldn't rev out due to bad fuel pump (pinging) I think you could get one cheaper than that - I just didn't have the time to look. Had to trim the front bar a fair bit though

Thanks for the replies! I hadlook on the searches - I'm new to this and they were great. Sorry - just a couple more q's. Is it an option on the jetro version to run AFM's as well or do you have to get rid of it straight away? If you can still run AFM's to start with it sounds like the one to get. Do you recommend using the electronic boost controller with the standard turbo? I believe it should increase torque as you have quote me if I'm wrong total control of the wastegate? Thanks again!

Yea I have had problems in actutator lines as well - I always make doubly sure hose clamps are tight as

Hello I'm a new member wanting to purchase an apexi pfc among other things. Does anyone know the differences between the jetro and race versions? I saw both these on a website but they wrote the same things about them - pretty general. Also I saw someone writing about the A.P engineering versions of them? I also am interested in getting electronic boost control and am interested in the Apexi one - you can plug it into the computer. Has anyone used on of these? Thanks - just don't want to buy the wrong thing

me too - any ideas on prices?

Might be worth resetting the computer. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and put your foot on the brake. This drains the power to the computer. Then reconnect and take for a good hard drive. The computer should then go through a re-learn sequence - a lot of people do this when making any change - from airfilter to intercooler to fuel changes. Some people notice a difference although I didn't when I did it. Mixing fuels won't hurt it driving normally.

The r32's are definatly my favourite. I had a lot of problems finding a good one when I was looking and ended up getting a 33 instead. Look out for rust too as it's becoming an issue and make sure it's exactly what you want for 17grand....