gtst25

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Yep - have been told that the best way to dyno is to strap the car so it climbs up on the front roller during the power run. This was from a guy who strapped the horsepower heroes cars at summernats - over 1000 rwkw! And yes generally you'll get a lower power output reading if strapped down hard between the rollers - I got a reading of 260rwkw and the bloke who dynoed it said it would have read another 15rwkw at the tyres if strapped to sit on the front roller. I've had my car strapped both ways and I like the front roller idea - there was no wheel spin - the day it was strapped between the rollers the tyres copped it. Cheers

Hi Paul, What parts are you using to make that power? I realise it's a rb30 but what turbo etc? Are you using any other piggy backs with the stock ecu? Cheers

Nooooo! Sacrilege....

They're a bit more than a turbo charged camry... Rear wheel drive and came out new at over 100 grand. They were built to compete with the mercedes M class and M5 bmw's at the time and were faster that BOTH. So value for money they are pretty awesome... The japs look after them better than the average nissan too - generally Aristo owners were more mature than silvia and line owners. It's not uncommon to find one with plastic on the seats!!! Yeah they only came out as auto but personally I love my sleeper/cruiser. The sequential turbo delivery is beautiful - torque from idle... And the turbo's are bigger than stock gtr's. There's guys running around with over 260rwkw on stock turbo's and up to 300rwkw with wastegate mods and larger compressor wheel. Don't forget that's through an auto! Say hello to well over 400rwkw with a big single... Cheers

I just bought an Aristo. About half your 25g budget and an awesome car!

Gas motorsports are making over 2000 hp out of the 2jz http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpFRBc0ZdoE Commodore v6's are a woeful example of engineering. Hmmmm pushrods, 2 valves per cylinder BALANCE SHAFTS as the engine is so out of balance in this age??? Piss poor. LIving in the 60's. Crap. I haven't had anything to do with the new 'alloytech' engines. Not holding my breath though... Depends on who makes the engine really - rb's are a very well made engine - same goes for the 2JZ's. I'm sure nissan make nice v6's although a pain in the arse to work on. Hell the new gtr runs 11's standard - I bet you'll see good engineering with their engine... Not a pushrod in sight. Cheers

Hks hi power silent stainless exhaust - I bought one and took it off as the '33 sounded like a race car! Very nice tone to it though! Beautifully made and pretty cheap...

Looks a little low for a car with standard springs

Don't forget the SOHC heads tend to crack. There's not many VL turbo's on the planet that haven't had a cracked head - everyone I knew who had a VL 10 years ago when we use to muck around with them ended up cracking their head. And that was with cooling improvements and taking every measure in making sure they were bled properly. I've got a friend who builds big power sohc vl's - but he always sends the head off to get recoed and welded up in the weak spots before he starts. So there's your 600 or so bucks gone already. Sure you can make the power no worries but it'd be such a pain in the arse if you drove it for a week and ended up with water in the oil. To make 500+ at the tyres he runs a cam and standard head - so nothing special. You won't need cams to make your 300rwkw with the dohc head. Even 350rwkw if you want. As for putting in the rb26 pistons you'd have to be someone really in the know to get the clearances right. If they measure up ok just use the rb30 pistons if you're doing it on the cheap.

Mate, Have you had a good read in this section?: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...sions-f184.html There's tons on info here on building a bullet proof rb30. Having driven high 200kw rb25's I'd go for a rb30 any day. You want as much torque as you can get. So use the rb30 block and rb25 head... Guys have made well over 300rwkw with stock rb30 bottom ends - have a look here there's a few fellas making high 300's at the tyres: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yn-t104332.html I'd rebuild the engine properly though - it's up to you really. Maybe pull the rb30 down and measure it up - if it's ok chuck rings and bearings in and it'll probably last for ages. Cheers Cheers

Have you had any headway with the Mahle's? Cheers

There's no reason why you'd have to change air flow meters on tune day. Simply select Z32 in the Air flow section of the PFC. And as everyone with any idea here has said back off your injectors and it will drive fine. Just don't thrash it and keep an eye on knock. I did similar - backed my 550's off to 70% and selected z32 afm. No worries drove it for weeks until the tuner was available. Getting a tow truck would be a waste of money with the information available to help you on this forum. Cheers

Hi there, There's a couple more differences Dale and my cars had that day. i was moving house and had a bloody heavy filing cabinet full of paperwork and books - I had a sore back lifting it into the car, 20 litre drum of methanol, toolbox, hydraulic jack, rb30 parts ie crank girdle and crank and other parts - the car was full of stuff. When I unloaded it that afternoon it felt zippier that's for sure! The other thing is rolling resistance and tyre diameter - dad worked it out and the difference is equivlent to me running 3.9:1 diff ratio compared to the standard skyine 4.11's. It's very noticable - driving out of Dale's driveway to the corner you can shift to third in his car, mine it's a second gear affair. His car feels so much better at light loads - my car feels like it's got flat tyres... It goes to show that big wheels aren't that great when all you want is acceleration and traction. Going around corners is a different matter with low profiles though! Seat of the pants the cars didn't feel that different - I haven't driven Dale's machine with a higher than 6700 rev limit though and that comes up real quick. I don't think you'd want anything bigger on a rb25 though - if you want more I reckon more cubes is the go if you want a bigger turbo. Side by side my car pulls away in third but hit forth and Dale's would overtake. The 3037 certainly has more top end! My tune isn't the finest - I don't think my water nozzle's big enough on my water meth - best I can do is 18 degrees at full load - afr's in the 11's - if I lean it out I've got to compensate by pulling a degree or two at full load. It's bloody hard to road tune if you're looking for 10 rwkw - I certainly can't tell the difference! I really like the way the 2835 hits hard around 4000rpm - if I dial in 22psi boost it wheel spins into third. Second is a bit of a waste of rubber - it's a bit silly I spose but lots of fun! Cheers

An long but interesting read here about water injection: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html Quoted from their site: I Don’t Want To Learn...Just Give Me The Answers! 1. Maximum Torque occurs at a 13.2:1 Air Fuel Ratio. 2. Transitional Fueling and Maximum Boost Air Fuel Ratios are about 12.5:1. 3. Water Injection is most efficient with a 50/50 water alcohol (or methanol) mixture. 4. Methanol, as an additive, is not a practical choice as it is prone to pre-ignition in higher than 50/50 percentages, is not safe to handle, and is not readily available. It's a good choice, but not necessarily the most practical one when you need some in a hurry. Methanol is usually found where racing fuels are sold. 5. Denatured (ethanol) alcohol, typically 95% pure, is available in paint, hardware, and Home Depot type stores in gallon containers for about $10.00. Expensive but available everywhere. Isopropyl alcohol can be used but it is often 30% or more water by content. 6. Water Injection allows ignition timing to be more aggressive or closer to stock. In other words boost does not automatically mean retard your timing. 7. Excessive amounts of ignition retard will cause a loss of power and overheating. 8. Water to Fuel ratios should be based on weight and not volume. 9 . Water weighs 8.33 lb per gallon. 10. Alcohol weighs 6.63 lb per gallon. 11. Air weighs .080645 lb per cubic foot. It takes about 150 cubic feet of air per 100 horsepower. It takes about 12 lb of air per 100 horsepower. 12. Water or Water / Alcohol to Fuel Ratios are between 12.5% to 25%. This means Air to Fluid Ratios are between 11.1:1 and 10.0:1 with water injection. 13. Maximum water delivery should be in higher load low to mid rpm ranges tapering somewhat at peak rpms where load is less. 14. Atomization of the water mixture is directly related to it effectiveness. Finer droplets cool the inlet charge better and with less mass they navigate the inlet plenum easier for more equal water distribution. 15. Don’t flow water through an intercooler. 16. Atomized water, just like fuel , does not like to make turns thus making accurate distribution something to think about. This is why port fuel injection is the norm. Water is a fluid just like your fuel. Multiple nozzles, equally spaced in the plenum, although it complicates things, is a superior design. 17. The introduction of water will allow higher boost pressures to be run without detonation. Higher pressures will increase torque. It’s always about torque. 18. Racing high octane gasoline should be used for all forms of competition and for higher than normal boost levels. Water injection as well as charge cooling should be used with racing gas. 91/92 Octane pump gas simply will not cut it. Water spray cooling of the intercooler is a good idea. 19. Fuel Injectors operate in the 1 Millisecond range and are not capable of long term usage for H20 as they will corrode or rust shut in a very short period of time. Unless a solenoid can open as fast as a fuel injector it should not be used to "pulse" water injection events as flow is not directly related to "duty cycle". 20. Varying voltage to water injection pumps or using similar schemes is a recipe for disaster. You have to eliminate the variables, not increase them. 21. Fuel Injection pumps cannot be used for water injection. Water is conductive. Gasoline is not. Water will corrode an efi pump shut in a very short period of time. 22. Water injection has a cooling effect on the engine head, valves, and cylinder. Exhaust temperatures (EGT) are largely unaffected at recommended water / fuel ratios. 23. The cooling of potential hot spots in the combustion chamber defeats pre-ignition, the most destructive form of uncontrolled or unplanned combustion. 24. Higher static compression ratios will require a higher percentage of water or water / alcohol. 25. No, water does not burn. We are not combusting the hydrogen in the H2O. 26. At around 13.2:1 or fuel air ratios of .75, EGT’s will peak. 27. People will try to selectively edit their way to get you to use water injection by stating "One can basically double the power output of an engine using water/methanol" and "It was used effectively in Formula 1 before being banned for adding too much power". This is pure bunk. Water or water/alcohol/methanol does not make power...superchargers and turbochargers make power. The cooling effect of the water injection only allows you to run higher boost pressures and leaner mixtures without engine damage. The increased density or higher pressure ratio is what makes the power, not the water. The last time we checked water wasn't a very good fuel. 28. Ferrari suspended water in their fuel during their 1980’s Formula1 period. We don’t recommend that you try this...although Acetone will mix with water.

f**k I love it how people have no idea Jeepers you woke up on the wrong side of the bed!

Exhaust leak. I wouldn't be surprsed if it's the exhaust manifold to turbo gasket - they really squeal when they go. Cheers

Hi there, I'm after a r33 gtst complete set of boot plastics including carpet if possible in very good condition - mine's been molested by a bass lover. I'm in Brissy but don't mind postage as long as the bits are in excellent nic. Cheers

Hi there, Sorry for the thread but are the r33 4 door and 2 door boot trims the same? Reason I'm asking is I'm looking at buying four door boot plastics as mine are buggered but am not sure if they will fit? Thanks in advance! Cheers

CP's - look on Ebay US, they're cheap as! Hi there, Just was checking out Ebay US but couldn't find CP's for Rb30's - do you have a link? Cheers

Wow, Very nice engine bay - I take it the new owner's had it sitting in his dirty garage for years? You didn't post up a power figure, or even better a dyno chart?? Would love to know what it made! Cheers

Hi all, There's a wealth of info in the rb30 thread - but it would be nice to have a thread about what pistons everyone's used - CR, head gasket used for CR, forged or not, brand, pin heights etc etc. I saw one guy in the rb30 hybrid upgrade dyno results thread is using 10:1 pistons on a turbo rb30. Please post away your piston specs - I'm in the process of doing up a rb30 so would appreciate any input! Cheers

Hi there, Not too sure about your wheel sizes and offsets - I've got 275's rear and 255's front, 18x8's front and 18x9's rear. It never scrubbed but if I changed the camber they most likely would. Cheers

Don't worry too much about the sealant issue - as I said there's a guy on here that's used nothing. It won't hurt to die grind out the housing to match the manifold to turbine gasket - Dale FZ1 just installed a hks turbine housing on his car and did it. It's just easy to do while it's all in bits. Also while it's apart I'd advise pulling off the exhaust manifold and doing all your studs - a sh@t of a job but who knows you might get it all together only for a week and hey presto exhaust leak. In saying all this I didn't do my studs or grind out the housing as I was in a rush and it's a pretty quick car. Turbo kit install took a day. Cheers