gtst25

Are you checking your timing with a timing light or on the pfc? Set your base timing on your CAS at 15 degrees using a timing light then tune with your pfc after that. That way you have a known base to tune from. I've never had to do anything with the ACC on any Rb. Cheers

One guy on this forum - Michael user name I think didn't use a gasket. I used ultra copper and it's been fine for two years. Good luck with the install and keep us posted - look into using a die grinder on the turbine housing inlet as it's not well matched to the exhust manifold. I didn't but next time it's in bits I will. Cheers

Injectors are a pretty big job! You'll be a pile of sweat by the time you get them installed! You running a power fc?

That's the way I've gone - an Aristo - cost all up under 13 registered - imported through an agent - looked at 40 before finding a good one though! Haven't been able to drive it yet as we're still waiting for compliance plates and have been waiting since jan. A pain in the butt as there has been a big influx of Aristo's... that's what the compliancers are saying anyway. Cheers

Hi there, Just wondering if anyone here has replaced their r33 gtst wheel bearings? If so how much were they to buy, and do you have the part numbers? Thanks in advance! Cheers

8 80's I think. That thing must be insane going down the strip.

Nah rb20's have hydraulic lifters - same as the 25's - I put pon cams in mine and they just bolt in. Cheers

If you run a pod of course it will be loud. I've got the stock airbox and 2835 - you can hear it but no unwanted attention. It's heaps quieter than standard turbos with pods.

Yes it does - make sure the water feed and return and oil feed and return go where they are designed to go. If you get stuck I can have a look at my HKS2835 - it should be similar or the same. Cheers

I believe that most people just use gasket maker goo for this. Is it just a flat sealing surface? Cheers

With exhaust manifolds the studs don't like the heat - whenever I work on diesels etc they aren't the best - getting heated and cooled to 500+ degrees 1000's of times takes it's toll I spose. Yeah goto nissan or holden - vl commo studs are the same too.

Well it's finally here! Went to the compliancers a few days ago and had a long look at the car - it's got a couple of scratches on the front bumper, a 1mm diameter chip on the driver's door and a matching one on the passenger's. Something I didn't know is it's got coil overs but looks like I'll be putting standard springs in it as it's going to be the smooth car. So yeah I'm happy and can't wait to give it a big clean up - under the bonnet it's pretty black - every import I've had has been the same. Cheers

Hi Mate, Do you have the boot trim assembly? I need the full plastic trim. Cheers

Just get rb30 studs from nissan - they're cheap enough and fine for the job. Always do your studs - you won't regret it!

If you're not a regular at the races like me and want a cheapie I bought an open face from Brisbane Motorcycles for $65. I look like a spaceman but who cares? Cheers

I don't think the bloke put his foot hard down until 4000 so probably not an accurate run. It makes boost earlier than that on the road. He was mucking around with top end timing at that stage so probably wasn't interested in low end boost. If you're not interested in increasing the capacity of your rb and want an excellent 'street' turbo than I'd look at something a bit smaller than the 2835. Cheaper too. Cheers

I've made a lot of changes since that tune. Yeah it is laggy - and everyone I've talked to with the 2835 pro s has had problems with the wastegate blowing open after about 5500. I'm going to install a 19 psi spring and see how that goes. The car is running heaps more timing than it was then and leaner in the mid and top. I'd like to meet up with anyone in the Brisbane area with the 2835 so I can compare how our cars drive. Cheers

I've got the .68 on mine - if you're into 95% street driving though if I were you I'd look more in the direction of a gtrs. Then again I think mine needs more tuning work. I wouldn't consider cams either - I think it's a much higher end upgrade ie 350 rwkw cars. I've got pon cams and they didn't make any noticeable difference. On the road there's bugger all difference between 340rwkw and 370 rwkw - just that you're more likely to have a much torquier car to drive with a turbo suited to 340rwkw. Cheers

Ok - no not the tail shaft the driveshafts from diff to hubs. Anyone here though done up the '33 driveshafts? I'm making 260ish rwkw and would like to start going through driveshafts, wheel bearings etc as it's done over 100000k's and I hate breaking things on the road. Cheers

Hi all, Had a search - I've never looked into driveshaft upgrades for my 33 gtst - I'd like to know if 33gtr driveshafts are a bolt in into a 33 gtst. If not I'd like to just replace the cv's in mine - looks like you have to pull them out and take them to a specialist though? Has anyone here done them themselves? I've fixed up commodore driveshafts before and that was a mission! Cheers

I've got 256's 8.5mm lift and they sound stock. I'm not sure if the 5mm extra will make it sound that lumpy - if you're going to the trouble of valve springs and lifters I don't think it's be worth the money spent. 1500 - 2 grand for a small amount of extra power... Forged pistons I can't see the advantage as the gtrs will run out of puff before endangering the rb25 if you don't go silly. Cheers

Yep... Straight from page 11 pfc manual. Fuel cut can be triggered by 2 things: If a fuel cut occurs while driving... Fuel cut caused by the Rev Limiter ・ This fuel cut will occur when the engine RPM's exceed the Rev Limit setting Fuel cut caused by the Boost Limiter ・ This fuel cut will occur when the boost exceeds the boost setting by 0.25kg/cm^2. The boost setting is adjustable with the FC Commander. http://www.xspeed.com.au/manuals/powerFC.pdf

Obviously the k&n flat panel filter lets enough air in to suit that power requirement without restriction. If it was making 1000 horsepower I would expect a different result - but then you'd be concerned with air flow meters etc. I'm not pushing brand name parts. I just think from my experience that the stock paper filters must be pretty restrictive in comparison to aftermarket oiled filters such as the K&N flat panel.

Why??? Less restriction will give you more power.

Because we changed the settings on the pfc boost controller to prevent this happening on the dyno. Here guys I'll put it simply: 1 - Before dyno day: Car had a new paper air filter - car went great and was driven for weeks - at full throttle no problems from memory we were running about 10 psi boost Dyno day: 2- I changed the paper filter for a K&N air filter on dyno day and on the way to the dyno found that boost now spiked a few psi higher. NO other changes had been done. This made the pfc hit fuel cut as if the boost setting is a certain amount lower than the boost result you will hit fuel cut. I then changed the boost duty cycle etc and tested it until I had better control of the boost and NO fuel cut. 3- On the dyno I tried taking the K&N air filter and airbox lid off and it made no difference between power runs. So therefore the only reason why I hit fuel cut was because we changed the air filter from paper to K&N. Obviously the K&N air filter was less restrictive than the paper filter. Cheers