gtst25

113 mph - the best run was with track temps in high 40's, 35 degree day of all things. There is definately is more in it in tuning and boost level/control wise but I'm a bit sceptical on the bottom end holding up - I hate listening to them on a dyno pull. Currently it's only got the 15 psi wastegate spring - even though it's a 15 psi spring as you start to make boost even 10 psi the wastegate feed will be weakening the spring tension allowing the wategate to blow open eventually. That's why a bleed style boost control and a 20 psi spring should make a difference. Cheers

I've heard that the turbosmart e boost boost controllers like the guy is using in that link are better than the pfc boost control kit as they are a true bleed style boost controller whereas the power fc one is a on/off solonoid valve. It's probably what I need but after awhile you get a bit sick of spending more and more money. I've tried increasing the pre load on the wastegate spring and it seems to just spike higher earlier on and still fall off. User name Grepin had the same problem with his set-up and went to the extent of changing to the bigger ar exhaust housing and putting a stronger wastegate spring in - didn't fix the problem though. So there you go - by the looks of it you need to goto a bleed type boost control on the 2835 - it can't be a restriction as it's been the same on two exhausts - I have a 4'' magic cat/new trust 3'' exhaust, large blitz intercooler and clean K&N air filter - have also tried doing a run with out the air filter and no top on the airbox and zilch power/boost difference. I've also pullled out the cat to check - it's fine and the dump is hks and down pipe a well made 3''. It's hard to compare dyno figures between shops - the quarter mile is ok is spose - I've done a best of 12.7 after 6 runs down the strip but that's with 3 grand launches as suspension wasn't the best and no slicks. Cheers

Hi fellas, I've got the 2835 pro s - it's making an honest 261rwkw with cams and everything else the norm but I'm unhappy with the boost levels and tune (again!) Boost wise it goes to 18 psi and fades away to 16 psi up the top. I'd be happier running 22 psi that's where it feels a lot better. I doubt I'll run this sort of boost on the stock bottom end though I think the only problem with the 2835 pro s is the wastegate opens up past 5000rpm so you can't hold your desired boost. I'm waiting for a datalogic as I want to start tuning myself. Here's a few dyno graphs of the pro s - the 341hp and 261 rwkw runs are both mine 341 hp before cams. Cheers

Don't under estimate the oem clutch driven fan - for the slight power loss you may get it might be worth reinstalling it with the oem shrouds and see how it goes for a day. If I had a track car I'd put a lot into ducting and a very big bonnet and turbo vent. Those running temps are pretty high - but then again it'd be nice to have temp senders on both inlet and outlet of the radiator. Cheers

Yep put me down for one

Hi Dale, Here's one tune and the next on my gtst. The first tune (341hp) wasn't the best as it was running pretty rich. I see you've been playing with the vct cut in a bit - we ended up moving the change over point to 5000 rpm and it made a bit more power where it dipped before and the dip is much less pronounced than before. Might be worth mucking around a bit next time on the dyno as it takes hardly any time with the datalogit. Cheers

Unfortunately labour is expensive and it can be hard to find a good workshop these days. I don't envy people that don't have much mechanical knowledge who own older skylines - gtst's and especially gtr's. They are a wonderfully made piece of kit that unfortunately are getting old and most have had a hard life. And bad maintenance/repairs from dodgy owners. A hard lesson to learn but unless you want to learn more about you car it will cost you - I mean if my car was backfiring back through the intake I wouldn't keep driving it but solve the problem immediately. I doubt you'll get money back - I drove with heat range 7's in my 33 with stock boost for a year as I had bigger plans in sight - not a problem at all and now its pushing out 260 kw at the rears with the same plugs 4 years later. Cheers

I just bought and fitted the trust pe11. A nice system only gripe I have is when looking through the centre muffler you can see it goes down a pipe size so not a genuine 3'' system. Nice and quiet though and a 20 minute fitting job. Cheers

It also depends on what turbo you're running. My HKS 2835 pros equipped gtst had drone problems from day one of fitting the new turbo. A lot of guys recommended the jasma approved hks hi power silent which is nicely made, stainless and big being well over 3 inches. A few people have said it's so quiet you can hear the tyres and the wind on the windscreen etc. Great. I purchased one and imported it from Japan and it lasted 5 minutes. Horribly droney over the drone zone of 2-3500 rpm. Literally fitted it, drove 100 metres, turned around and pulled it back off. Ridiculously loud. Sold that and bought a trust pe2 which is ok but I think it might be a bit restrictive. It's 3 inch but I noticed in the centre muffler the tube diameter goes DOWN a wall thickness in size so not a genuine 3 inch exhaust. But the drone is now down to an nice level and it's making ok power 261rwkw on lowish boost 18psi tapering to 16 up the top. If I did it again I'd look at making a twin exhaust probably 2.5'' with the biggest centre muffler you can fit and two shiny rear mufflers or resonators. The smaller pipe diameter would most likely lift the exhaust note and move the drone zone to a different range while offering excellent flow properties probably better than a 4 inch exhaust system. From my experiences of dropping exhausts turbo cars LOVE the highest flowing exhaust possible - I think there would be a noticable gain if going over 3'' as long as the mufflers flow well too. Cheers

Yep I'll be there in a white series one gtst with a new tune. Can't wait! For those of you looking for helmets I just bought an Australian approved helmet for 60 bucks from Brisbane motorcycles - open face and comfy enough for the occasional run down the strip. Cheers

Also going to give it a run at test and tune at Willowbank this saturday arvo if anyone's interested in joining us. A few cars going including a mate's turboed V8 32 gtr. Don't think I'll run any good times as I hate thrashing it off the line. Cheers

Things to watch out for - from what we learn't look at the lobes that are pushing the valves down when removing and installing the cams. You can undo them like a head etc if you like but the only caps doing the work will be the ones pushing the valves open. You really need someone watching to see how things are going making sure you don't end up with a bend. Like just about any engine work it would be great to do it on a engine stand without the back strain. Don't forget a torque wrench for the final tighten. In the book it says to leave the crank a tdc but we moved it so the pistons were as low as possible in the bores - didn't want valves touching pistons by mistake. To do the job right I'd recommend doing the cam seals, rocker cover gaskets, timing belt, idler and tensioner and water pump at the same time if they've got a bit of age to them. The tunes on thursday so am looking foreward to seeing how things go. Cheers

Hi all, Just installed some pon cams - got a couple of side by side pics here for interest. Bit of a job - took most of the day - lots of concentration needed as no matter what you do a few lobes end up opening valves as you bolt them down. It's been running for a day now and no problems except for a slipping alternator belt on start-up which made the heart skip a few beats. Cheers.

Yes. Quite a lot of cutting needed.

Can't remember about the brackets - you can see a couple in the pic I gave you though. I put the kit on 3 years ago and was in a bit of a rush so can't remember clearly. They're an allright kit but nothing to rave about. I bought it because I like bolt ons and didn't want to have a pipe going over the radiator. Good too as you don't have to cut the body - but you will have to butcher the front bar. Cheers

As above, I'm after a nismo front grill to suit a r33 gtst series 1 non m spec. Also would consider a gtr grill but would really like the nismo - I know they're rare! As below. Cheers

Thanks for the reply, Just want to be 100% sure that the gtr grill will fit straight into the series 1 stock bar??? The one pictured below is the only one I've been able to find on the net and it's from NZ. I haven't seen any non m spec series 1's with gtr grills in - has anyone got a pic of one? Cheers - much appreciated.

Cool. Is the grill one piece with the front bar or seperate? Looking at it if it's seperate it should fit my series 1 front bar? Cheers

nengun do them delivered for more than 600 cheaper than that. Cheers

A pic off the car. Cheers

Hi fellas, Just wondering if anyone knows where you can get a nismo front grill to suit a r33 gtst series 1 front bar like the one in the black car below?? I've seen uas sell some but they're pretty expensive for what they are - and I'm not sure if they'll fit. Cheers

Blitz lm I bought from a shop where the guy painted the logo upside down... I didn't realise until I got home. I'll probably paint it black one day. They are low and I think it could have been made to fit better. Cheers

Will be down friday the 16th. Cheers

Cheers - Not sure if 33 and 34 exhausts are interchangeable. Wouldn't be surprised though - my Blitz Lm intercooler kit was the same for 33's and 34's. Cheers

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