benm

anymore pics ?

Bad choice of words, it was a figure of speech. However driving in pitch black around a corner sweeping corner, black tarmac road, 2 black tyres sitting in the middle, doing 50 in a 50 zone and good luck without ABS is all I can say.

Welcome to the world of BT (or any P2P for that matter). Theirs nothing like a good solid http server

What complete utter crap!! How is ABS dangerous to drive with? ABS can activate/de-activate a 100 times quicker than your brain/leg/foot can so having ABS makes you certainly no worse off than not having ABS. About 3wks ago I was dropping a friend off home in my estate at 2am on a very windy road (50km/h) when I came around a sharp blind corner to find some dickhead put 2 old tyres right in the middle of the road. I slammed on the brakes (activating ABS) and 'turned' around them (thankgod for the smooth curved gutters otherwise i'd have no frontbar) and drove along the side of the gutter. I'd put money on it that without ABS you would have driven straight into the 2 tyres ripping your frontbar off whilst your front wheels were pointed towards the side gutter. Now back on topic....

Still no interest? * $1,300 spent in '05 already. * Now making 198rwkw on the stock turbo/ecu. * Ready for PowerFC/Injectors/Turbo to make some big HP or throw a set of 18's on it and just enjoy it. If you have a 32 GTR then lets do some talking...

Geno8r: Mate do yourself a favour and go to a proper exhaust shop and get this done the correct way. I had the exact same problem (only my snapped bolt was the firewall end) and only had it fixed about 1mth ago. The problem happened 8mths ago (or... about 10,000km ago) and my car was running like absolute sh1t for the past 5,000km. Boost was erradic, exhaust noise was loud and droning, throttle response was terrible, power was down a good 40rwkw. Go and get this problem fixed ASAP instead of waiting 7,000km until your major service (it will cost more then). Don't just fix the problem that you can "see" because the problems you can't see are: More than 1 bolt will be snapped - gauranteed If you are replacing 1 bolt you may as well replace them all. Your manifold may have warped (mine did which required extra labour/expertise) IC pipes and Turbo need to be removed Radiator fluid needs to be changed You need atleast 1 gasket. It cost me $581 to get my car fixed at a local "muffler man" and took 1 guy about 7-8hrs.

S1 Bumper S1 Grill S1 Steering wheel S2 rear wing My guess is a S1.5

Knat: What are ya.. a pimp or something?

Doin well slart! Will you be making an appearance tonight?

Approx $160 to purchase (nengun) and $100 to fit/tune.Best bang for buck you'll get although your power curve is very nice so you may not notice as much as what I did.

bring some along, 3 should do me fine thanks !!

This thread is 2yrs old and alot has changed since then the main thing being that the dyno used for this run appeared to record slightly higher than normal power.

My front/dump pipe dyno review here My Ex Cam Gear dyno review here Theirs a solid 15-20rwkw for you Edit: What happened from 6500-7000rpm?

Is their a way of checking if the stock AFM is maxing out? without using an aftermarket ECU?

I'd be interested to know also...

Ask her what Turn 1 at Wakefield feels like sideways at 100km/h with a tonne of dust in your car

Yup i'm in .... Northern Beaches skanks beware !!!

http://www.evilimaging.com/wsid160205/ (found this link on another forum)

* Can I swap just the AFM from a S2 -> Z32 without needing to change anything else? (ie; requiring aftermarket ECU etc) * Is their a way that I can check if my S2 stock AFM is maxing out without removing/modifying anything?

Represent!!

I raced, my first run was my new PB (not by much tho, down from a 14.145 @ 102mph). The next 2 runs were sloppy so I parked it for abit to watch all the PAC Rotory cars and heaps of other cars. Next think I know it's 10pm and i'm driving out the exit gate 14.009 @ 102.07 / 2.089sec I also managed a 0.035 R/Time too which is my PB. I was in full street trim (minus my subwoofer). Tyres (225/50/16) were still at 38psi too but I need some Nitto's now I'd say without a doubt the best nites racing in a good 3mths or more... can't wait until it's winter again !! I'm still far from happy with my times but i'm still improving each week so i'll be back again.

You - Me R/T: 0.227 - 0.206 60': 2.247 - 2.089 (+0.158) 330': 6.006 - 5.888 (+0.118) 660': 9.067 - 9.080 (-0.013) 1000 mph: 81.05 - 76.77 1000': 11.703 - 11.751 (-0.048) ET: 13.931 - 14.009 (-0.078) MPH: 101.37 - 102.07 Yup 2nd and 3rd gear letting me down. You clawed back on me just in that 330ft area.

Nah it's my 1/2/3 gear changes that are letting me down. That's what i've been working on and that's why my times have dropped a whole 0.150sec in the last 2wks

K&N Panel Filter (~$100) Full 3" Exhaust (~$1200) Ex Cam Gear (~$150) FMIC (~$1200) PowerFC + Boost Kit (~$1500) You should be seeing up around 190ish rwkw

Is the Norgren setup really that good though? I mean at the moment i'm just using a dual-stage bleed valve (unsure of brand but it's name brand) but my boost isn't holding at what it's set at (12-13psi). When I ask local tuners/mechanics I get the typical "it is because you have a stock ecu" or "thats a stock turbo for ya" etc etc when they don't even know what components I have. Do you think if I changed to this Norgren setup it would fix the problem below (set to 12 but only holding 9psi regardless of if I set it at 10 or even 13psi)... ?