benm

This is a well documented problem if you cared to do a search

Something quick and cheap you could try is tape up your coilpacks with electrical tape and then take it for a spin. If it's better you know it is coil related, if it doesn't make a difference then you know the problem could be elsewhere.

If it's a standard clutch now doubt it has done 80-100,000km along with the mods sounds like its time for a new (better) clutch.

They are under the center "Twin Cam 2500" cover.

What are they like on the rotors SK?

Abit expensive for a trackday considering that most people would go thru a solid 60L's in a day ($240 in fuel, ouch!). As you say, might be good to mix $20/mth in with 98RON just to give everything a clean/burn out in the system. Might also be a cheap fix for drag racers after a better TS

<15 maybe you would get off in court but 30-45 i'd say no way.

Most likely RB74 (front) and Comp2 (rear).

Well i'd assume boiling point is 100c meaning its 25x boiling point .... or did I do "Science for life" for a reason?

I'd recommend RB74 on the front.

Ooh i'll pencil this 1 in to spectate...

How hot is boiling point?

I'd suggest doing a search ... hrmm hangon SK already mentioned that

Click here for my before/after review of getting a front/dump pipe fitted.

FMIC, full 3" exhaust, ex cam gear, k&n panel filter, stock ecu (rsm with speed cut), stock turbo (at 7psi didnt bother with 12psi so about 180rwkw give or take 2rwkw), firm suspension struts etc, standard tyres/rims, sideskirts and low rear bumper. Quite quick up to about 210km/h then it gradually slows down to about 235km/h then from 235km/h -> 254km/h it was still moving but slower again. If his private road was longer it certainly without a doubt would have gone quicker, easily another 10km/h i'd say (altho would have taken longer again than the previous 10km/h). Sorry by that I meant the speedo needle was never sitting still it was continuously moving up n up n up.

So would an RSM be more accurate?

Smooth car anyhow...

uh?

I am unsure about the N/A but I can assure you that a 250hp (186rwkw) RB25DET is very capable of pulling 250km/h (and still pulling beyond that altho quickly running out of rpm before the rev limiter).Lets just say I have a friend that has a flat private driveway to his house/property with plenty of run-off room where hitting 250+ in an RB25DET is very achievable.

I was actually referring to the bit where you said "no doubt a mild RB25 which makes around 380hp will be able to crack it also." ...and im saying you dont even need 250hp to crack 250km/h (and you dont even need 7,000+ rpm).

Looks clean and finally a decent 1 for sale in Sydney. Now if only my GTS-t was gone i'd be extremely interested...

No, just call www.Racebrakes.com.au it will be less than that including labour.

What brake fluid do you recommend SK? After totally destroying my brake system at my first trackday I had everthing replaced (calipers and brake pedal is only original equipment) and im now using Motul RBF600 with boiling points of wet-216c and dry-312c.

Is it a rattling noise or a grinding noise?

You don't even need 250hp to crack 250km/h.