benm

Hint: The less people that download this tonight the quicker I can download which means the quicker I can put it on a 10M/Bit link rather than a 128K/Bit link.

If you compress it and split it up into ~5mb files using WinRAR I will happily host it on a much faster connection

So no excuse now for big heavy 300ZX's ?

Or you may be able to try the "fuel pump" fix...

Are you sure it is only 5psi?

Whats happening at Oran Park on Sat? Damnit too much motorsports happening this w/end at Western Syd

Hi Chris, I have my car booked in at an auto electrician on Saturday morning (in Kingswood opposite the Cemetary next to the mechanic with the big blue fence). He fixed my driver-side electric window at the beginning of the year and the mechanic next to him installed my Bosch 040 about the same time so between the 2 I don't think they will have any issues finding the correct wire. I'm getting a kill switch installed at the same time, should cost me about $100 all up. If you work out which wire it is let me know eh? I tried adjusting the idle screw as a temporary fix only to realise it has a bolt to stop it from moving itself (I didn't have the right tool / time to adjust the bolt then the screw), But have noticed that my car is revving higher when putting the foot on the clutch so not sure what is up their because the screw can't move without the bolt being adjusted first. Edit: You can come down to the electricians whilst im there if you wish or I will just let you know of the outcome afterwards.

I don't "have" to touch the throttle. I turn the ignition on until the fuel pump cuts out (~5sec) and then as I kick it over I press the throttle twice. I find if I just turn the key it takes an extra few seconds to kick over thats all.I've only had to do this since I removed the standard r33 GTS-t pump and replaced it with a Bosch 040. This saturday i'm getting that "idle" issue fixed (cutting the ground wire from the ECU and grounding it to the chassis somewhere). So I guess this means that the fuel pump will be working @ 100% all the time, not sure what impact that will have on anything else.

rofl, I live out in the West, I have to bring my car all the way to UAS because no 1 out here understands Imports. I know how to change brake pads in an R33 GTS-t if that helps :wassup:

Do you know what the brand is or what it looks like? I don't know what type/brand mine is but its like a clear white plastic with a black top cover from memory.

That's a pretty graph

Geeze tosh how small is your tank? I used ~100L including the trip down and back.

Beware of cops :wassup: *ahem* I mean i'm a "maybe" at this stage.

If Carlo would lend me his cheater tyres i'd be there :) My road tyres are down on rubber since the Wakefield day we had there only a month ago.

I'd want double-time rates to work next to John everyday :wassup:

Ahuh, found my problem !! Weighing in at 100+ kg does not make me suitable as a 1/4 Mile driver

I wouldn't be using the standard fuel pump from an RB25DET with 220rwkw (370bhp). It is only rated at 300bhp (223kw at the flywheel).

If you want to improve your stopping distance a good "brake upgrade" would be better quality tyres If you have poor quality tyres they will just lockup and skid rather than stopping. If you have high performance brakes but low performance tyres they will just lockup and skid. If you want to do quick heavy braking time after time then a brake upgrade would be needed such as: Fluid, Pads, Braided Lines, Calipers.

Pics of the SR ?

Are the GTR's for sale considered "items in stock" ? Might find myself a barrrrgain

True, although he has still done a 12.9x on the std turbo

Updated.

Remembering that 2rismo is doing 11.9's on the stock turbo :D

That $2,000 doesn't count the other $2,000 I spent on my brakes Give me another 6mths, i'll be into the 13's :D

186rwkw, <10,000km = no wheel spin, do 67 laps at wakfield and its wheel spin happy. Can't go past a good set of tyres regardless of the size.