benm

Street Drags don't count the reaction time, the 1/4 mile stopwatch starts when your front wheels move to when your front wheels cross the finish line. You could actually sit on the start line (with a green light) for 15sec if you wanted to (to let the other car disappear) and -then- go and it wouldn't ruin your time. With staging... move slowly towards the little globes/lights on the tarmac (in the center and also the outside of the lane), as your front wheels break the line the first staging light will come on. Move forward a bit more and the 2nd staging light will appear and then hold it there. Once both cars have the top 2 staging lights appear the 3 ambers will light up. You can pretty much launch soon as the last amber lights up because by the time you react it will already be green. Don't stop until you have passed the big scoreboards at the other end too! I stage first (before the other car) so that I can get myself settled (feet on the pedals comforfably, good vision of everything, helmet sitting ok etc). I then hold the revs at 3,000-3,500rpm steady, soon as the last amber lights up I just drop the clutch and it hooks in (my last ~6 60ft times have pretty much always been 2.1sec). Of course you should. A 14sec (which is 99% what you will run) is still pretty damn quick for a street car! I personally dont think a street car is "really quick" until its doing 12.9sec or better but hell even a 14 flat is still 100mph. hrmm just realised 2rismo basically said what I was gonna say. Dont worry about: * your times (just worry about getting to the finish line in 1 piece) * the car beside you * your gearbox * doing a burnout * your tyre pressure (unless you are aiming for 11's dont bother) Have fun ! What car will you be driving? I'll be there (spectating) so i'll come say g'day.

Say I wanted to fix/replace my rear end suspension with something from Whiteline (Im interested mainly in drags but also light track work). . . what would I be best getting? (It's a daily driver).

That's from his motorised golf buggy !

well Merli's middle finger deffinetly isn't down on torque !!

How'd you find that out ?

UAS sell them (www.nismo.com.au)

Obviously in dire need of a tune !

Now that is pwetty !!

ok im a dickhead, had it around the wrong way :bahaha: It works perfectly now, see... :wassup: Note: Speed test was done on my 3km long driveway

very true... I'm not entered

Still not 100% if im coming or not, got a 21st party the nite before. Hrmm shit eh, i'd have to leave home at like 5:50am

I have the factory sony stacker in the boot, unsure if its connected to my JVC Mp3 player because well i've never needed more than 1 CD in the car (CD's hold around 120 mp3's).

Ok still trying to figure out this stupid thing. Attached is a pic showing that I do not have a Rev output wire like shown in every single manual I've read. Are their any other wires nearby that I can connect the Rev wire too?

~$1900

If knew how to work out all that 'timing' stuff i'd do it myself and save the $160 on installation/tuning. What happens if you put it on 2 instead of say 3? Will it be better than stock but not as good as what it would be if it was on 3 or is it only better on 1 setting and worse on all the rest ?

I gave them a call and they couldn't help me, they only deal in parts not wiring diagrams

I haven't done it myself yet (Cam Gear is sitting at home still) but from everything I have read and workshops that I have spoken to a Cam Gear will give you 10-15rwkw for only $300. A Pod filter costs ~$200 and might be lucky to give you 3-5rwkw A full exhaust costs ~$1500-2000 and might give you 15-20rwkw A FMIC costs ~$1500 and might give you 15-20rwkw I'd personally say it would be 1 of the cheapest mods available. I'll do a before/after dyno printout when I get mine installed.

Do we have a contact at Hornsby Nissan for SAU people? I need to ring someone to get a ECU Wiring Harness wire colour thingy to hookup my RSM and I thought i'd give them a call ?

13_devil I had heard the same (HKS "wears out") so just to make sure I bought a Trust Ex Cam Gear from Nengun.com for about 13,000yen (au ~$155) and recieved it 4 days later. The HKS was priced at about 12,000yen (~ au$145). You can choose from about 4 brands for a difference of around $20 from cheapest to most expensive so its pretty much personal preference. Fitting/tuning will cost you almost as much as purchasing the cam gear

For the people interested in the 400R rear bar + pods here's some pics of mine fitted and painted.... http://skylines.pnc.com.au/pics/ben/bodykit/ The 400R sits about 2 inches lower than the stock rear bar and is much 'fatter'. Goodluck with the sale 51jay

...and how much is it to refill 10lb again Adrian? (sorry, I know u have mentioned it before but I forget where...) 200sec is about 15 runs worth right.. unless you forget to switch it off as you go across the line...

If you are jacking your car up on a completely flat surface (garage concrete floor) your car isn't going to move anywhere if you have wood/bricks infront & behind the other 3 wheels. I just use the factory/standard jack points (which of course are damaged). I also have to drive the front wheels up onto some 4x2 because of my sideskirts being too low.

Updated !

What's involved in this 'engine flush' ? Is it just an oil additive (kinda like those octane booster bottle type products?) that you put in before you put the 'new' engine oil in or is it something that a mechanic has to do on a hoist etc? What are the benefits of doing this engine flush? (I read in another thread end of last year about a 'engine carbon flush' (which can also gain a small amount of power), is this the same as what you are describing?

I had most of the pressure on the jack and the stand there as a backup because I wasn't quite sure exactly where to put the stand without it causing any further damage than what is already under that part of the car due to constant use of the jack.