benm

Interesting post, I asked basically the same questions that you have in an email to www.horsepowerinabox.com only 3 days ago and this is the response I got (I cut all the dribble): - My email: Im looking at upgrading the standard turbo on my R33 GTS-t RB25DET in the next 4-6mths and I have no idea what turbo I should be looking for. My current mods are: RB25DET - 85,000km Standard Airbox with K&N Panel Filter FMIC (100mm thick made by Micks Metalcrafts in Sydney) Dual-stage boost controller (7 / 12 psi) 3" Nismo Cat-back exhaust 3" Custom Cat 3" Custom front/dump pipe Bosch 040 fuel pump (intank) Standard ECU Standard Injectors Mods i'll be doing before turbo upgrade: Ex Cam Gear Power FC + H/C Injectors I have had my car on several dyno's over the last 12mths all being Dyno Dynamic Dyno's run in shootout mode on anything from 25c - 35c weather. My results have been mixed (as expected from different dyno's) with; 180rwkw, 188rwkw, 203rwkw. I really like the minimal lag that the standard RB25 turbo has and im wanting to keep lag at bare minimum as possible. I'm after a turbo that is going to give me "up to" 250rwkw (I don't want to touch internals for quite some time yet). Their response: The Gt35 kit I do is the latest thing I am into for RB25 and I have tried a heap of different combo's. Two ways of doing it:- 1. GT35 600hp turbo with .63 external wastegate exhaust housing. 45mm Turbosmart wastegate Modified Stock Nissan manifold to take wastegate. Oil feed line and water fittings Rear turbo flange supplied and oil drain flange This requires the downpipe and wastegate pipe to be fabricated and also an air intake 4" to be made up. 2. GT35 600hp turbo with .63 integral wastegate exhaust housing modified to have GT35 core fit to it. Smaller T4 .60 compressor cover fitted to allow manifold clearance. Oil feed, water fittings and flanges as needed This requires a 2.5" inlet adapter to turbo made and the downpipe off the turbo and oil drain made. I left the prices off the reply above just incase they change over time as people read this thread (now or in the future). To me it sounds like alot of work and mucking around along with a huge expense just to get 250rwkw (if SydneyKid says it can be done with standard injectors and a bolt-on Hiflowed stock turbo).

I left before Buster ran his but the highest when I left was a Supra with 358rwkw. Of the 25 cars that went on the dyno before I left about 20 of them were between 100-180rwkw.

About $5 reg post or about $8 express post.

Yup when the RB74's have been bedded in properly they are a fantastic pad for the price. The funny thing is... the hotter they get the more they work.

Yup i'd be up for a copy thanks.

1 more sleep........

I love how some people say this. Its like you need to run really high boost for it to make lots of power when their are plenty of cars out there making huge amounts of power on less boost How did you "blow up" your standard turbo? What boost were you running? Checkout: http://www.gcg.com.au/catalogue/Turbos%20-...ring.html#gts-t

Yessir !

^bump^

Excellent day, can't wait to see some vids.

If he is using the standard turbo and with semi-slick tyres i'd be aiming for a 13.0-13.4sec pass (thats if the standard turbo doesn't blow up on 15psi). :Bang:

So if a Whiteline handling pack could fix this problem for 17x9's could it also fix it for 18x9's (R34 GTR Rims) ?

I have 225/50/16 tyres on my stock r33 gts-t rims. I believe you can fit either 205/55/16 or 225/50/16 as that is the only 2 sizes i have seen on these rims.

No.

Nah a total of 3 streets. The first 4 sessions was on the 1 street, the 5th was on another road and the 6th was on another road again. I felt like an epileptic after all that braking hahah.

"stop damnit"

Its a totally new venue built right next to the actualy Eastern Creek Track (uses the same access road).

I have Koni Adjustables in my r33 GTS-t, although what the adjustable part is im unsure hehe.

I'll take 3 thanks.

Rewards to anyone that can find the solution (no I aint kidding). My mechanic said that if it still wasn't right after today that he would have it for another day to pull apart the master cylinder again and check that everything is doing what it is sposed to do.

Got the mechanic to re-bleed my brakes today in an effort to try and fix the inconsistent pedal. Before I dropped it off to him it was: pump+pump=brake, pump+pump=brake. Now after the bleed the pedal is just consistently low (grrrr x10000) but it still stops very nicely. To test it I wanted to murder them abit to see what they really felt like (I also wanted to test the K&N Panel Filter I put in so I wasn't exactly accellerating slowly between stop) so I did: 60->20km/h 60->20km/h 60->20km/h stop and turn around 60->20km/h 60->20km/h 60->20km/h stop and turn around 100->20km/h 100->20km/h 100->20km/h stop and turn around 130->20km/h 130->0km/h stop and turn around 60->20km/h 60->20km/h 60->20km/h (90sec of 50km/h driving not using the brakes at all) 80->20km/h 80->20km/h stop at lights. ...then I just drove home normally the rest of the way (about 3km). The brakes smelt quite nice when I got home Now whilst I couldn't notice my pedal getting any lower I was hitting the ABS on the 3rd set of 60->20km/h braking as it was a different road (the smooth type of tarmac) where as first 4 sessions were all done on the rocky type of tarmac so I guess the brakes were still biting pretty hard at that stage. Infact... I think they just wanted to keep on going n going but I was starting to annoy afew people on that stretch of road so I decided to go home. Now If I can get the mechanic to workout why the pedal is consistently low and fix it back to being consistently firm i'll be quite a happy camper.

ahh just the thread I was searching for.... Got the mechanic to re-bleed my brakes today in an effort to try and fix the inconsistent pedal. Before I dropped it off to him it was: pump+pump=brake, pump+pump=brake. Now after the bleed the pedal is just consistently low (grrrr x10000) but it still stops very nicely. To test it I wanted to murder them abit to see what they really felt like (I also wanted to test the K&N Panel Filter I put in so I wasn't exactly accellerating slowly between stop) so I did: 60->20km/h 60->20km/h 60->20km/h stop and turn around 60->20km/h 60->20km/h 60->20km/h stop and turn around 100->20km/h 100->20km/h 100->20km/h stop and turn around 130->20km/h 130->0km/h stop and turn around 60->20km/h 60->20km/h 60->20km/h (90sec of 50km/h driving not using the brakes at all) 80->20km/h 80->20km/h stop at lights. ...then I just drove home normally the rest of the way (about 3km). The brakes smelt quite nice when I got home Now whilst I couldn't notice my pedal getting any lower I was hitting the ABS on the 3rd set of 60->20km/h braking as it was a different road (the smooth type of tarmac) where as first 4 sessions were all done on the rocky type of tarmac so I guess the brakes were still biting pretty hard at that stage. Infact... I think they just wanted to keep on going n going but I was starting to annoy afew people on that stretch of road so I decided to go home. Now If I can get the mechanic to workout why the pedal is consistently low and fix it back to being consistently firm i'll be quite a happy camper.

From a spectators p.o.v the cars were moving through much quicker than the old track. I do believe that being the first night opened and also with the threat of rain that many people would have stayed away.

Off-Street = every wednesday (except 1 wednesday next month due to a major drag meeting).

Not only that but most of your braking is done on the front wheels (70% I believe, correct me if im wrong). 2rismo do you use a heal and toe or both feet ?