benm

If a typical engine is putting out say 180rwkw, 5% of this is 9rwkw. So if it costs anymore than $300 I wouldn't bother personally.

If their is a decent prize im on my way from Sydney with my best of 14.46sec http://skylines.pnc.com.au/drags-31-12-2003.htm

c'mon people buy some Turbo's !!! I want a nice cheap turbo in 6mths and this looks like the way to do it ))

LOL Sounds like a "place" at Kings Cross Are you sure they work on engines 2rismo?

Did you respray the entire front bar after cutting out the middle piece and using that bit to cut up and cover the 2 side holes along with the small holes along the bottom and top where the multiple brackets connect ?

Nice Al, do you have any close-up pics of how you mounted your number plate? Obviously its with small brackets but I just want to see a close-up pic of that if possible.

http://www.driftosenyou.com/videos.htm

Yes Mark your Z32AFM is an illegal modification, but if you have a stock airbox connected to it then 99.99% of cops won't know the difference between a Z32AFM and the standard r33 gtst AFM because all they are looking for is a Pod Filter.

I've had great fuel mileage on both Optimax (540km) and BP Ultimate (552km). As far as im concerned their is no accurate way to compare fuel mileage unless you put your car on a dyno, peg it at 100km/h and let it run till the tank is empty on 2 different tanks of fuel. I run my tank empty (and i mean empty) every single time just to get 400km out of it and my car runs superbly. Just by getting 2 or 3 extra sets of traffic lights a day could mean 30-40km less at the end of the week in your fuel mileage. I -always- fill up my tank with Optimax purely because its the nearest petrol station to my house (excluding the Woolworths station because that shit shouldn't even be legal). If BP was closest (or on my side of the road) then I would fill up with that... pretty simple really.

My review of a clutch I had installed last year. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=11574

The RB25DET can take alot more than that, i've seen over 270rwkw with everything standard. Franks only has the standard turbo too.

I'd say with your current mods you are on around 170rwkw in shootout mode. You won't get more than 200rwkw out of the standard turbo and thats with having all the other small bits n pieces done.

Yup I have many ideas for this 1/4 list but the biggest problem is getting SAU to participate in it. Some things I would like to add are: * Tyre sizes (ie; 225/50/16) * Tyre Brand and model * Tyre pressure * 1/4 Mile Track location * Petrol used These (to begin with) would give everyone on the list (or reading the list) some great information as it could show that the quick cars are all using similar sized tyres or brand tyre (eg; nitto) etc etc. If the people already on the list would like to PM me your answers to the 5 above questions then I can start to add this information to the list.

I taught him everything he knows (I wish !!) Someone do a search on all of his posts and collate them into a skyline manual. He could make a fortune.

I just took the 3 plastic covers off my wheel to take a closer look (woulda took some pics but parents borrowed my camera for the nite). For the last 9-12mths my wheel makes a clunk sound everytime I turn it about 90-180 deg and then clunk again when I turn it back. I'm guessing something inside is loose and is just rolling around but after taking the covers off and looking inside I can't see anything that isn't joined to another part that could be loose. Also now over the last week it sounds like a spring or something is loose along with the clunk clunk sound and it sounds like the wheel is gonna fall to pieces in my hands 1 day when driving. I can get a 2nd hand good condition wheel and hopefully just straight swap it but if my current wheel just needs a bolt tightened etc then i'd much rather just tightened the bolt and get another 6mths out of the wheel (if the leather will hold up that long). Anyone got any ideas ? From what I can see (with a torch) their is just 2 weird shaped bolts on either side and then I guess the wheel just slides off (??). Underneath I can see 2 different plugs. It looks like 1 is a cable plugging into a socket and the other is just to cables plugged directly into each other. Which 1 of these 2 needs to be unplugged to de-activate the airbag?

So a 230-250rwkw turbo on a r33 gts-t with standard ecu would still work? I'm guessing that an S-AFC would be required just to make it actually work though or could you just bolt on the aftermarket turbo, reset the ECU and just put up with what you get ?

With the right driver this car will do 12's, its in fantastic condition too which is a bonus http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30303

Me too. Why is it so difficult to have the same brand+type dyno's all calibrated the same way to give the same results (obviously air temps, fuel etc would need to be identical) but even ~12% is a massive difference between 2 different dyno's (ie; I got 23rwkw less on a dyno that was done on a ~25c day compared to a dyno done on a ~35c day even after more mods and my car being noticably better to drive).

I'm just curious as what it is Nissan would have to do that I can't ?

Any of these: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=29259

70% car; 30% driver

It might be that the clutch is slipping when it gets too hot ???

$150ish

You could try: * http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=29259 * Drop in to your local mechanic and ask him to supply+fit it for you. I got my local mechanic to supply + fit a Bosch 040 for $340 (about $50 in labour).

Remove the K&N Pod filter and put the standard box back on. Then sell the Pod Filter and buy a K&N "panel filter" to put inside your standard nissan box. This will do 2 main things: * Keep the cops off your arse for having an exposed Pod Filter * Get a direct feed of cold air thru the standand snorkel attached to the box. Hot air = Bad. Cold air = Good. So far your cost is $0. The next thing to do is fit a 3" front/dump pipe and a 3" Cat to your current 3" Cat-back exhaust system. You will instantly notice a difference mid-range and also off-throttle and dyno runs will show you a good 10rwkw extra power over the standard nissan exhaust, it will also raise your boost by around 2psi. Your now up to ~$750 Next thing would be to get yourself a set of "pineapples" (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=before%2Fafter) and this will improve the backend under accelleration. That bumps you to ~$900. I'm sure that will cover you for a month or 2, seeya at WSID.