Well I finally got my car back today after having the master brake cylinder bored and sleeved. They had my car for 4 days (about a day longer than it was sposed to take) and it cost me $395 all up (remove master cylinder, courier to workshop in the city, sleeve and seal, re-fit to my car, new brake fluid and bleed the brakes). I swear my car has gone through more bottles of brake fluid this year then engine oil, I can think of 4 bottles off the top of my head.
The brakes are deffinetly better now but im -still- not 100% happy after the amount of money i've spent. The brake pedal still goes down quite abit before any actual friction is noticed. The only thing I can think of right now is that im using RB74 front pads which are probably alittle too high quality for just normal daily driving to work and back (ie; 50-60km/h streets with no -heavy- braking), so they don't get a chance to get up to operating temperature with no heavy braking being done.
I'll leave it until after Xmas and then get a set of Bendix Advance/Ultimates and try that out.
Does anyone know if you can adjust the brake pedal like you can the clutch so that you dont have to push/release as much before friction is applied? I want friction to be applied about 1.5-2cm earlier then what my pedal is actually moving.
I guess the only way I will really beable to see how things hold up is the next track day I attend so that I can get some decent heat and km's into them and see how everything holds up.
The full setup is now as follows:
* Front/Rear - DBA4000 Slotted Rotors
* Front/Rear - Calipers overhauled
* Front - Goodrich braided lines
* Front - RB74 Pads
* Rear - Comp2 Pads
* Master Cylinder bored and sleeved
* Master Cylinder brace
Hopefully this setup will last the lifetime that I have the car (at present the next 25 years haha).