benm

When u lend me your tyres

trackday bug yes, cheater no. Once i have my brakes sorted out (got some proper fluid now and also need to learn how to use them better) im expecting about 3-4sec a lap quicker just from that. With a better set of tyres im hoping for another 5+ sec quicker. Won't be long and i'll be under 2mins at EC, probably early next year.

No point trying to connect a sewer pipe into a garden hose....

Yup i noticed the difference immediately. Was money well spent thats for sure. Just don't forget to buy a 3" Cat also.

Heres a before/after dyno between stock and custom 3" front/dump/cat. I'll be buggered if i can find the thread i created 6mths ago when i did the upgrade. http://skylines.pnc.com.au/dyno-203rwkw.jpg

while ur at it email it to me [email protected] pweease

Or you could just get good tyres for your current R33

I can't believe you are still only using 205's. C'monnnnn do some 1/4's I wanna see you do some low 12's.

No but EC over and over again @ 200km/h and after losing my brakes last time I don't want it to happen again (even though i've now upgraded from DOT3 -> DOT5 brake fluid) losing your brakes is damn scary man.

Slicks eh, interesting ! How cheap and how used ? (As in approx how many km or laps would I get at EC with no drifting doing 2:00 laptimes?). To get RE540 Semi-slicks in 225/60/15 it was going to be like $290ea.

It looks like it, thats cool I want 1, what are they worth ?

The cruise to Palm Beach was enjoyable last time. Maybe a different beach this time with some seating areas.

Well as of about 5wks ago... Michelin Pilot Preceda 225/50/16 = $235ea Dunlop FM901 225/50/16 = $279ea In the Wheels Magazine test the Michelins came first and the Dunlops were 4th or 5th. That was enough info for me to make a decision.

I'd recommend Michelin Preceda's. I fitted these recently and im very happy with them for the price paid (cheaper than other brands that were rated less by Wheels Magazine). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ghlight=preceda They pull up damn good too now that I have removed the glazing on my brake pads http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=21459

I've updated the initial message to now include both FRONT and REAR instructions/pictures.

What are the costs like with the Nitrous bottle? Like how long does it last for, how much nitrous does it hold, how much to refill etc etc ?

Digging up an old thread but... * What do stock 16" wheels weigh ? (approx) * What do TE-37's weigh ? (approx) * What do other 17-18" wheels weigh ? (approx)

That Yellow R34 looks damn good for the price. I think for the Fatz a 1.6L Excel with a factory bodykit and wheels. :bahaha:

Says who? Theirs no rule or law that says all cars make the same amount of power with the same mods. Infact i'd give u $100 if u could find 2 cars with identical mods making identical power outputs. Whats my boost guage got to do with anything? The boost "gauge" has nothing to do with a dyno run. The boost is measured on the computer (Alot more accurately too). Technically and in theory yes, but my injectors are 8yrs old and so is my fuel pump so who knows what they are "actually" running at. One thing I have learnt with cars (and dyno runs) is that you can't expect to bolt on the same mod as the guy (or gal) next to you and expect the same power increase, coz it just doesn't happen. Also like i said... at the end of the day its just numbers. I'm 20sec slower around a track than a stock R33 considering I have more power. It doesn't all come down to power, thats just 1 thing of many. I'm now chasing that 20sec not the 20kw.

Interesting results... Now all u need to do is *borrow* someones carbon fibre bonnet with the vents in it and see how much of a difference it makes (obviously weather and traffic conditions would be hard to keep accurate).

I can change brake pads Took me 40mins on the r33, im sure I could get it down to about 15mins if i really rushed things.

No I didn't they just stayed where they were. Besides you'd need a pretty small sized G-Clamp to fit it in there. Well that was my theory too and it seemed to be correct.

Thats debatable as it depends on the condition of the ending. But yeah ~140rwkw is probably about right. Front Mount Intercooler.

I've posted them elsewhere but anyway.... 1995 R33 GTS-T (red coz red is faster) 75,500km Motul Engine Oil FMIC HKS Pod (no box or cold air feed) 2 stage boost controller (7psi / 12psi) Custom 3" Front/Dump/Cat Nismo 3" Cat-back Standard Turbo Standard ECU Shootout mode 7psi = 190rwkw 12psi = 203rwkw (leaning out) Standard mode 7psi = 177rwkw 12psi = 188rwkw At the end of the day though its just numbers (hopefully that i'll turn into a 13.Xsec pass down the 1/4 in the not too distant future). I'm also confident that I can get it alittle higher, maybe another 5-8rwkw from afew more cheap mods over the next 2-3mths.

First of all I don't take any responsibility do this at your own risk (as I did). This guide is for the front pads on an R33 GTS-T. Although i suspect other models would be extremely similar. FRONT PADS 1. Put a brick behind your rear wheel and then release the handbrake. Loosen your wheel nuts and then grab your jack and a jack stand ($20/pair at Supercheap) and jack car up to suitable height, then remove the wheel. 2. Remove the spring at the back of the caliper by pulling upwards and then slide it towards you to remove. 3. Push the bottom of the metal bracket inwards to loosen the tension and then slide the bottom pin out towards you. Then remove the top pin taking the metal bracket with it. 4. Slide the brake pad outwards in an even manner removing both metal shims as well. Note the position of these shims. (You can figure out the way the shims go by looking at the marks on the back of the old pads if needed.) 5. Do the same for the pad on the other side of your rotor and then reverse all of the instructions to put everything back together. (If you are just checking your pads or want to remove the glaze from them grab some 80 grit emery paper -$1ea page- and rub the pads in up/down/circular motions for 30sec to roughen them up) 6. Check, check again and then check everything again 3 more times before driving. 7. Pump your brake pedal 2 or 3 times. REAR PADS 8. Literally exactly the same as the front only the caliper and brake pad are slightly smaller. Everything else is near identical. 9. Find a suitable street/area to bed your brakes in (I did 6x 100km/h -> 50km/h and then 2x 60km/h -> 20km/h brake sessions and then drove using no brake pressure at all for 15mins before returning home). Some people will say different things and I couldn't remember exactly so thats what I done. Basically you are burning off the resins used in manufacture of the pad and matching the pad to the disc face. The whole process above took me the best part of 40mins and it was the very first time I took the wheel off my car let alone removed the brake pads. Most mechanics will charge $40-60 for this (from memory) and I seriously would say its easier than changing your oil (and heaps cleaner haha). The next time I do this (everytime I change my oil from now on) it will take me the best part of 20-25mins so Mark Skaife you better boot 1 of your chief mechanics coz im on my way !!! If you have any constructive criticism or feedback lemme have it.