benm

What sorta tools are needed? (ie basic tools or specialised brake tools?) How much were the seals? Where can I buy them from?

Qualifying has started. If you cant get a stream download TVU from http://www.myp2p.eu/softwareitem.php?softw...p;part=software and stream the SpeedTV channel from http://www.myp2p.eu/broadcast.php?matchid=...amp;part=sports

An even easier way to push the pistons back in is buy a small metal bench vice from your local hardware shop, then cut the clamping faces so they are the same width as the top of the caliper where the pads slide in then insert the vice into the top of the caliper and slowly wind the handle so that the vice pushes the pistons back. Works extremely well, very fast and only cost about $15.

Buy plugs that are 0.8 rather than regapping 1.1's (most 0.8's are the same plug number with a -8 at the end). Many misfire problems are caused by aged coils, spend $500 on a set of splitfires and you will be amazed at the difference. On a side note, when I changed the plugs in my Toyota Hiace at 100,000km the guy tried to sell me Iridiums as they are the factory plug that Toyota uses due to the difficult location on the engine. I handed them back and bought a set of coppers and ran them for an entire 100,000km without any issues at all. I've now run a second set of coppers for 103,000km without any problems

picsorban!

Even with the 4wd sump adaptor and rb30 is not a 'straight fit'.

I own an 89 and a 94 and the only difference i've found is the rear diff cover is different, my 89 has cooling fins my 94 doesn't. The clutch setup is different, 1 is pull the other push but thats nothing major.

Here are some more ideas for your doors Duncan...... Im about 80% done on the passenger and about 50% done on the driver side. The bottom part of the window frame will sit under the alloy, then i'll get the frame welded to the door at the side mirror part and welded at the door lock end. Then just weld on some small tags spaced out around the frame to the replacement window can be screwed in tight. Still not quite happy with how it looks yet, might scrap that piece and bend it using a different method. I still have my doubts if it will even all work yet need to make sure the door can shut properly etc.

Bring back the Sports Sedans (yes I know they still exist but not like they did 15yrs ago).

Ummm traction issues start in a gts-t at about half that power - good luck

Typical costs of each stage?

Finally a reason to buy an R35...

I have plenty of time and room, but no knowledge and limited funds. Maybe we need to make some trades... I spent 6hrs in the past 2 days working on my road gtr and none on my track gtr. It probably needs a solid 12hrs work before it's ready to get a cage fitted

Well seeing as though no 'drag' gtr's entered we won't know....

SuperLap did stop the BS, it showed which cars are 'sorted' and which need more work and it did this all from the laptimes. Drivers, Owners, Workshops, etc can say whatever they like, at the end of the day the laptimes are there to show the cars that were setup right for the day.

Never had that problem ever, both of my gtr's never go over mid 20's even on 40c days running to redline many many times.

Meeting Duncan is the last thing you would want to do at a trackday, even him just looking in your general direction is enough for your own RB26 to want to throw a bearing....

Nah it was that gunmetal 1 pictured, as I took those pics a person got in it and drove off and it left an oil line all the way through the back pits until it was out of sight. I reckon their would have been easily 0.5L of oil just sitting in the spare wheel part of the boot - probably just a couple of loose fittings or something but I personally couldn't drive my car up and down my own driveway if it was like that let alone at a track.

Here is a picture of the gunmetal gtr dry sump setup. That boot was absolutely covered in oil and it left a trail of oil on the ground everywhere it went out in the pits. This is the BSM setup, that car is immaculate from every angle...

damnit I thought people had forgotten about that....

Steven is just another Brad Jones - been there awhile and people recognise him but will never ever win a race on outright speed.

Specs of the long engines?

Not sure why I can't edit my thread but anyway: new price of $16k

You will learn quickly with these cars that you can do things half arsed and get half a result or you can spend the cash and do it properly and not have to worry about it again. In the end its cheaper to just pay the cash upfront and do it properly instead of constantly chasing you arse. Take a look at the www.HPI.com.au drag records to see what combo's are being used.

I agree that in Clubsprint class that the registered owner of the vehicle should be the driver. A pro driver can make any car go fast.