benm

225/50/16 @ 28psi Remember they are road tyres not drag radials so lowering the pressure won't have much/any effect on performance like a drag slick or radial would.

If you have to buy tyres for your 16" rims than for an extra $100 you could get the above mentioned.

This is exactly what is needed and nothing more: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...es-t204639.html

Doing the modification.

standard 16" with M/T ET Street or sell them and get a pair of R32 GTR or 300ZX rims and buy some nice 255/50/16 drag radials.

Justjap have a nice deal going for you: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...RB-t204414.html So much cheaper than I first thought, wouldn't take more than an hours labour if it is a straight fit to your existing cat-back exhaust so you should be able to have it fitted for about $500 all up.

The more threads I read about the removal of the Hicas system the more difficult it becomes

What was your 60ft times? Their is some easy time to be made up at a reasonable cost. 1) Get yourself a pair of R32 GTR rims (or 300ZX rims) and buy a new pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street tyres. This will lower your 60ft time without a doubt and should cost under $700. 2) Get a 1 piece front/dump pipe along with a new hiflow cat to finish off your exhaust system. You will have more power right through the rev range which will result in a higher terminal speed (currently ~94mph) and should cost under $700 as well.

Don't know why but I don't follow the A1GP Championship, probably because the drivers are all unknown to me however the racing on the sunday was absolutely fantastic (better than many F1 races). That Canadian driver can really steer in the wet, see him take the outside of turn 1 in the wet he forgot where the brake pedal was.

post prices

The 3rd episode was on Friday nite at 8pm (as it is every week). The show had massive potential, until Ian Luff was made the head honcho because he praises everyone through the event cheering and saying how brilliant their cars are but then smacks them down at the end saying they are pathetic and car can't handle and has too much power yadda yadda. The show is only 30mins long, the first 10mins is introducing each driver and car every single week, then it's about 15mins of the actual event which they don't show you each car performing just snippets of each car doing burnouts or the drivers talking etc then the lat 5mins is Ian Luff pulling himself off to an audience. Dom (RX-7) is the only driver taking it seriously and the most genuine guy, all the other v8 drivers just want to do smoke shows and the Ferrari driver is too busy infront of the mirror making himself look pretty. Andrew in the 200SX spends more time in the workshop than the track and at best will finish the show in last position. You can download each episode in low quality avi from ns.com

Yeah the show is going from bad to worse. The guy with the Ferrari couldn't be a bigger tosser if he tried and apart from Dom (and Andrew because he is yet to have a go) the rest aren't taking anything seriously and wouldn't have a clue where the brake pedal is. I'm not sure why Andrew was out of this weeks event, I don't know how closely they filmed each episode but I wouldn't think it would take more than an afternoon to source and fit 2 axles on a 200SX in melbourne. I can see why this show is on Foxtel only, it wouldn't last a week on FTA.

Where can I get a 'pressure release spring" and what does it look like? Also, I didn't think standard oil pumps could be bought new anymore, only N1?

Plenty of difference between SAU and these other big clubs tho... The majority SAU forum users would be made up of <25yo's many whom are single, are working but not on high incomes (ie just finished study or only working part-time etc), still live at home with the parents and bought a Skyline because it looked fully sick and wanted to race mates at the traffic lights! Then you look at say the MG club which would be made up of 40-50-60yo's, probably semi-retired with hardly any debt, kids are grown up and moved on, on higher incomes due to having a longterm career or even having their own business so plenty of time with plenty of money. May not be entirely accurate, but it wouldn't be far from the truth.

Buy 1 that already has jap suspension, exhaust, filter and possibly an ecu or aftermarket turbo's. They are very basic upgrades but can easily cost over $7k. Then once u have found 1 with the above spend another $7k on it and you will have what you want, a reliable 300-350kw gtr.

I'll go out on a limb and say that I believe the expensive batteries are overated. I had a $250+ Optima in my gtr and within 6mths the battery was faulty (wasn't run flat, actually faulty) where as the only time a battery dies in my van is if I leave my lights on overnight etc. NRMA will give private usage a 1-2yr warranty where as couriers and taxi drivers get 3 or 6mths warranty maximum because of how much strain we put on them constantly starting and stopping our engines over very short distances (ie; hardly any charging time between cranks). A comparison on my vehicles: GTR: Cost = $~250, start/stops approx 1,500x a year (4x a day) is lucky to last 2yrs on average. = $0.08 per/crank Van: Cost = $~120, start/stops approx 10,400x a year (40x a day) and I get 3yrs out of them. = $0.003 per/crank (or about 26x more efficient) The main reason for the price difference is size and weight more so than quality I believe.

Very capable of 300kw all day every day, many people say they are even capable in factory form of 400kw with ARP bolts.

Were all 4 tyres on the asphalt when you braked/turned in or did you have a tyre off the side on the dirt/grass? A couple of years ago I seen a Porsche Cup car on its first outing (driver had just purchased the car from Jim Richards 1wk before, still had his signage on it) as he put his foot on the brake at the 100m marker the back right tyre was on the grass and it stepped the car around and he slapped the wall where the marshalls stand right at the end of pitwall. If he slid another 5m he would have missed absolutely everything, even the infield grass.

I spent many hours on the weekend printing out the service manual and putting it in plastic sleeves in a display folder. It's way easier to read that way and it means you can have the folder (or page) in the garage with you when working on your vehicle. Cost me about $60 in materials from officeworks.

The results are based on how the vehicles look, feel and sound rather than actual times and speeds.

x1

no but a competitor has posted low quality avi's on ns.com if you do a search.

Any pics russ?

I've been told by a couple of people that have/seen the Bonds Rollbars don't hug nicely, any comments on that? My workshop quoted $2000-2500 in steel for 6 point which compared to posted prices is quite expensive it seems.

11.99 you need a license (<$100 from memory) under 10.99 you need cage and various other safety devices.