foznice

I agree with ads about blanket banning. If restricting the power of younger drivers is to be done, then I think that the power weight was a good way of governing it. The blanket bans, I think, are purely political and are only around to increase votes. The point is clearly proven about the 13second skyline and the 18second valiant...... If they wanted to tighten things more then they would lower the power/weight ratio again, instead of the BS blanket banning..

This is the first that I've hear that the probabtionary license period will be going for four years as of the 1st of July. (if thats true).. So: for those of us who already have ouy P's, do we get our full licenses three years after we got our P's or 4???

I see, but if lanoline dosn't evaporate, then why use it on electrics, as the point of the WD40 was to evaporate excess water? Not trying to be a smartass or anything, just don't understand what your saying.

my bad, didn't read your post properly.

WD40 is probably conductive, but it evaporates, which (so i've heard) takes mostiure with it.. so in effect it dries the the electrics.

for timing belt change: Tensioner NSK: 60TB 0683 EA7L 806 Idler NSK: 56TB 2801 B01 ENSL 309

Ok my bad, I have the nessecary numbers... now that I've started a thread though I'll post them up for future reference: Tensioner NSK: 60TB 0683 EA7L 806 Idler NSK: 56TB 2801 B01 ENSL 309 timing belt Nissan: 13028-20P10

i had an alright time with my stocker, my best time was a 15.2.. i was getting speeds in the 90's.

Andyn, would you be able to post up the part numbers for the two of them? Did you happen to find out if they are the same as for the rest of the RB engines? Cheers

Yeah, 2rismo, I think you'll find that the pressure reading on the gauge (gauge pressure) is different to the actual air pressure in the tyre/manifold (absoloute pressure)..... The gauge pressure = absoloute pressure - atmospheric pressure, so that as Warren stated you can understand the difference in pressure. So if a tyre pressure gauge reads zero, the pressure in the tyre isn't zero, it's just atmospheric pressure.

compare the price of the engine swap, to how much it would cost to rebuild the engine. It may be better off paying a little more to rebuild it, as you probably won't know the detailed historty of the engine you might be replacing it with? Maybe try the DIY coilpack fix for now, see how that goes for you, it dosn't cost much if I remember correctly, save your money for the engine. And if then they're still playing up, go for the split fires.. maybe even consider buying second hand ones... You can get a whole set of six on ebay for only $120... although you don't know how long they're gonna last till they crack and die too..

ahhh I see. Were they actually intentionally drifting?

thanks chrisso. I thought the bearings cost $71 for the two?? ^^^^^^^

times like these, when I wish I had awesome fast mega broadband.......

lol, where did you find these roy?

this is whack.. VB - Just keep trying Troy's original link... you'll get it eventually (sometimes main pages, sometimes the real deal)

I have this exact same issue.... I have always ignored it, knowing that oil pressure senders/gauges tend to be faulty and scare the shit out of their owners............... But now I'm scared.. I might just go and check out the oil pressure next week.

hmmm well I'll soon have a bit more time on my hands, So I've come back to this thread to finish my aircon saga.... I went to regas the AC a couple of months back, and it seems that it does have enough refigerant in the system, and the compressor appears to be working fine............ So my 'hot air' problem is from something along the electrics line... So I did the test just before.. I again got the 25 error code - it's all good and the negative 26... or "-26"... I believe this is the PBR from looking at the Dave's original post and the "sky is the limit" book which has a reference on the climate control diagnositcs... Perhaps the negative is just supposed to be a dash? I also noticed that I get the error code '34' when doing the actuator testing eg - the motor for the feet is having a bit of trouble... which would explaina the SQEAK SQUEAKKKK SQUEAKYYY sound that is always made whenever the mode of the climate control has changed... Might have a look at this too. PBR by the way is apparently the hot cold engine/ambient air flap thingy.. Which completely explains why there's hot air come through all the time. Does anyone know if this 'flap' is vaccum operated or electrically operated? Because as previously mentioned, when I give it a bit of stick from first or second, I hear a little pop or thud, and then hot air comes flodding in... My mental picuture was that the little pop/thud is the flap opening. So perhaps if the flap was vaccum operated, and there were leaks in the pipe or something, maybe it could be effected from the engine boosting??? Maybe it's just the acceleration of the car that's throwing the flap open - I've acutally seen the flap so I have no idea if this is possible or not... But yeah these are my thoughts... I will be taking apart the dash next week to get to the bottom of all this, I'll try and include some photo's too.

lol ok.

Hey SK, any chance of those pics coming back?

would NSK know what part numbers are for what part? Eg, would they know if they would fit RB20?? Also, Is it possible to buy without the pulleys? As I can use the press at work and save me some money..... Wonder if they post to melbourne.... Suppose I should just ring them...

aww thats no good to hear james. I also have bad news... some sort of squeal coming from around the cam cover area on idle, at all tempereatures... not cool.. Put me back on the 'interested' list, as I'm not going to cane it up the quarter until the problem is properly diagnosed.

what the f**k were you smoking sam?? happy birthday tharaka!

damn, I'd be there if I didn't have an exam on the 13th. Have some serious cramming to do. When are you leaving shan? Will this be your last breakfast of champions meet?

Definite - Rylan - r32 gtst.