foznice

its funny how things have changed on here regarding the r32gtst and the power/weight rule. A year or two back it was black and blue among these forums that the 32gtst was under the power weight restrictions......... It's interesting that the later model's are officially deemed under the power/weight rule due to the side intrusion bars. Because the earlier models are fitted with side intrusion bars during compliance, so all things being equal they should also be under the p/w ratio... although that isn't 'official'.

hahaahhaahahahh The ad is the oringal silly.

ok, so you can go from hot air to ambient? If thats the case I'd go regass for sure

I thought thwaits left becuause he was cut that he didn't get the top job? Meh. I try not to think about politics.

So is it blowing HOT air all the time? EVEN if you had no gas at all in your system, and the compressor was shagged, you should at least be getting ambient temperatures. If not, then theres still something wrong with your blend door or electronics. And yeah R12A FTW, although I'm using r134a with good results, If I'd have known of R12 at the time I would have walked that path for sure .

I reccomend taking the radiator out. Makes removing the harmonic balancer alot easier and it will probably save your knuckles from a good skinning. You can line up a torsion bar so that it's up against one of the rad supports or the ground even, and use the starter motor when cracking the big mofo bolt for the harmonic balancer... some people don't like to do that though.. As someone said, just line of TDC 1, and everything should be fine. Just check the markings about 50 trillion times before you put it all back together.

I think his problem is he can't control the temp. Like the blend door actuator is stuck on the 'hot side'. Try and take the airconditioning out of the equation just for the moment. Turn it off, and then press 'mode' to select your mode, and then turn the fan on so that it's running without the AC. Then, when the cars warm have a play with the temp control, go from 32 to 18 and see what happens. Its the middle of winter, so the blend door will just switch from pure outside air, to heating the outside air (leave the re circ button off). How old is the refrigerent? If it has any at all?

Hey all, I have a light up panel in my r32 ready to go on. I need something to stick on with, but I'm not sure what to use. It has to stick well so that it will stay on obviously, be durable and waterproof, but it HAS to be able to come off relatively easily in case I need to repair or sell the panel, and it needs to come off without damaging the paint on the rear bar? Any suggestions? I was thinking silicon maybe, but I honestly have no idea...

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I agree, its not like your running monster boost or anything. I would have thought stock gap would be fine, but if it isn't, mabye becuase of your exhaust, then I wouldn't really think that you'd need anything smaller than .08mm.

Hey nick, whats the difference between the nismo engine mounts and the OEM replacements?

yep, they're both intake mods so technically you SHOULDN'T get away with it, but that depends on the officer and how he/she feels/knows ect ect...

I thought silicon dried out the rubber hoses and stuff in your engine bay?

but the plumback attachment isn't connected to anything? So while you might not hear the loudsest *insert noise here* you should hear something. People with skylines have gotten something similar simply by disconnecting the plumback hose and blocking it off. I have no idea how the WRX's are set up, but the way that is, would it be very responsive? If at all? Becuase you'd think that tiny little pipe that the BOV is connected to might even be a little restrictive?? I'm merely guessing here by the way. Andrew, if you've seen the setup on skylines you'll notice that the BOV's are directly attached to the intake pipes, not off a small seperate hose, don't know if that means anything or not.....

I really don't know how you'd make a loud exhuast without the drone without a lot of trial and error work. I'm running a SS 3" split front/dump, straight into a 3.5" SS straight pipe, with one muffler at the end.. The muffler seems to do nothing. And unfortunatly, it drones like a bitch. But I don't really mind, becuase when it starts revving it starts sounding very angry. The volume is annoying. I don't want to piss of my neighbours too much and attract attention from the police. So for what it's worth I would probably leave the resonator (middle muffler) in.

SO, last resort am I? Is that how it is?

Yeah, thats part of the Race/Rally Import rules. To be able to import under them, you need to have a level 3 CAMS license. John Bowe Driver training does a package for $800 I think.

I think most roadworthy inspectors won't knock you back on minor leaks, though. So depending on how bad it is it might be worth your while to shop around? Probably easier to steam clean though

So what causes brakes to squeel? To my understanding, one of the factors was dust getting in between the shim and the piston or something or is this not true? The ultimates are a very dusty pad. I'm running project mu's on the front, with ultimates on the rear, with white wheels. And the rears are blacker than the fronts

Have a fiddle with the adjuster first, it might just be set too tightly.

if you want it loud, get a stainless dump/front, and ditch the cat. Until you get hassled, then you'll wished you would've left it quiet.

sounds like induction noise. Put an airbox on and see if it makes a difference.

that sucks bad. I'm really sorry to hear. I will definatly keep an eye out. This makes me SO angry! You can't trust anyone these days.

I just put at SS 3" split dump/front on. It made a massive difference.

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