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foznice

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Everything posted by foznice

  1. I have a normal P plate (the ones that just 'stick' to the window) on the outside of mine, with clear book cover contact sticking it onto the outside of the window. Works well. and _handbrakies_ _ _, what area do you work in?
  2. Wooo I'm the first one to wish Sam a Happy B'day. Have a good one dude. Remember that no longer being a teenager dosn't really change anything
  3. foznice

    Interesting

    is this the same Alex? As in Alex kantarvoski or whatever? ie mines_datsun, and a trillion others aliases?
  4. lol well I can't vote. I'm in the age bracket that's the title
  5. not a bad idea, about the sanding back the masked tape. Did you have any issues sanding the paint underneath the tape right off? I peeled mine off, and as you can see they did come out a little blotchty. But now that its all on the car, you don't even notice.. So its all good
  6. sounds awesome ads. Bring on the photos of palm trees, sand, water, coconuts and hammocks
  7. I have some 32 rotors (fronts and rears), they ARE UNDERSIZED. So I don't recommend use them for actually driving on. I remeber seeing someone ask for them once as they were needed for the car to have something to roll on when re spraying. Maybe you might want to make a clock out of them?? I'll throw them out after a while if nobody wants them, but I'd thought I'd put it out there just incase. Rylan
  8. Just Jap kits are from "just jap".. www.justjap.com You can get entire kits for under $400 now I believe. Keep in mind that when cutting the hole, you can get yourself in strife with the law.
  9. Very happy with the setup when I was bedding in yesterday. I say 'the setup' because I've changed a fair bit in one go, so it's hard to say where the improvements have come from. I went from OEM pads, undersized normal rotors, crappy contaminated fluid, standard lines and a lot of air in the system, to project mu pads, RDA slotted,grooved and dimpled rotors, RBF600 fluid, and braided lines. The calipers were also rebuilt. The brakes are now awesome. So at this stage I'm happy with the RDA's but time on the track will tell.
  10. just put the RDA's on mine, I'll let you know how they are after they bed in properly, and the 'zinc/gold coating' comes off.
  11. I can't tell you for sure becuase I haven't paid for them yet, but they were 40 something for the fronts and less for the rears trade price at ABS here in melbourne. Retail, I was 50 something for the fronts and less for the rears again.
  12. PM replied to skylinetas. From memory I think you can set the AMB button to display whichever sensor you want, so yours is obviously set on outside temp.
  13. I already don't care anymore, it's great! Calipers have now been rebuilt, and everything's all on the car. All I have to do is bleed them and we'll be in business! Shall take photos when the wheels are back on.
  14. Sounds good, if it does actually stick out like dogs balls (keeping in mind that that photo was right up close) then I'll probably do that.
  15. Painted the calipers today. Not entirely happy with them. They aren't BAD.. but it's just the little details that annoy me. I taped up the nissan writing for example, and it came out a little messy, although won't be noticeable unless really close up. I wish I had more time to do more coats. I was happy with the red initially, then when I was carry the two fronts I accidentally knocked them together and chipped a little paint off the front of each one. ^#&^^*^.. I was cursing for at least 5 minutes. So in an attempt to patch up the tiny paint chips, I sprayed a little more red over then, which didn't cover up the chips totally, but makes them much less noticeable. What it did draw out was the extra coat of paint over the area I'd just done, and it looked really great, making the old red look sort of.. crap. The calipers are also a little patchy as a result of this. But luckily, once again it won't be noticed unless actually looking for it/when it's actually on the car behind the rim. Being a perfectionist with this type of thing sucks. In hinsight, I wish I was on holidays at the moment, when I could take my time more. If I had more time on my hands, I would just strip them down and start all over again, but because I need my car to get to uni, work ect.. having it off the road makes things kind of difficult. So for anyone reading this thread who is contemplating doing this I reccomend: Budget HEAPS of time, overbudget, allow for mistakes and cockups and the time it takes to fix them. make sure everything is SUPER clean, I was pedantic about it, and I overkilled. After taking the calipers off the car I washed them in the parts washer, wich got the loose oil, grease, brakefluid ect ect off. Then I went home and attacked them with a wire brush. Then I poured domestos all over them and blasted them down with the water compressor. Then I soaked them in hot soapy water overnight. Then I rinsed them. Still worried I bought some mag wheel cleaner, blasted them with the compressor again, then prepsoled. I would reccomend in future, roughing up with a wire brush and sandpaper, then the magwheel cleaner, then the prepsol. Stick coathangers through them, then hang them on the clothesline to paint. It works a treat. You can paint from all angles, and get a good coat on all surfaces except the insides, which you obviously don't want to do. You don't have to worry about putting them down and have the paint on the bottom of the caliper stick to the surface or getting dirty. You can just leave them to hang there and dry. Just make sure its not a windy day, where dust and crap will get blown onto them. As I said before, wasn't completely happy with how the NISSAN writing came out.. Not sure how I would get around this in the future. Putting oil on the surface may be a better idea? I'd have to experiment. So tomorrow I'll be rebuilding the calipers, then putting it all back together and giving it a good bleed. Hopfully it will be all ready to go for the weekend, where it might cop a little skidpan love. Here's a couple of pics: And the rotor waiting for the caliper
  16. haha thanks mark! I decided to go with the red, becuase it looks ever so sexy on your car! I didn't know which paint was going to give me a good looking and lasting result, so I thought I'd go with something thats been well tested by others! As you were saying Mark, the more clearish colour coat the less metalic it is, I was hoping to go for the "less metalic, more deep colour" look. Is that what you did? As stated before I'm really scared of getting bright ricer red, so lets hope that dosn't happen. I think lucien was saying all the way back in page 2 or 3 of this thread, that if you are going to paint onto bare metal, then you need to use the CP 199 adhesion promoter, and NOT the Undercoat. Which confuses me alot, becuase the way I see it the adhesion promoter is supposed to make the METALCAST colour paint stick better.. and is therefore not metalic in colour.. so therefore the metalcast won't have the anodized look. It's all on the duplicolor website. If you have a prepainted, or plastic surface, then your supposed to go straight on with the standard undercoat stuff. Since I plan on taking my calipers back to metal, I was trying to find the CP 199 adhesion promoter. But couldn't. Autobarn tried to chase it up through the distributors - Honeywell/Holts and they said that the CP 199 isn't even available in Australia............... So I went and bought the paint and decided to just get the normal undercoat primer stuff, the guy who started this thread (Sorry I can't remember you user name and I can't be bothered looking it up at this hour), just used the undercoat as I'm guessing many people here have, and has gotten good lasting results. So fingers crossed!! Lol.. my massive thread in the importing section!!! haha. I got so into the whole thing.. I can't believe I was only 17 back then and in Year 12!!.. Time goes very quickly. I was getting up at 5 every morning looking at the auctions in Japan to see if there was anything good.. and the killer wait till it got here. Thanks for your help on this forum too Mark. Your advice has been helpful many times over the years and I really do appreciate it. I can't wait to get this brake job finished, I have (waiting to go on) new cross drilled and slotted rotors on the front (normals on the rear), project mu pads on the front, ultimates on the rears, braided lines all round, RBF600 Fluid, and the caliper overhaul kit waiting to go.
  17. has anyone ever DIY'ed the input shaft bearing? Would love to have a crack but I think it's a fair bit out of hands. I have the same symptons in neutral, except in first and second my car continues to whine.
  18. just take it to your local repco or autobarn, they should be able to match it up with something that they have there. I've never had trouble with fuses before, sorry I can't be of more help.
  19. I'm having serious difficulty finding the Adhesion Promoter (CP 199).. I can't get through to Holts because I don't think they're open on the weekends. If your in Vic, where did you find it?? I've called autobarn, repco, supercheap, auto one, bursons (not open), bunnings and mitre 10.. with nothing. Some have the paints, but none have the adhesion promoter that is reccommended by the paints. How stupid is that?
  20. foznice

    Deca Review

    your all back so early? What happened to sleeping in on Sunday morning!!
  21. is this guy a dealer? Alot of dealers seem to have their cars in bright colours with fresh paint jobs and kits ect ect.. I have a feeling that they like to bring in damaged cars and then fix them up cheaply. So I would be very cautious. Don't get sold on the price, take it for a proper mechanical inspection at the least.
  22. cheers Chris. So what paint do you reccomend exactly?.. surely not VHT............................
  23. I want to paint my calipers black, with the nissan writing in white, grey or just sand them back down to metal. I'm trying to go with what Mark's done, and have a neat, stock-not-over-the-top look, The only problem is, there is no METALCAST in black. I was thinking of getting the primer (this is the shiny bit isn't it?) and then finding some kind of black paint to go over top.. or will the black paint just block it out... what do you guys think?
  24. I don't know what the r35 is supposed to be.. Ah well I'm off to bed too. Nighty night.
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