Alf

740cc will be fine

If you get the chance could you take a pic, would like to see how much extra clearance you need.

Does anyone know if you can use the High energy 7L sump and still retain the factory stone guard in a 32 GTST? Also noticed that the drain plug is on the opposite side to factory. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=140593

Long motor includes bottom end and head and all internal parts but no accessories. short motor is same as above minus the head, includes internal parts inside the block and sump. It's obvious what you need for the det conversion.

Turbo n stone guard sold to me

Not factory but if u got lots of $$$

A Question for the guys in the GT35R 300-400rwkw club. What size throttlebody,Intercooler and piping do you use?

How much that set u back? H.E advertise these on their site for $1100 ish.

Yes it does work.

15's def dont fit. Will the std 32 gtst rims clear the 33 disc and caliper?

Castrol GTX is the choice for running in oil for many reputable workshops.

Got any easy Q for you guys. Can you make fit rb25det oil and water lines to the turbo fit onto a GT35R with a std exhaust manifold?

As R33-Racer said u would have to have really low comp to make it "free running" You would need serious bowl pistons or a lower top dead centre. To give you an idea, a stock RB30ET is in the 7s and is still an interference motor. To test it: remove your timing belt and crank the motor over by hand if it hits a valve you know the answer. keep trying this with turning the cams a few degrees and cranking it by hand, ull get the idea. Out of all the interference motors with broken belts that have come in through work only 1% have escaped the carnage. There is a very small chance that when the timing belt snaps that the cam/s will be in the right position so all the valves will be shut/ clear the pistons.

All the seals ie. sump, rear main, head gasket, oil pump etc... Make sure u clear the oil feed gallery for the turbo in the block as every na Rb30 I've seen has been blocked with sludge.

One word "Harmonics'

With a s1 R33 25det VVT head can the bulky inlet cam gear be changed to an Rb20 or adjustable one and still retain VVT? Reason being I'm trying to make it look like an RB20, ie cam covers, coil cover and timing belt cover.

My 25/30 is almost ready to crank over for the first time. I'm using: rb25 pfc 33 rb25det head with std cams with vvt Gt35R 0.86 Q45 maf and tb std injectors greddy plenum 9.2 comp (arias forgies) After some feedback on what changes were made in your setups/ pfc's so it was safe enough to run the engine in for the first time or drive to a tuner.

any updates?

Thats for GTST There are sets of 9.5's too

Someone got ripped. Can get these on ebay for $2200

Wiring in an alarm and not sure how the central locking is triggered and wheres the best place to find the wire/s. PS: For 32 GtST

You expect ppl to beleive it's new when there are obvious signs of use?

Had this clarified by DOT (QLD) The "RB20" isn't stamped on the block, it's part of the engine number but only to identify the series of motor and capacity.

Have a trivial Q for ya's. On my rego papers the RB20det engine number starts with an RB followed by 6 numbers then a letter. "RB" isn't stamped on the block tho. Whats the go?

Is there any noticeable difference to the VCT when using an N1 oil pump with the 33 vct head?