Alf

Obviously not from commodorenut.

A VL crossmember will only fit into models up to and including VS. I hope the commodore forums dont spot the above comment, it will make this forum look nearly as bad as theirs. Holden dropped a V6 buick in a late VL for testing purposes for the VN, an RB25det was never on the books.

I havent seen an S12 look that good before. PS: The paint needs a bit more blocking out with sand paper as its easy to spot the orange peel.

Thats right.

Thanks for that Cubes. I've been looking at the cometic and ACL race series MLS gaskets, Prices ive got ranged from 210-350 for an RB30 MLS headgasket. Its not really an issue with a 33 25 VVT head that I've seen but there is a 1-2mm of sealing on a particular spot on the front right water jacket. That is when you use a 30 block. Just to be on the safe side I tigged the water jacket and VVT gallery up in the head and shaped it to suit the water gallery in the 30 block. Theres a min. 5-6mm of sealing now. It was a better option that trying to braze weld brass to the side of the block like in this pic. http://www.users.bigpond.com/twinvl/blockmod2.jpg

Are there any differences in the 26 and 30 headgaskets? I have a VVT 25 head thats had the front right water jacket and oil gallery welded up and the water gallery shaped to suit the 30 block. There appears to be more thicknesses available for off the shelf MLS headgaskets for the 26.

Does anyone know what Sard injectors 650,800,850cc etc for an rb25 that are twin or quad squirters. Searching the net comes up with zip. Cheers.

If anyone is building a 30det without rebuilding it, if its an NA block ie series 2 make sure the turbo feed gallery is cleared of sludge build up.

I'm after some feedback on Multi layered steel and oringed/copper head gaskets. The engine in question is a 25/30 that will receive anything up to 25 PSI. 1. What are the advantages/disadvantages of each? 2. Do copper head gaskets have problems sealing water jackets? 3. Whats the difference in price? PS: The 30det is ready for assembly (aiming for 8.6:1 comp, using head studs)

Does anyone know of a machine shop capable of Oringing an RB in syd, preferbly on the Northshore. None of the local ones in my area do. Thanks.

Has anyone here used a JUN oil pump collar on an RB30 crank? It came with 2 grub screws and instructions, in Japanese of coz is anyone able to translate? I'm aware machining is required but are only 2 grub screws going to be safe? Pics attatched.

I'm after a complete RB25DET gearbox that has been damaged internally, what internal damage I'm not concerned about but I do need a RB25DET 5 spd box that is complete. Preferbly located in the Sydney or Brisbane area.

There seems to be conflicting information on this forum. Some say S2's have the igniter in the ecu when others say the igniter is in the coils. I know that the coil packs are different for each series and have difference connections.

Do the R33 25DET S1 and S2's use the same factory ECU? Searching the net I cant seem to find specific Power FC's for each series, or does one suit all? Cheers.

I have a R33 GTR box thats in good working order. I know its easier to mod the transfer case but I'd prefer to do it the harder way if it means less weight and the shifter in the right location, rebuilding gearboxes isnt a problem. Has anyone done/see it done before ie 25det box with 4wd internals ? Motor is a 30det in a 32 gtst

At what point/power level would you guys change from a single plate to twin plate? Considering it to will be drivin on the street and occasional track outings.

I'm about to buy a second hand twin plate clutch for the RB30DET, but before I do I want to know if replacement parts (driven plates etc..) are easy to source and what brands are easier to get hold of. I'm looking at an OS gilken, HKS or exedy twin plater. Has anyone had to replace parts in their twin plate before?

The RB30 block would be under more stress if used in 4WD, so it would be limited more than the 26 block. RB30's have been proven on the strip and the track to be just as reliable in 2WD. There are several VL RB30ET's on street tyres that are in the same league as the quickest skylines on street tyres. Alot of people here tend to ignore the VLT's simply because they are commodores and are not as sophisticated. IF you were to build a 2WD street car there's no reason why you wouldn't choose a RB30 unless you like lots of lag. I finally got to drive a RB30det today, there is no way i could go back to a RB25DET or even a RB26DETT. The low down torque is simply amazing..:whackit:

This topic has been covered many times. There is this thing called a "search" on the menu bar, it looks like this (circled in red):

Got that sorted last week It covers from 1979 and onwards.

Thats a rather unusual plenom you have there. Where did u get it from or was it custom made?

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/sh...=1#Post67954944 :kick:

I get the drift. The motor and box are definitely staying in my possession whether it's in a 33 or not.

How light is each one? but wouldn't a heavier balancer be better?