Alf

You still don't quite understand. The blower used on the toyotas are whipple style blower. If you havent pulled both apart then trying doing that before replying. If you cannot comprehend i'll show you the blowers in person. Ps: You could put the motor into a better car tho.

I used to own a sc14 blower (not on an RB that's wrong) The bearings went in it coz I pushed it past 11psi. Have you had the internals ceramic coated? coz going past 11psi with these things generate so much heat they melt the teflon coated internals. Please read the previous 93 pages, you have not mentioned about this but others have. It's worth reading everypage and saves the frustration of having to explain it all over again. I know who you are and I know you mean well but 400rwhp is asking too much from that blower that's suited to a 2L. Have a look at the link for a larger version of this blower. http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_pro...sc/sc_siyou.htm Sure, you can up the psi but doubt it's guna last you long. PS: read the last 93 pages, you'll get a better idea then. Keep the insults etc.. out this thread it's not needed here.

You should know you own one. If you read back through the 93 pages you'll find that supercharging the rb has been covered.

They came on the 2L 6 cyl soarers.

I hope ur not using one of those toyota whipple blowers. :Bang:

No offence dude but it's not that big. It helps to know what ur actually selling before posting otherwise ur wasting everyones time. :kick: Specs would be good.

I've always changed the studs when i've changed the belt. It's cheap insurance. :flamed:

Go for an na block as the comp will be more suitable for more low down torque. But if you do find a turbo block change the pistons to na ones to get a decent comp. It's easier to find an na block with the oil n water lines tapped like in na s2's.

hrmm interesting.... I have a s1 motor and loom and recently purchased splitfire s2 coils. The coil plugs on the s1 loom dont fit onto the s2 coils so i need to use s2 plugs instead. I also need to remove the ignitor (black box at the back) and wire the wires into the coil loom.

Are you using all the factory sensors for that engine?.

10L is a fair bit to hold in a sump, It wouldn't be cheap with regular oil changes. Is 5-6L enough for a n1 oil pump (rb30det) ??? I don't want to be spending shit loads on syn oil when it gets changed at 5000-8000kms intervals.

I see your point. So the doors open towards the centre of the sump/pickup?. When turning left, the oil moves to the right keeping the right door shut and opening the left door allowing more oil in? Or have i got it wrong?. :Bang:

Cheers Sydneykid, some useful info there. I'm looking at modifying the rb30 sump to increase its capacity and with a baffle etc.. Metal fab isnt a prob for me. The sump below i think is made by RIPS. Does the design look right?.

No never rev it till it's reached operating temp. But hey if you do and u blow the motor which u will, I can find u a buyer who will take it off ur hands for cheap. PS: I bought my gtst off a p plater who did exactly that, I snapped it up for real cheap

When installing a bigger return line how much bigger should it be? ie same as the supply line?

Go ahead with the 5 stud conversion if the turbo isnt coming for sometime. When u change it to 5 studs make sure u keep everything so u can change it back to 4 stud when you sell it, that way not all is lost in ur efforts and $. Would recommend selling the gts and buying a t alot less hassles.

I agree with Shane. keep your rego as it is, including your license. Don't worry too much about the RWC coz Qld's laws are alot easier than Vic esp. if you have mods. True, but the cost of the parts is significantly higher than most local cars. A good example is coils :bs!:, plus the further you go north the more expensive they are ie freight.

Yep it's a kit includes rings,clips and pins. The pistons are 8601 forged. The kit suits both 26 and 25 head, the pistons are different from na and turbo Rb30 pistons as seen in the pic.

The 26 ARP head stud kit (25 head) arrived today. :headspin: To double check everything I tried fitting a stud to the block and head. Like others have mentioned in the past, the block needs to be drilled and tapped for the thickers studs. The 25 head holes also need to be made bigger. I'm not sure on the torque settings for the head studs. On the back of the ARP box is a listing of torque settings - see attatched pics PS: It also has this written on the box > "The torque values represented here are intended to be for general information. Not for specific installations!"

I recently bought a set of these pistons. Pics n details are here from a previous post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&postcount=2227 The Arias specs sheet and the factory VL manual specs seems to be different. Using a stock rb30 na head gasket and stock 25 head it's spose to make 8.6:1 but there are many variables that can change it slightly, eg skimmed head. But to be sure to get the right comp its best to have your engine measured for a more accurate comp. ----------------------------------------------- What psi does a standard 9:1 rb25det produce when doing a compression test. Would this be the same for a 9:1 rb30det?.

Another way to spot variable valve timing without removing anything. The solenoid sticks out of the head below the fuel pres. reg. You can identify a s2 motor by its build date. The underside of the coil cover (this is 10/94 =s1) The front of the head, with the timing gear removed (again 10/94 = s1) Hope this helps

Only series 1 na had the coolant and oil outlets blocked off. Series 1 turbo, series 2 na and turbo had the tapped holes. (S2 na had bolts blocking them off) If you look under the engine number there is either a 6 or an 8. 6 = na 8 = turbo This applies for all VL rb30's. All R31's have the holes tapped

Only series 1 na had the coolant and oil outlets blocked off. Series 1 turbo, series 2 na and turbo had the tapped holes. (S2 na had bolts blocking them off) If you look under the engine number there is either a 6 or an 8. 6 = na 8 = turbo This applies for all VL rb30's.

LOL You just keep telling everyone u do that. Idiot! :headbang:

Your not getting it, more power = more dollars. and u thought u were trying to do things cheap. :bs!: