Alf

Bov sold, What you see above is what I have for sale.

Location: Newmarket, Brisbane. All pics are here: http://1drv.ms/1fW8hcO Can post some items. R32 coupe door glass LH and RH, $15 each PICKUP only R32 GTST Standard airbox $20 R32 front guards. All panels straight and rust free. LH (gold-suit repainting) $25 & 2xRH (1xgold-suit repainting) $25, (1xgunmetal grey one large scratch) $45. Pick up only. R32 GTST rear bar (needs repainting), reo, reverse lights and number plate lights. $60 Pick up only R32 GTST door cards LH & RH $15 each Pick up only R32 coupe 2 x driver side window/mirror switch. $20 each R32 coupe Passenger side window switch $5. R32 climate control/aircon control box $10 R32 GTST gauge surround with switches shown in pic. $20 R32 assorted switches including clockspring and indicator stalk. $20 for the set shown in pic. R32 radiator and fan shroud. Not sure if radiator leaks but looks ok. $20 for both. Pickup only. R32 standard front strut brace $15 Pickup only. R32 GTST type M side skirts, includes rear quarter skirts. Needs repainting, RH skirt has minor damage but hardly recogniseable when on the car. $40 for the set. Pickup only. R32/R33 rear hicas lockbar $10. R32 projector headlights RH and LH, $40 each. R32 GTST clear aftermarket indicators, one of the tabs is broken but can easily be secured with zip ties. Sell as pair $40 R32 coupe rear taillights (needs repainting) $50 pair. R32 coupe boot seal in excellent condition $5 R32 manual centre console surround, manual boot needs replacing. $15. R32 blower motor fan $10 R32 coupe window motor assembly 1x LH & 2xRH. $10 each R32 handbrake lever. $10. R33 GTST rear Ohlins shocks and springs. Height adjustable (circlip) and damper adjustable, In good working order, no leaks. $50 set PICK UP ONLY. R33 RB25DET Series 1 camshafts (set) $30 R33 RB25DET Series 1 factory coils, set of 6. $50 HKS mushroom pod filter suit RB. $15 Turbosmart Vee Port atmo bov. Bolt on for RB20/25 $20 Will consider straight swaps for: Unmarked top half R33 dash. Full R33 boot interior.

Can the ign barrel in 33s be removed/installed without causing any damage?

They need to be pressed off the shaft

I have tried using a stock afm and making the neccessary adjustments in the ecu without luck. Also tried the Link ecu (with 2.5bar map sensor) and the result is still the same When it was running I had tried every method of adjusting the idle, it did lower/increase the idle but still not smooth, its also the case with the LINK with it's map sensor which led me to the pushrod in the throttle body may be the problem. There was never an issue with tuning the motor, it was just the idle then. However it doesnt explain how the ignition system is NOW not firing right.

The idle would jump between 1000rpm & 1300rpm. It had a run in tune done by an experienced tuner in Brisbane and did 2000ks then a mild tune by the same guy for the next 3000ks.

Std Rb25 ignition system and std coils. Also have splitfires and hasnt made a difference. I'll double check the wiring from the coils to the igniter to the ecu. Before this problem occured , it started first go and went hard.... it did have a high ilde so I did this http://www.skylineow...ad.php?t=161490 and this is when the problem started. I put the TB back to the way it was and still had no luck.

Backfire on accel and decell. Opening the throttle makes no instant change to revs, you need to open the throttle then crank it and feather the throttle to keep it going. It's no different when cold or warm. When I'm lucky it will idle but at low revs ie 400rpm and struggles to keep going. It's been months since it's been driveable as it coughs and splutters and dumps plumes of unburnt fuel out the exhaust. Today I cleaned up the plugs and checked the timing against the PFC hand controller and the timing on the gun matches the timing on the PFC.

The motor is a RB30/25 that is less than 5000ks old and in a 32 GTST R33 RB25DET S1 head PFC for the above head std cams std injectors CPC plenum with Q45 TB Q45 AFM GT35R 0.82 approx 9:1 comp R33 RB25DET S1 loom modified to suit R32 Using 2 tensioner setup with gates belt The following has checked out ok... Comp test (175psi cold) Leak down test (less than 5%) All timing components triple checked head removed and rebuilt, nothing visually wrong injectors cleaned and working tried CAS, coils, igniter, TPS from working motor tried PFC in a stock R33 with factory settings (works fine) Tried stock R33 RB25DET ecu (with stock AFM) and the problems continues gapped plugs to 0.8, 0.7 0.6, also tried BKR7E and BCPR7ES Fuel pressure is fine at 320 kpa new battery & all earths checked Tried a PnP Link G4 ecu removed TB and see nothing visually wrong inside plenum Turbo, manifold and exhaust checked, no blockages Get spark at all coils ( turn cas with ign on) changed fuel (98) changed fuel pump Changed fuel filter Cleaned out fuel lines removed alarm disconnected wideband and thermos Adjusted cas and TPS Wiring to Q45 afm checked and replaced cams dialed in and checked with dial gauge Every wire in the engine loom checked This has been going on for over a year now and have not been able to drive it. It backfires through exhaust and intake, it seems like the timing is out but the mechanical timing is spot on and the timing light shows its firing approx 15-20 deg at 1000rpm. The PFC shows that the ign timing doesnt move from 2-3deg. I have tried making adjustments in datalogit and in the Link software without any luck. I'm on the central coast NSW, have consulted with the local gurus and they are stumped... Any suggestions are appreciated as I spent over 20K on the motor and wont be letting it go.

At 378rwkw I have no lag with a GT35R .82

The head bolts on but you can weld up/ block the VVT oil feed and shape the water gallery next to it and shape it to suit the rb30 water jacket. If you dont then there is approx 1mm of sealing area around that water jacket. Go the 35R, the difference in price is nothing for the extra increase in power, you will be wanting more when u max out the 3037

Blocked rear feed, no restrictor in the front,running VVT, N1 pump with JPC billet gears.

I have a HKS GD Pro twin plate (push type), some resellers of the nismo big bore (13/16) slave cylinder say that its not suitable for twin plate clutches. Can anyone confirm?

Does anyone know the thread size of the std 32 GTR slave cylinder? I'm referring to the thread where the flexible hose joins the slave cylinder.

What size exhaust?

What have people done about the connections?

Does anyone know if the RB30 non turbo starter motor will fit an RB20?

There are 2 wires on the expansion connector that I cant seem to find in the PCLink software -Temp 4 -orange wire -Volt 8 -White wire I assume these are analogue channels just like Volt 2 and temp 3 Any ideas?

I go through a pair of tyres every 2 weeks min. and thats not even baking the tyres on the spot or dumping the clutch. 30 + 25 head + GT3582R

+1 lowered mine 10mm, clears the bonnet.

+1

What ratio, non ABS?

What ratio and is it short nose?

Still available? also is it non ABS?

I've been using a QTP 3.5" valve in my 32 for over a year without any problems. Makes a big difference in noise reduction and has been handy in the presence of the fuzz and stops the neighbours from whinging.