Alf

It seems to work well setup like this in another forum http://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47 Just my 2c's

What boost levels do you recommend for the first 1/2 hr for a 9.0 comp motor? (GT3582R)

Where did you get the honey comb from?

What did you use to secure the afm to the pipe?

People were doing it before drift was around, back then it was called rallying on tarmac. People were doing it to their toranas and Falcons when they were newish.

Were any pics taken of the problem?

Al, what Spoolup says is right. When I worked in the industry the machinists always insisted on using the main caps/girdle that came with the engine and the crank if it wasn't stuffed. It saves alot of time and $.

Has anyone fitted a high energy HE2112 VL 3.0L Commodore Super Pan $458.53* into a 32 without having to use a custom made front sway bar? http://highenergy.com.au/index.php?module=...5539231984-1177 A few pages back, Al had problems with his HE8124 Pro-Circuit 3.0 VL/Nissan, 4 Gates, 7L, P/Up clearing the sway bar.

I second that. I'm using the arias 9.2 comp pistons, after cc'ing the head, the bowls were smaller than standard (the head had been faced more than once before it was in my hands). With a std thickness head gasket comp would be close to 9.4 so I've got to stuff around finding a thicker head gasket to get it down to 9.0ish. I only intend using 1 bar on pump fuel and winding it up on race fuel. While on the topic, what brand is the best bang for $ race fuel?

After ppl's thoughts on running a 4 inch dump pipe (using a 4-3.5 reducer at the turbo) reduced to 3.5" later for a GT3582R on a 25/30, is it worth the effort?

Do one or more of the following. CC the bowls, deck the block, skim the head, use the right thickness head gasket. Using forged pistons?

The con rod bearings need to be chamfered coz they were too wide being for a small block chev, if your using everything std RB30 you wont need to worry about it. Its hard to say from the pictures of the bores, you'd need to clean up the surface rust and run your finger across that area to see if their are any ridges at the top of the bore if so then it may need boring. Cubes has the right idea. Personally if i was guna use a std bottom end I would do the bearings and rings, you could use your current short motor as an exchange for a rebuilt one. Getting your desired CR would be a matter of skimming the head and using the appropriate thickness head gasket. That would be the cheapest way to go.

This might help you. This is what I paid for labour (staff price) Acid dip (free) Bore and hone $170 (suit 20tho forgies) Grind and linish journals $165 Drill and tap block for head studs (rb26) $300 Machine con rod bearings $55 (using 327 SB std ACL bearings as race series isn't listed for the 327, the bearings needed to be chamfered down to fit.) Surface head $45 Balance $140 (new rods,forgies, crank, twin plate clutch and flywheel, rb30 HB) Machine crank for adaptor $120 Freight $38 (sent away for balancing) Enviro levy $40. Total: $1033 I'm using 327 SB SCAT H beam rods mod'd to fit and wanted a few extra things like Rb26 head studs that added to the cost of labour. I'm using ACL race series mains $60 and std ACL 327 con rod bearings $51. I'm using a GT3582R and aiming for 350-370rwkw

That was not an opinion, its a fact. If you worked in the engine building industry you would know that.

A short motor is just the bottom end. A long motor is the bottom end and head, no accessories.

Unique auto sports sell identical ones, they could be the middle man tho. http://www.300zx.com.au/pricelists/priceli...er32styling.htm

I'm thinking of painting mine black too :laughing-smiley-014:

Im curious about the headlights in the pic below, does anyone know who makes these or these are a one of a kind.

For those who don't have the 91 & 92 footage on their pc. http://www.crystalnode.net/bathurstvideos/...hurst91divx.avi http://www.crystalnode.net/bathurstvideos/...hurst92divx.avi approx 650 mb each

Ahem

A GT35R wont last long with that power. Or you'll go bankrupt from the cost of race fuel.

Is the tailshaft you had advertised for $150 still available and would you post it?