James_03

I should have probably been more specific, I'm running a bead hone through just to take some of the light surface rust off. The flex hone tools are specifically for de-glazing, which is just why I said that. It was run in correctly with proper run in oil and varying revs. I dare say I would have had significant blow by had they not have been, for which it had zero when it was running and made really good power. Literally the only thing that failed was the thrust. Cheers anyway Kiwi. I found the ring packs for $50 each, so I'm going to check all the clearances and chuck new rings on again anyway. What's $300 on one of these engines, I just can't see how they will seal properly again in my mind if I try and re-use the old rings after flex honing it.

Hey guys, Replacing the crank in my 26/30 currently. Some of the bores have very light surface rust. I want to run a bean hone through the bores to clean them up, question is do I need to replace rings when doing this also? The current piston/ring setup has less than 1000k's on it. The CP ring packs are like $150 each, ill do it if necessary but I'm just not sure. Will de-glazing the bore with a bead honer effect how the current rings have bed? Cheers.

What power are you doing with the walbros donut_kng? Yep absolutely agree that fail safe can be setup for drop in pressure, which ill likely being doing with the link anyway regardless of which way I go. I have found totally conflicting info on some pumps. For eg, I looked up the proflow 044 alternate pump today, and one site said yep 100% e85 safe, the other was like, will decrease pump life by running e85. To be honest I think there is some trickery with words getting around for e85 compatibility, if your pump can run e85 initially and it only last 6 months, does that still classify it as e85 compatible?. For me as far as I am concerned the 044 pumps are not e85 safe, despite what people may say about them. How have the walbros been in that respect donut_kng? I know those are rated as e85 safe.

Big fuel pump choice with e85 Hi guys, Basically I wanted to get some opinions about what fuel pump setup people are running for big power with e85, and namely what big single pumps people might be running. Basically 044 pumps, from what I have found, eventually sh1t the bed. Adding e85 additive helps, but only prolongs the inevitable I believe. Basically had fuel pressure nose diving yesterday on the dyno, and I am fairly sure the 044's I have are not happy. One was actually seized at one point until it was tapped with a spanner, then came good again. I don't want to have to hit fuel pumps with spanners to get them going again, when they are feeding a motor with almost 20K into it. I currently have 2x 044 feeding into a dash 10 line moving forward from boot/surge to engine bay, pumps would be almost 4 years old now I suppose. I looked at the new Proflow FS11380, which is like an 044 alternative and seems to have a bit more flow (have to figure out the trickery again with @ XYZ bar, so might actually just flow the same as an 044 at 72psi), and again, on one website I read may decrease pump life if used with exotic fuels ie e85. So I am looking a single 2345-A weldon pump: http://www.weldonracing.com/store/2345-A-p56104058 Main reasons are: 1. Will modify reasonably OK into my existing surge setup, just need a dash 12 feed welded onto existing tank 2. Won't grenade the motor if I lose the pump, as oppose to losing 1 pump on a twin 044 setup 3. All race fuels compatible from what I read 4. Can be rebuilt So before I shell out $1500+ to get this over from the states, what are other people doing in this space? I'm keen to know. Cheers.

Thanks for that Kiwi appreciate it.

Dual Tial wastegates and spring choice with MAC Hey guys, So I recently switched to a 6 boost high mount running dual tial MVS 38mm wastegates. This will be my first time running this type of setup, target boost pressure will be 30, but possibly 35 psi. Both will be controlled by a MAC valve going back to a Wolf v550. Engine is a built 26/30 with borg warner 9180 turbo. I have setup the springs in both gates for 23psi, with the idea that the mac valve can do the rest to 30. Can someone tell me if that's going to be OK? Some people have told me that running 23 might be an issue when time to tune, is this correct? Cheers.

Yeh settle down cob. I read what you said and I will call someone, it's just I wanted to call up with a part number.

Yeh that's the thing man, only 8.5 CR is listed on the CP catalogue. I can't actually find a part number for a 9:1 piston anywhere.

Where to buy rb30det 9:1 pistons? Gents, I am chasing some forged pistons for a 26/30 build in 9.5.1 or 9.1 comp in 20 thou over. Can anyone tell me where I can source these apart from spool? He is away at the moment and I would like to order this week. I read another thread where someone gave Arias part numbers AP332104 and AP332105. I cannot for the life of me find any hits on these part numbers anywhere. I am aware that spool does CP and Ross in a 9:1 comp, but is anyone else doing them in those comp ratios? Surely he's not the only one in OZ stocking higher comp rb30det pistons. Fleabay is swimming with 8.5.1 sets, which I care not for. Cheers.

After a set of -12 for 26, can't PM you but mate, inbox might be full.

gtr sump remove axle tube Hey guys, I picked up another r32 gtr sump the other day with hi octane sump. The axle tube that runs through the sump for the front wheels has been damaged (has a hole in it, and you can see the axle moving inside if you rotate it). Does anyone know if the axle tube running through the sump can be removed? Looks like it might just be a press fit, have seen a few rwd sumps on the net with it missing, so I assume you can. I want to swap the tube over with my existing sump. Cheers.

Hey Guys, Can anyone confirm if z32 fs5w30a transmission internal parts can be installed completely into r32 GTR casing? The z32 rear section of the box uses a remote shifter, but I am assuming that once the rear and front section of the GTR box is installed, it should be all good? Reason I am doing this is I can get a hold of a cheap z32 box with OS giken 1-3 gearset. I have confirmed the gearset/ratios are the same for 26. Cheers.

.

Replied.

Hey Guys, Got a set of splitfire coilpacks to suit rb26. Will also go on rb20's and S1 rb25's. Come complete with brackets. Location Brisbane. $280

That's interesting, as the majority of the cost to go the Naprec valves was due to having to replace the seats when I spoke to my cylinder head guys. Where did you source the Nitto valves from Bigmikespec? I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere online. Definitely going to go 1mm OS now, just tossing up between Nitto or Supertech. Can't really afford the Ferrea kit, it's nice, but it's a little too much of a stretch once I factor in labour costs as well. Thanks to Piggaz and Bigmikespec for the input, appreciate it.

Some good info there Piggaz appreciate it, especially about the valve springs. Not too sure how I didn't see float before 25psi if that's the case. I bought the head from Japan already ported, so yeh it has in and ex already ported. I had a guy look over it at a cylinder head place, and he seemed to believe that whoever did it, did a pretty good job of it. Had bronze guides in it when I got it, all the guides on ex side where flogged out. I put this down to the standard exhaust valves absorbing more heat through the valve stem itself over other aftermarket valves. This was another reasons I was thinking of going valves/new bronze guides. The replacement guides that they fitted where non bronze type, just some they had made up to fit.

Yeh I did read about supertech doing parts for Tomei. I read a post by fitzpatrick speedworks about the trumpet angle on the Ferrea valves being a lot better then standard 16 degrees vs 20 on Ferrea. I'm just trying to justify if it's even worth doing the valves when I have the head off. It made 620hp @ all 4 on 25psi on e85 last time it was tuned (26/30). This time going back I am chasing 30-35. The head currently has grex 272 cams (10 lift intake, 10.5 exhaust) and HKS step 2 springs I believe, and some unknown porting from Japan on both in and ex. I was going to change over to supertech dual valve springs, as I am unsure if the single HKS step 2 springs are up to the task of that much boost, and I thought I would look at valves while I am at it. I have searched up and down the forums to try and see what standard valves are good for in terms of HP. From what I head read on other forums, the port job has a lot to do with the end result also, according to a post on Peformance Forums. What's your opinion bigmikespec? I was quoted roughly 2k in labour and parts to fit the larger valves, which is quite an outlay given I don't really know if it's justified. Should I look at doing valves, or just springs, or neither? I was also considering running a larger duration/lift cam on the ex side too. What's everyone's thoughts? Cheers.

Hey guys, Thinking of running these shortly: http://www.rhdjapan.com/naprec-forged-big-valves-set-rb26dett.html Trying to get info on what I will need to order parts wise to run them. I know they are 6mm exhaust guides instead of the 7mm, was just going to pick these up with the valves: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supertech-6mm-Exhaust-Valve-Guide-24-pcs-Nissan-GT-R-RB26-RB26DETT-/301266390742 Anything else I am missing?

Awesome cheers guys. Looks like I will import the WGNC34 box then.

Hey Guys, I am trying to hunt down a series 3 r33 gtr gearbox from 1997 up so I can fit an OS gearset. I have been looking on yahoo JP for a suitable box to import. Can someone tell me if the 5spd gearbox used in the WGNC34 stagea is essentially a series 3 GTR box? Attached is 2 pictures, note the WGNC34 box has a slightly different bell housing casting? Is it still a FS5R30A box? I would prefer to import the WGNC34 box if I can, as being a 2000 model I'm hoping it may come in better condition. GTR Series 3 1997 Box: WGNC34 Box: Cheers.

Anyone?

Hey Guys, After a 32/33 gearbox that will take a little bit more power, chasing anything with an aftermarket gearset inside like OS, Route6, etc. Please let me know if you have something for sale. Cheers.

I was concerned that the block face may have been out slightly, as I wasn't sure the washers would be the fix at the time, hence I decided to go composite thinking I would have better success that way if the block was out . That and other people have reported pretty good success with them after only doing ARP studs on standard NEO's and the like, similar boost to what I am running. I suppose time will tell if that was a bad decision, I did work it hard at both track days but with only about 5 mins rest time at each event.

Thought I would report back guys in-case this help anyone else out. I ended up running dual washers, standard 26 washers plus the ARP washers. Standard OEM 26 head gasket, and went another 15 ft/lb over on the torque. So far it's done 2 track days and a few runs here and there, no signs of pushing coolant and comp/leak down test done the other day was all good. Holding about 26psi fine. Big thanks to all those that commented, and especially those that hinted about the dual washers. Cheers.